JD 6920 transmission calibration

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
Yes it is possible to calibrate through the dash, but chances are if it’s at the stage you feel it needs a calibration you’ve more than likely got an underlining issue either with a valve or clutch pack.

If there is an issue a calibration could just mask it for a while, which isn’t good.

Also if you don’t have a good understanding of the onboard diagnostic system and how to navigate it, I would need to write an sa to talk you through the process anyway. That’s providing it calibrated first go with no faults.
I hate to say it but your best bet is to get someone who knows the system to check it over for you before going any further.
 

Hummin-Cummins

Member
Livestock Farmer
Yes it is possible to calibrate through the dash, but chances are if it’s at the stage you feel it needs a calibration you’ve more than likely got an underlining issue either with a valve or clutch pack.

If there is an issue a calibration could just mask it for a while, which isn’t good.

Also if you don’t have a good understanding of the onboard diagnostic system and how to navigate it, I would need to write an sa to talk you through the process anyway. That’s providing it calibrated first go with no faults.
I hate to say it but your best bet is to get someone who knows the system to check it over for you before going any further.


I can navigate through it no problem I recently had the power quad out 12 months ago after a snap ring on the centre hub broke up and since then its been a touch jumpier than I’d like when selecting forward gear, i thought you could calibrate through PCU controller but dont get an address 20 for calibration
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
I can navigate through it no problem I recently had the power quad out 12 months ago after a snap ring on the centre hub broke up and since then its been a touch jumpier than I’d like when selecting forward gear, i thought you could calibrate through PCU controller but dont get an address 20 for calibration
I’ll try and write the proceedure down for you but it will be later tonight.
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
This procedure is performed at your own risk, no warranty is offered or implied, you may lose your house if you do not keep up repayments;)


Right calibration, to start you’ll need to heat the transmission oil to at least 55 *c you can check this in the EPC address 36, it’s displayed in *c

Park the tractor on level ground and select park and make sure the hand brake is off, enter diagnostics (technician mode) and set the rpm to 2100

Go to EPC address 37, this is to confirm oil type, you will need to enter and save it as 000 even though it will all ready show 000.

(Once you start calibration DO NOT operate and ancillarys - pto, diff lock, mfwd, ac etc. It doesn’t matter if they are on but don’t cycle them)

Then go to address EPC 38 (it will display cal) enter address,
The display will then show “For” , move the f/r level into forward.

After a shot time the display will change to “nEU” move the lever to neutral

The display will then changed to “A” select A range.

The display will then change to “For” again, move the f/r lever into forward again.

The display will change to “F” while the forward clutch is calibrated (do nothing it will take a couple of minutes)

The display will then change to “rEu” move the f/r lever to reverse

The display will change to “R” while the reverse clutch is calibrated (do nothing it will take a couple of minutes)

Once reverse is finished the display will change to “EOC” provided there’s no faults.

Once “EOC” is displayed save the calibration (hazard lights on/off) knock revs off and restart tractor.

Go for test drive.

If it’s still not acceptable you may need someone with a laptop to tweak the calibration settings.

If you get any faults during calibration it may display Some other letters

Oil - check oil temp
Spd- check engine rpm or ground speed detected

H - pack pressure high
L - pack pressure low

There’s a load others but they’re the ones you may get.
 

Hummin-Cummins

Member
Livestock Farmer
This procedure is performed at your own risk, no warranty is offered or implied, you may lose your house if you do not keep up repayments;)


Right calibration, to start you’ll need to heat the transmission oil to at least 55 *c you can check this in the EPC address 36, it’s displayed in *c

Park the tractor on level ground and select park and make sure the hand brake is off, enter diagnostics (technician mode) and set the rpm to 2100

Go to EPC address 37, this is to confirm oil type, you will need to enter and save it as 000 even though it will all ready show 000.

(Once you start calibration DO NOT operate and ancillarys - pto, diff lock, mfwd, ac etc. It doesn’t matter if they are on but don’t cycle them)

Then go to address EPC 38 (it will display cal) enter address,
The display will then show “For” , move the f/r level into forward.

After a shot time the display will change to “nEU” move the lever to neutral

The display will then changed to “A” select A range.

The display will then change to “For” again, move the f/r lever into forward again.

The display will change to “F” while the forward clutch is calibrated (do nothing it will take a couple of minutes)

The display will then change to “rEu” move the f/r lever to reverse

The display will change to “R” while the reverse clutch is calibrated (do nothing it will take a couple of minutes)

Once reverse is finished the display will change to “EOC” provided there’s no faults.

Once “EOC” is displayed save the calibration (hazard lights on/off) knock revs off and restart tractor.

Go for test drive.

If it’s still not acceptable you may need someone with a laptop to tweak the calibration settings.

If you get any faults during calibration it may display Some other letters

Oil - check oil temp
Spd- check engine rpm or ground speed detected

H - pack pressure high
L - pack pressure low

There’s a load others but they’re the ones you may get.


