International 574 overheating

Classichay

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
The moon
Hi all we’ve a 574 we bought a while back and as times gone on I’ve not done a huge deal with it, oil seemed clean, however rather watery ( not milky just thin )

oil pressure drops off after a while, sits about 1/2 up the gauge Then gets low (1/8 up the gauge) , she starts getting hot and I’m not sure why, there’s water in the radiator, admittedly the neck on the rad was cracked and I soldered that back shut, What would this be accountable to? And any possible solutions to this, she does chuff abit of blue smoke when she’s rubbing but with 5000 hours on I’d expect nothing else. Starts with no heat,
 
Is it the original radiator and have you attempted to flush it out thoroughly. Elderly radiators can and do get silted up at the bottom of the core tubes and severely restrict cooling abilities, sometimes even flushing compounds will not shift it and a replacement core is really the only solution.

Maybe someone with little knowledge before you has filled the engine with a thin hydraulic spec oil .

If I were you I would change the engine oil and filter with a correct engine grade an monitor over a few working days for a start.

When hot does the oil pressure rise with engine revs ?
 

essexpete

Member
Location
Essex
If it starts easily I can't think the engine is too bad. These little Doncaster tractors do not have a massive cooling ability and only need a slight reduction in efficiency to be a problem.
Flush through as others have said. Fit a new thermostat.
I always feel our 895 is close to the edge. Some models, particularly if air con fitted had a deeper core (tropical) rad with an offset filler. I would also take the advice of an oil change.
 

Classichay

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
The moon
Yes oil pressure rises with revs, I’m going to order a new thermostat, temperature rises when it’s revved over 1600rpm

I’m going to try and flush the radiator, possibly a hose pipe in the radiator, the water does look a rusty colour, I was suspecting a head gasket leak. Or thermostat or water pump with our luck.
 

essexpete

Member
Location
Essex
View attachment 892862View attachment 892862


They have or should have a bypass type thermostat, if all else fails, such as radiator clean, block flush out it's worth checking if it has the correct stat fitted.

Oh & on the thin oil...it doesn't per chance have diesel in it ?
It's not uncommon to have say the injection pump seal leak into the timing cover.
Could the heater plug that delivers heated fuel into the intake manifold be a problem?
 

Classichay

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
The moon
View attachment 892862View attachment 892862


They have or should have a bypass type thermostat, if all else fails, such as radiator clean, block flush out it's worth checking if it has the correct stat fitted.

Oh & on the thin oil...it doesn't per chance have diesel in it ?
It's not uncommon to have say the injection pump seal leak into the timing cover.
Can you give what you’d suggest the best way to flush the block, I’m being lent a tool which you fit on a hose and attach an air line to wash out the radiator as I fear it may be abit rust filled.

as per the oil I’m curious if it is diesel in the oil, I can’t smell it but I think spending so much time round diesel machines you become abit less sensitive to it ?‍♂️
 
How old is your 574?
Most have Bosch injector pumps which I have never heard of going faulty and leaking but that doesn't say it could happen
There was a batch of 574's around
1973 that were fitted with CAV pumps
that do leak into sump
Which is yours?
But is the oil level rising?
 

Gapples

Member
Can you give what you’d suggest the best way to flush the block, I’m being lent a tool which you fit on a hose and attach an air line to wash out the radiator as I fear it may be abit rust filled.

as per the oil I’m curious if it is diesel in the oil, I can’t smell it but I think spending so much time round diesel machines you become abit less sensitive to it ?‍♂️

There's a brass bung on the LHS of the engine block just above the starter motor, you can back flush through there.
 
There's a brass bung on the LHS of the engine block just above the starter motor, you can back flush through there.
I would advise against attempting to undo brass bung on side of engine....
When I worked at main IH dealer from
1976 to 1980 I remember trying to undo brass bung on 2 year old tractor and it twisted off which caused problems and I was not the only one it
Happened to
The boss give instructions using some strong words that no more attempts at
Undoing bungs should happen again
 

Gapples

Member
I would advise against attempting to undo brass bung on side of engine....
When I worked at main IH dealer from
1976 to 1980 I remember trying to undo brass bung on 2 year old tractor and it twisted off which caused problems and I was not the only one it
Happened to
The boss give instructions using some strong words that no more attempts at
Undoing bungs should happen again

Odd, I worked at IH dealer from 1974 for over 35 years & must have undone dozens & dozens of those bungs.
Never once had a hint of one breaking or twisting, they are solid brass.
But it's up to the OP really, use a hex socket on it & try to undo the bung, see how it feels.
They have a taper thread so once you got them turning they are usually fine.
 
Odd, I worked at IH dealer from 1974 for over 35 years & must have undone dozens & dozens of those bungs.
Never once had a hint of one breaking or twisting, they are solid brass.
But it's up to the OP really, use a hex socket on it & try to undo the bung, see how it feels.
They have a taper thread so once you got them turning they are usually fine.
Perhaps it was me just being unlucky!!
But after 40 + years this 574 bung has
got to be tight
 

Wisconsonian

Member
Trade
Rainwater makes a nice flush, it's just acidic enough to remove a little rust and lime scale. Drain it hot, fill it up and run it a few hours, drain it hot and repeat until you're satisfied it's clean enough. If you drain it into a clean white bucket, you can tell how much scale you get with each flush.

That's assuming the exterior won't of the radiator is clean. Check the temps with a non contact thermometer to see what's really going on.
 

Classichay

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
The moon
Well, after many hours dicking around today with it, I’ve drained the coolant and used a fancy tool for cleaning radiators 7AD60128-6DB5-447B-80CC-1E71A1B4D8D9.png

I’ve cleaned the radiator and flushed the engine. Went to fit the thermostat and came to the realization that there was infact not one fitted.... many google searches later to check I wasn’t going mad. The radiator will accept a garden hose at full chat through the filler neck and not leak out from the top pipe.

Fitted the one I had ordered from eBay tractor was still getting hot within 5 minutes of being started at 1800rpm.
Abit more head scratching went on and I’m sure I’ve got the wrong stat as it should If my theory is correct, block off the access for the short circuit for cold running and force it upwards into the top radiator hose. I think it’s called a bypass valve? am I correct in my thinking, as my bottom hose was red hot but just didn’t seem like anything was happening through the radiator.
 

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