Insulated Plasterboard For Non-Cavity Walls

[franklin]

Anyone used this as an alternative to making an inner skin with wooden lats, rolls of insultion and plasterboard?

Thought it looked quite good, but wont you get damp / condensation through the fixings? Or not, if the wall is half decent?

 

[carpenter1]

We did it on a damp north wall. It was 2ft thick solid stone wall, dot and dab the insulation plaster board on. No problems since.

 

[bobk]

Anyone used this as an alternative to making an inner skin with wooden lats, rolls of insultion and plasterboard?

Thought it looked quite good, but wont you get damp / condensation through the fixings? Or not, if the wall is half decent?

Is there a DPC ?

 

[suffolksmallholder]

My old Victorian farmhouse has 9" brick walls, damp as hell on the SW side because the rain just comes in.
Problem solved by this method;
Remove plaster if it's loose. Hang Tyvec to wall by any method. Overlapping by 150mm @ joins/red dotted line. Helped by silicone from your skeleton gun. Fix 50mm treated battens @ 400mm centers, using SS fixings into rawl-plugs (preferably brown ones) spaced @400mm centres. Corner battens need to be correctly spaced to allow fixings here. Try to work brick courses & not fix into mortar bed/perp joints Cut 50mm foil backed insulation board to fit in between battens. Sort ALL electrics/window reveals/door reveals at this time. You will have to think how you wish to present your reveals, be it in timber or plasterboard. Fit 35mm insulated plasterboard over the battens. Fit electrical boxes (plasterboard units) plaster. Fit skirting/architrave/electrical face plates. Paint.
Job done. House just so much warmer & no damp. Sorted.
There are some I did 35+ years ago, still fine. Don't let rodents get behind mind!
SS

 

[franklin]

This is for a small farm office in an old brick barn. No damp proofing at the bottom of the walls, and currently only an earth floor. Currently only three walls as the fouth is open for us to drive into to store stuff. So I have a wall to build; 3 to insulate; a floor to put in; etc. It needs to be dry to store farm paperwork / filing cabinets etc. And have somewhere to make a cup of tea.

*caveat* I have never done any building work before.

 

[bobk]

Without a damp course I wouldn't bother. it'll still be wet eventually.

 

[suffolksmallholder]

Yes, floor to put in. On a damp proof membrane & preferably on insulation. Then the walls. As I described if you want to. Else spec & get three quotes from builders then you'll have satisfaction it will be done correctly. 'Tinternet is your friend re specs here.
@Gator
SS

 

[franklin]

Without a damp course I wouldn't bother. it'll still be wet eventually.

It's not wet at the moment. I am really thinking more for keeping the place warm.

 

[Turra farmer]

It's not wet at the moment. I am really thinking more for keeping the place warm.

Will you be concreting floor , if so , lay 1200 gauge on floor and pin 600mm up walls , then concrete , drape a tyvex barrier from ceiling down the rear of plastic from floor , this will waterproof thr place from outside and let it breath from inside , use countersunk thunder bolts to fix sheets , 6 per sheet for 50mm overall thickness ,use packers at sheet edges to get a good joint for taping or plastering Not a particularly skilled job , just a sequence of simple events

 

[Hampton]

We did it on a damp north wall. It was 2ft thick solid stone wall, dot and dab the insulation plaster board on. No problems since.

Done something very similar in our dining room, although we didn't dab onto the stone.
I stripped everything back to the stone, then we concrete rendered the wall on the inside (including weathershield waterproofed in the render) let it dry, the used dab and insulated board.
Our house is a 2-400 year old sandstone building with 24" walls. We thought the concrete render would help damp issues (although it's not been a big problem previously) but also strengthen the walls, binding them together as the lime mortar is a bit flaky.

 

[jamesy]

+1 for dpm under floor & taken up the walls, that's the way it's done when renovating old buildings with no dpc.

 

[franklin]

+1 for dpm under floor & taken up the walls, that's the way it's done when renovating old buildings with no dpc.