Brilliant, sounds easy enough I’ll let you know how it goes

Many thanks
H-C
 

Hummin-Cummins

Member
Livestock Farmer
This procedure is performed at your own risk, no warranty is offered or implied, you may lose your house if you do not keep up repayments;)


Right calibration, to start you’ll need to heat the transmission oil to at least 55 *c you can check this in the EPC address 36, it’s displayed in *c

Park the tractor on level ground and select park and make sure the hand brake is off, enter diagnostics (technician mode) and set the rpm to 2100

Go to EPC address 37, this is to confirm oil type, you will need to enter and save it as 000 even though it will all ready show 000.

(Once you start calibration DO NOT operate and ancillarys - pto, diff lock, mfwd, ac etc. It doesn’t matter if they are on but don’t cycle them)

Then go to address EPC 38 (it will display cal) enter address,
The display will then show “For” , move the f/r level into forward.

After a shot time the display will change to “nEU” move the lever to neutral

The display will then changed to “A” select A range.

The display will then change to “For” again, move the f/r lever into forward again.

The display will change to “F” while the forward clutch is calibrated (do nothing it will take a couple of minutes)

The display will then change to “rEu” move the f/r lever to reverse

The display will change to “R” while the reverse clutch is calibrated (do nothing it will take a couple of minutes)

Once reverse is finished the display will change to “EOC” provided there’s no faults.

Once “EOC” is displayed save the calibration (hazard lights on/off) knock revs off and restart tractor.

Go for test drive.

If it’s still not acceptable you may need someone with a laptop to tweak the calibration settings.

If you get any faults during calibration it may display Some other letters

Oil - check oil temp
Spd- check engine rpm or ground speed detected

H - pack pressure high
L - pack pressure low

There’s a load others but they’re the ones you may get.



Worked a treat, much appreciated, thank you

H-C
 

6920sman

New Member
Hi guys. I know this conversation is old but since my question is to do with the subject of the convo I thought I’d add it on. I have a 04 6920s which is very jumpy when forward is engaged. I tried to eliminate the gearbox itself being the problem by plugging out F/R solenoids on the box and plugging them back in backwards so that backwards was forwards and so on. So I tried driving it and reverse (forward on the shuttle) became jumpy and forward was fine. This leads me to believe that the problem isn’t the transmission. I tried to do a calibration as described here but coming towards the end when in reverse it just beeped at me and brought up Spd on the dash which I take to mean suspended. Has anyone got any idea what’s wrong? Thanks in advance.
 

Tractortech

Member
Location
Cumbria
Hi guys. I know this conversation is old but since my question is to do with the subject of the convo I thought I’d add it on. I have a 04 6920s which is very jumpy when forward is engaged. I tried to eliminate the gearbox itself being the problem by plugging out F/R solenoids on the box and plugging them back in backwards so that backwards was forwards and so on. So I tried driving it and reverse (forward on the shuttle) became jumpy and forward was fine. This leads me to believe that the problem isn’t the transmission. I tried to do a calibration as described here but coming towards the end when in reverse it just beeped at me and brought up Spd on the dash which I take to mean suspended. Has anyone got any idea what’s wrong? Thanks in advance.
Now Then.
Spd means speed detected. The tractor must have rolled a little..
 

6920sman

New Member
It was on a level concrete floor but it was doing that very slight jerking forward and back. What can I do to prevent it? Good to know it might not be a fault with the tractor
 

thebomberD

Member
Livestock Farmer
I have a 6320 and recently got for/rev packs replaced. My mech usually gets a younger mech friend to do electronic bits for him, but he proved unreliable so I decided to give it a go myself. I followed Phil p instructions for calibration to the letter, I got to put tractor in "for", then neutral, then put it in A, then in "for" again. I tried a few times, and the display showed either "tCAL" or EnG(might also have been En9). Anyone got any ideas as to what these mean.
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
I have a 6320 and recently got for/rev packs replaced. My mech usually gets a younger mech friend to do electronic bits for him, but he proved unreliable so I decided to give it a go myself. I followed Phil p instructions for calibration to the letter, I got to put tractor in "for", then neutral, then put it in A, then in "for" again. I tried a few times, and the display showed either "tCAL" or EnG(might also have been En9). Anyone got any ideas as to what these mean.
“Eng” usually means your rpm isn’t correct, either too high or low. You need to be on a steady 2100rpm while doing the calibration. Set the rpm on the hand throttle so it stays constant.
 

thebomberD

Member
Livestock Farmer
“Eng” usually means your rpm isn’t correct, either too high or low. You need to be on a steady 2100rpm while doing the calibration. Set the rpm on the hand throttle so it stays constant.
Great, I'll give it a try again tomorrow so, I'll set the revs on the digital clock before I enter the calibration. Appreciate the quick reply.
 

thebomberD

Member
Livestock Farmer
This is what comes up, but I've also noticed now that the tractor jerks forward and SPD flashes for a second, is there any way to prevent this
 

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