Yes, both side covers off. That would certainly make things a lot easier, thanksCould be a fault in the main feed to the keyswitch. The lights bypass this. The radio might too.
I'd be rigging a flylead from battery positive to the pump stop solenoid to hold it open and use another to the starter motor start terminal to crank her. Has she still got engine side covers? (Very few still have ime). If not there is just room to get to the starter with the loader down.
Once she's running lift the loader and prop it. You'll have access to do a proper fault trace then.
Thanks mateThis is a project 7 "Grey Cab" wiring diagram but most will be the same:
View attachment 959925
If you can get a 12V feed to A (fuel solenoid) and B (starter terminal) she'll start.
2 is the keyswitch
Ok, did some investigating, there are 2 relays marked as ignition in position 1 & 4. ( been searching for owner manual for a month, found it today) there is power in to both relay sockets at all times. No output ( solenoid not activated with key on) Figure i will run a jumper cable from battery with a couple of hefty wires connecting via a fuse on each ( start with 5a and work my way up) going to where out put is on fuse mounting blocks. This might confirm possibility of ignition switch fault. Either that or I’ll let the magic smoke out. If anyone thinks this is a real bad idea, I’d like to know. Won’t do it till tomorrow, as it’s part beer o’clock now. Thanks for your time fellasThanks mate
It’s tricky to get dash out. Want a lead before going that route. Am retired, live Stuarts Point NSW, Australia.Just check for power at key switch ?? Work logically?
I was a plant operator. My son does contract harvesting and spraying, has a John Deere 640D harvester and a JD 4630 sprayerIt’s tricky to get dash out. Want a lead before going that route. Am retired, live Stuarts Point NSW, Australia.
The biggest problem on that model is the rev counter cable. From project 7 onwards they have an electric rev counter.On reflection, if my theory doesn’t pan out, the next step will be checking what’s going in and out of ignition switch anyway, same if it does. Should prob work out how to pull the dash with one hand without destroying anything first, to check ign switch first.
What year did the project 7 models start?The biggest problem on that model is the rev counter cable. From project 7 onwards they have an electric rev counter.
Who had the great idea to put a coal fire power station in the middle of London, out of curiosity???
What year did the project 7 models start?
Sorry folks, I've now realised my mistake in thinking I'd read the op as an '86 not a '96 3CX.Project 7 models or grey cabs started in 1987. Or at least they did with us in the UK,and they ran til August 91. If yours is 96,I'd make it a Project 8. Dashboard to the right hand side of the seat...
YProject 7 models or grey cabs started in 1987. Or at least they did with us in the UK,and they ran til August 91. If yours is 96,I'd make it a Project 8. Dashboard to the right hand side of the seat...
no worries mate, wasn’t looking forward to battle with tachometer cable, the heater control cable is enough of a pain when trying to get the dash out.Sorry folks, I've now realised my mistake in thinking I'd read the op as an '86 not a '96 3CX.
My replies will have been wrong as there are big differences once you move to the project 8.
Apologies.
Ok, no power to ignition switch, haven’t found the 50a fuse near + battery terminal yet. If that was blown would I still have radio and lights ( Which are both working)?Have you access to a multimeter or circuit tester?
Are you getting battery power at both sides of the 3 amp ignition fuse in the fuse box to the right of the seat and power out of the 50 amp main fuse in the box connected to the positive battery terminal? You need to check for power at the back of the key switch too.
Would ignition supply not come from starter? Main battery lead goes to starter then supply lead to ignition comes from there I would think, but just put a jumper supply from battery to ignition switch and see if the machine will start for youOk, no power to ignition switch, haven’t found the 50a fuse near + battery terminal yet. If that was blown would I still have radio and lights ( Which are both working)?
I’ll have to work out which wire going to switch is supply wire. There are 4 thick wires, one thicker than the other 3. There is continuity ( when plugged into switch) between the thickest wire and one of the other thick wires, also. between the other 2 thick wires. Also 3 thinner wires plugging into switch. My best bet is to put power to the thickest wire via a fuse, worse case scenario I blow the fuse, or make sone smoke I guess. If I can fire the old girl up, I can lift the bucket and try and find that 50a fuse.Would ignition supply not come from starter? Main battery lead goes to starter then supply lead to ignition comes from there I would think, but just put a jumper supply from battery to ignition switch and see if the machine will start for you
You should be able to work it out by Checking continuity on switchI’ll have to work out which wire going to switch is supply wire. There are 4 thick wires, one thicker than the other 3. There is continuity ( when plugged into switch) between the thickest wire and one of the other thick wires, also. between the other 2 thick wires. Also 3 thinner wires plugging into switch. My best bet is to put power to the thickest wire via a fuse, worse case scenario I blow the fuse, or make sone smoke I guess. If I can fire the old girl up, I can lift the bucket and try and find that 50a fuse.