Will you be concreting floor , if so , lay 1200 gauge on floor and pin 600mm up walls , then concrete , drape a tyvex barrier from ceiling down the rear of plastic from floor , this will waterproof thr place from outside and let it breath from inside , use countersunk thunder bolts to fix sheets , 6 per sheet for 50mm overall thickness ,use packers at sheet edges to get a good joint for taping or plastering Not a particularly skilled job , just a sequence of simple events

Yes, was expecting to clear out the existing dust floor and dig some footing for the new wall, then concrete through before laying a floor. Sounds like a plan.

 

[Turra farmer]

Yes, was expecting to clear out the existing dust floor and dig some footing for the new wall, then concrete through before laying a floor. Sounds like a plan.

Ye , just make sure tyvex is down pack of plastic

 

[renewablejohn]

Done something very similar in our dining room, although we didn't dab onto the stone.
I stripped everything back to the stone, then we concrete rendered the wall on the inside (including weathershield waterproofed in the render) let it dry, the used dab and insulated board.
Our house is a 2-400 year old sandstone building with 24" walls. We thought the concrete render would help damp issues (although it's not been a big problem previously) but also strengthen the walls, binding them together as the lime mortar is a bit flaky.

Think you have created a disaster waiting to happen.

 

[Hampton]

Think you have created a disaster waiting to happen.

Do you mean because the wall can't breathe? If so then how is it any different to people rendering on the outside?

 

[renewablejohn]

Do you mean because the wall can't breathe? If so then how is it any different to people rendering on the outside?

Concrete seals the wall on the inside allowing sandstone to retain water. First hard frosts and your external sandstone shatters and crumbles. Will not seem much to start with but over a decade will be very noticeable. Might not be such a problem so long as we keep getting mild winters.

You have a similar problem if you render and seal the outside of the house. The moisture from inside cannot get out therefore the walls seem permanetly damp and are diagnosed as rising damp. Total myth its just condensation cannot get out creating the problem.

 

[Hampton]

Concrete seals the wall on the inside allowing sandstone to retain water. First hard frosts and your external sandstone shatters and crumbles. Will not seem much to start with but over a decade will be very noticeable. Might not be such a problem so long as we keep getting mild winters.

You have a similar problem if you render and seal the outside of the house. The moisture from inside cannot get out therefore the walls seem permanetly damp and are diagnosed as rising damp. Total myth its just condensation cannot get out creating the problem.

We water shielded the outside of the house last year to prevent water coming in

 

[Farfrae]

Any damp issues need to be sorted correctly first.

From memory Building Regs reqiuires that mechanical fixings are also used (not just dot and dab) to ensure the stability of the boards in the event of a fire to prevent escape routes from becoming blocked.

 

[renewablejohn]

We water shielded the outside of the house last year to prevent water coming in

Thats even worse so you have in effect created a trough with a concrete seal on the inside and a water seal on the outside. Dont know what to suggest to correct.

Maybe this article will explain why I am concerned for you.

http://www.heritage-house.org/damp-problems-caused-by-cement-render.html

I was in a similar position as previous renovation had used modern cements and plasters creating a damp (wet) home but have found Lime Mortar and Lime Plaster is the solution allowing the house to breathe and in so doing we now have a warm dry house.

 

[Hampton]

Thats even worse so you have in effect created a trough with a concrete seal on the inside and a water seal on the outside. Dont know what to suggest to correct.

Maybe this article will explain why I am concerned for you.

http://www.heritage-house.org/damp-problems-caused-by-cement-render.html

I was in a similar position as previous renovation had used modern cements and plasters creating a damp (wet) home but have found Lime Mortar and Lime Plaster is the solution allowing the house to breathe and in so doing we now have a warm dry house.

The house had been rendered. We took the render off and weather shielded it. I get what you are saying, but we rendered the inside. The moisture can still pass outwards, just not inwards.