IH Handbrake 574, 84, 85 etc Series

KiwiEd

Member
Location
New Zealand
I had posted this on another forum but because I've joined here thought I would transfer it here too.

Had a go at doing our 574 handbrake through the side. Read up what I could find on the net, so thought I would do some notes for next time and maybe help someone else.
Quite a bit of what I figured out was trial and error and learned the hard way. Please add anything you think would help. It wasn't easy and you need patience.
I did read somewhere you can cut the actuator rod to help removal but these are no longer available and you would have to get one from a Wrecker.




IH Handbrake Band 574, 84, 85 etc. Series

Replacing handbrake (HB) band through side PTO clutch cover plate.
Remove RH wheel and step.
Drain oil from middle and rear drain bungs.
Remove cover plate drive out pin, pull 1000 PTO shaft out back and remove clutch pack.
Slacken HB cable off.
Remove PTO actuator clevis.
Try to bend tails of top cotter pin towards straight with fingers. Small screwdriver held in fingers may help. If you need to hold clevis pin from rotating pull HB on. If you can’t rotate it (it has spring pressure on it) remove clevis pin on outside to disconnect cable, unbolt HB pivot and jack out bottom of pivot about 5mm. This will make top clevis pin free, to rotate, to remove and install (take spring pressure off pin). Then rotate clevis pin so head of cotter pin is facing to the right, maybe pointing up a bit and push it as far right as it will go. Then put a probe (dentists tool is good) through head and pull out then remove clevis pin.

Main pivot pin - remove this second. To remove cotter pin straighten tails with a big long screwdriver then pull out with hooked piece of wire. Remove pivot pin.
Remove actuator rod out of pivot and remove pivot and spring.
Rotate band clockwise and forward, knock out pin to split, pull over shaft then out hole.
Don’t move the HB drum forward on shaft – no purpose in doing this – you can’t get your left hand up to work on top pin.
Give drum a bit of a sand up.

Assembly
Use a longer cotter pin on the top pin. I put a 5mm long piece of heat shrink up by head to make it easier to get something through hole for removal. Longer pin also makes it easier to spread tails. You can work out what you are going to do on the bench. Wouldn’t risk using a R clip.
Sit pivot in place, then put main pivot pin in first, then spring, then actuator rod. By jacking out bottom of pivot you can get top clevis pin in easily, then if you need to hold it from rotating you can attach HB cable so you can spread cotter pin a little bit with fingers etc.

The band fitted was a Vapromatic one. It had a grey lining material on it. The Sparex one was the same.
Seems to hold the tractor excellent even though the one removed the lining wasn't worn out and it hadn't run out of adjustment.
They must be used as a PARK BRAKE not a HAND BRAKE. Anytime the tractor is moved with it on it will deteriorate. We have fitted an extra LED light with a flasher unit, also have a 585 - it has the factory extra flashing lights.
 

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HSENI names new farm safety champions

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Written by William Kellett from Agriland

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The Health and Safety Executive for Northern Ireland (HSENI) alongside the Farm Safety Partnership (FSP), has named new farm safety champions and commended the outstanding work on farm safety that has been carried out in the farming community in the last 20 years.

Two of these champions are Malcom Downey, retired principal inspector for the Agri/Food team in HSENI and Harry Sinclair, current chair of the Farm Safety Partnership and former president of the Ulster Farmers’ Union (UFU).

Improving farm safety is the key aim of HSENI’s and the FSP’s work and...
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