- Location
- Montgomeryshire
Impossible grease nipples
- Thread starter snarling bee
- Start date
Ali_Maxxum
Member
- Location
- Chepstow, Wales
The shorter drive shaft in the middle of CNH Maxxum/T6 tractors (not sure on Puma/T7) There's a cut out hole of the cast guard, but by Christ, what a bloody performance to get it to line up! Even worse cos you have to keep getting underneath, and I'm not particularly keen on being under there while someone moves it, you only have to move a couple of inches for it to do half a turn.
Another is the left hand trumpet housing, the bloody big guard for the air tank, you have to do it by feel and attempt a contortionist act as well as pull your arm out of it's socket while pulling all your bloody muscles as well. If you manage to do it and not draw blood you've done well....
We've got G-couplers on our grease guns but they still need holding/forcing on with some.
The top pins for the rams on a Lynx Zuidberg front linkage, up and under the front casting, another one by feel, not just to find the nipple, but you have to hold the end of the coupler to make sure it's not shyting out the side while you pump.
Same with the bottom ones where the pins are for the bottom of the rams that attach to the linkage arms casting, you have to lower them just a little for them to start pivoting away, (and then you have to take a particular route because the accumulator gets in the way) but not too much because they start disappearing at too much of an angle, can't do them when theyr're right up because there's no room to get the end of the gun in there as they're too tight against the cylinder. Saw the same at a show and they were facing the other way (at the front) so they've simply been put on back to front, I've got the knack now so I can't be bothered to turn them round.
The ones for the roller on our Maschio flail, the nipples are meant to line up with the holes that are for the other positions for the bolts for the roller (I assume), they do, but not quite, certainly not straight on, I actually have to go back to a standard fitting on the gun cos you can't get the G-coupler to close up.
The one end of the ram for the first arm on our trimmer you have to take the whole 6ft guard off. The one for the telescopic ram is facing inwards with about a 1 inch gap below it, can't turn the cylinder as the pipes won't allow, same for the rock spike ram on our Protech knocker.
I'm sure the UJ on the slip clutch end on our tedder is a complete bitch to do as well.
Fair play to anyone that reads all of this, I'm sure plenty feel my pain and have some that are worse. I am very on top of our greasing, though.
Another is the left hand trumpet housing, the bloody big guard for the air tank, you have to do it by feel and attempt a contortionist act as well as pull your arm out of it's socket while pulling all your bloody muscles as well. If you manage to do it and not draw blood you've done well....
We've got G-couplers on our grease guns but they still need holding/forcing on with some.
The top pins for the rams on a Lynx Zuidberg front linkage, up and under the front casting, another one by feel, not just to find the nipple, but you have to hold the end of the coupler to make sure it's not shyting out the side while you pump.
Same with the bottom ones where the pins are for the bottom of the rams that attach to the linkage arms casting, you have to lower them just a little for them to start pivoting away, (and then you have to take a particular route because the accumulator gets in the way) but not too much because they start disappearing at too much of an angle, can't do them when theyr're right up because there's no room to get the end of the gun in there as they're too tight against the cylinder. Saw the same at a show and they were facing the other way (at the front) so they've simply been put on back to front, I've got the knack now so I can't be bothered to turn them round.
The ones for the roller on our Maschio flail, the nipples are meant to line up with the holes that are for the other positions for the bolts for the roller (I assume), they do, but not quite, certainly not straight on, I actually have to go back to a standard fitting on the gun cos you can't get the G-coupler to close up.
The one end of the ram for the first arm on our trimmer you have to take the whole 6ft guard off. The one for the telescopic ram is facing inwards with about a 1 inch gap below it, can't turn the cylinder as the pipes won't allow, same for the rock spike ram on our Protech knocker.
I'm sure the UJ on the slip clutch end on our tedder is a complete bitch to do as well.
Fair play to anyone that reads all of this, I'm sure plenty feel my pain and have some that are worse. I am very on top of our greasing, though.
bought new Knight sprayer from Factory. went to factory and said " please make sure all the grease nipples work and grease actually gets to the pivots"
machine arrives,
all nipples 3mm under paint,
approximately 10 don't allow grease into the correct place.
(bangs head)
machine arrives,
all nipples 3mm under paint,
approximately 10 don't allow grease into the correct place.
(bangs head)
Gerbert
Member
- Location
- Dutch biblebelt
Upper nipple on the panhard rod of the tls frontaxle on JD 6010/6020 series. Not to bad though if I compare it to the ones mentioned.
I used to have a tedder that was a challenge to grease on the uj's between the elements. We bought a kuhn with finger couplings to end that.
I used to have a tedder that was a challenge to grease on the uj's between the elements. We bought a kuhn with finger couplings to end that.
Boohoo
Member
- Location
- Newtownabbey
Pick up bearings on a Fusion 3 are far from handy. Guards off then try to get one of the holes in the sprocket lined up with the nipple. There's one either side of the pick up and a G coupler doesn't fit
Johnny Deere
Member
I got bulk head fittings and put them on the panels on mine so the grease nipple is now attached to the panel
Lazy Sod
Member
- Location
- Warminster Wiltshire
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Lazy Sod
Member
- Location
- Warminster Wiltshire
2 on a topper pto shaft here, they are on the inside of the universal so you have to dismantle the guard every time to get at it.
Cut a hole in the guard in the appropriate place with a hole cutter for access.