JD front axle oil

[average farmer]

Another wet day here so thought I'd change the oil in the front axle of our 8320 its not ready for doing but thought I'd do it anyway but can't remember what what oil to put back in.

The book says hi-gaurd but sure last time I was advised by the JD mechanic to use LS-90. or am I getting mixed up with the hubs?

Many thanks John

 

[brynseiri]

80-90 LS in the Axle, Hy Gard in the hubs, but Hy Gard will do just fine in the axle, its what JD tell you to use.

 

[NZ Tech]

Pretty sure its hygard across the whole axle/final drives and gear oil can make the diff lsd plates stick together causing the axle plates to need replacing.

 

[brynseiri]

Pretty sure its hygard across the whole axle/final drives and gear oil can make the diff lsd plates stick together causing the axle plates to need replacing.

Thought 80-90 LS had the anti squawk additives in it to stop that problem? I had a pressure issue in mine, believe it or not it came without a breather from new, so having fitted a breather hy guard would weep out the breather, so got some EP 80-90 LS from my oil supplier, the axle was on their spec sheet as having either that or hy gard in it, but hy guard or equivalent in the hubs only. The gear oil was bloody dear too, the axle takes a gallon exactly. About £25/ gallon iirc.

 

[ACEngineering]

Thought 80-90 LS had the anti squawk additives in it to stop that problem? I had a pressure issue in mine, believe it or not it came without a breather from new, so having fitted a breather hy guard would weep out the breather, so got some EP 80-90 LS from my oil supplier, the axle was on their spec sheet as having either that or hy gard in it, but hy guard or equivalent in the hubs only. The gear oil was bloody dear too, the axle takes a gallon exactly. About £25/ gallon iirc.

£25 per gallon!!! you must have bought a 5 litre can! about £50 would buy you 25 litre can.

 

[brynseiri]

£25 per gallon!!! you must have bought a 5 litre can! about £50 would buy you 25 litre can.

That's what it was, q8 stuff, from Caldo in Rhyl. I asked him if it had focking gold in it.

 

[paul&mandy]

ignore the manual and stick ls90 in it

 

[NZ Tech]

Well you can ignore the manual but I have actually seen quite a lot of these axles go this way. The mechanical diff starts locking with a small amount of steering lock. So go with the cheaper option in the manual and save headaches and cash out lay. But its your call

 

[Cowabunga]

Limited slip diffs in tractor front axles are the work of the devil. JD are about the last ones to continue using them.
If the manual gives a choice of LS EP90 or LS 80W/90 or UTTO or Super Universal, then I would tend towards the UTTU/SUTO unless the tractor was used for mainly heavy tillage.

The hubs probably have wet brakes if they are only meant to be filled with UTTO/SUTO type oil. On no account should heavier gear oil be used.

In all cases, this axle needs oil suitable for wet clutches, which have friction modifiers.

 

[average farmer]

Bloody hell, I'm more confused now than ever,

Tractor is mainly used for heavy tillage work.

 

[NZ Tech]

Stick to the op manual.. sorry for the thread mud.

 

[NZ Tech]

Lsd pack diffs actually give good service life for low costs. Simplicity for the operator as well... less buttons less settings.

 

[Brisel]

Hyguard, though a bit of gear oil in it isn't a bad thing. One of the old boys at my local fitters uses 50% Hyguard & 50% Torqueguard gear oil. I'm inclined to use what the manual says.

 

[ACEngineering]

I am of the opinion jd used to recomend ls90 but in recent times recomend hygaurd to make things simpler as in one oil does all axles front and rear. There for in my eyes a jack of all trades oil. I would stick to the manual unless that oil wasnt working too well then I would have no worries trying ls90 after all limited slip diffs is what ls90 is specifically designed for.

 

[NZ Tech]

They lock up on any gear oil. Is anyone listening to me... ??. Dont use any gear oil.. it will cost you in the long run. This thread is so convoluted now.

 

[Ducati899]

I will say this only once......... Hy-guard

 

[76masseyman]

John Deere Hyguard is a 10w/30 grade, so will come out as an SAE 80. It also carries the gear oil spec' of a GL4, so it is an EP.

So why FFS would you bother going against all the JD testing and development, to go purchase 'more oil' when you have exactly what is required anyway, in the Hyguard you have for the transmission. As @NZ Tech say's, it can cost in the long run.

 

[Sebastian]

Pretty sure its hygard across the whole axle/final drives and gear oil can make the diff lsd plates stick together causing the axle plates to need replacing.

Hygard is what is in my manual and what gets used during the dealer service.

 

[Simon Chiles]

John Deere Hyguard is a 10w/30 grade, so will come out as an SAE 80. It also carries the gear oil spec' of a GL4, so it is an EP.

So why FFS would you bother going against all the JD testing and development, to go purchase 'more oil' when you have exactly what is required anyway, in the Hyguard you have for the transmission. As @NZ Tech say's, it can cost in the long run.

For 10 series Deeres the manual says Hyguard, the plate on the axle says LS90. I think Deere recommend Hyguard just to keep things simple. Both mine have clocked 19,000 hrs between them on LS 90, if it was going to be a problem I think it would have shown by now.

PS, always use Hyguard in reduction hubs with brakes.

 

[Thedeeredoctor]

I prefer to use ls 90 in axle and hubs never had any problems with it have seen utto used and diffs start to chatter and brakes squawk