JD water pump

[Chuckie]

I've been trying to fit a new water pump to a 6430, when the old one came off it brought the plate off with it that is glued to the timing case with what looks like white silicone sealant. The dealer has given me some sealant for this but I think it is loctite type anerobic sealant and am not convinced that it will set properly behind the plate, because the gap is quite wide and will have air in?

I've fitted it but not put any coolant back, I'm wondering whether to take it back off again and get some silicone/rtv type stuff for in there, or will it be OK?

It's a bit of a stupid setup, more complicted than it needs to be............and I've never done one before

@Phil P @Tractortech any advice greatly appreciated

 

[Phil P]

I've been trying to fit a new water pump to a 6430, when the old one came off it brought the plate off with it that is glued to the timing case with what looks like white silicone sealant. The dealer has given me some sealant for this but I think it is loctite type anerobic sealant and am not convinced that it will set properly behind the plate, because the gap is quite wide and will have air in?

I've fitted it but not put any coolant back, I'm wondering whether to take it back off again and get some silicone/rtv type stuff for in there, or will it be OK?

It's a bit of a stupid setup, more complicted than it needs to be............and I've never done one before

@Phil P @Tractortech any advice greatly appreciated

Did they give you the orange stuff, think it’s L64500?
If they did it’s not the right stuff, I usually use locktight 5980 to seal the plate back in but a decent heavy duty silicone sealant will do.

The plate is to reduce the tolerance between the impeller and the housing which increases flow from the pump, basically it’s cheaper then changing the machining process on the timing cover!

 

[Chuckie]

Did they give you the orange stuff, think it’s L64500?
If they did it’s not the right stuff, I usually use locktight 5980 to seal the plate back in but a decent heavy duty silicone sealant will do.

The plate is to reduce the tolerance between the impeller and the housing which increases flow from the pump, basically it’s cheaper then changing the machining process on the timing cover!

Thanks, the stuff they supplied is purple, looks like the stuff New Holland use on the trumpet housings on the back axle. I'll get a photo later.

 

[Chuckie]

This was it, it's not silicone based and only suitable for gaps up to 0.3mm so I've took it off and cleaned it again, and put it back with Dirko grey, which is silicone based and I've had good luck with in the past. It can sit overnight to set.

I'm going to flush it with water a few times before putting cool gard in, is there much danger of air locks when refilling? In the book it tells you to remove a steel pipe from near the top of the engine when refilling, but I don't want to end up with another leak so would sooner not disturb that if possible

 

[Tractortech]

Now Then..
The stainless insert is actually there to prevent cavitation in the coolant causing the aluminium of the timing case becoming porous.. Any silicone RTV sealant will be fine.
There is a 'balance valve' in the front of the radiator which is awkward but should be opened. There are 2 separate cooling systems within the one radiator. The low temperature one is the one prone to air locks. At the bottom R/H side of the radiator, there's a rubber hose which connects with a steel line heading up to the low temp pump behind the fan drive. When it's working correctly, at half revs, squeeze the hose and you should feel a vuhacuum inside suck the hose flat. If it 7 , there's air in the circuit. After you've flushed the system with the balance valve open. Take the bottom hose off the radiator to get rid of the water.
With the bottom hose back on and the drain valve closed, fill the radiator with clean Coolgard. When it's full, start it, look carefully for coolant movement in the R/H side of the header tank and squeeze the hose mentioned earlier (caution, rotating fan).. If you have an air lock, try some rag and piece of hose in the filler cap. Blow into the hose while sealing the cap hole with the rag. I've used the airline in the past but be careful, don't blow the cooling system..

 

[Chuckie]

Now Then..
The stainless insert is actually there to prevent cavitation in the coolant causing the aluminium of the timing case becoming porous.. Any silicone RTV sealant will be fine.
There is a 'balance valve' in the front of the radiator which is awkward but should be opened. There are 2 separate cooling systems within the one radiator. The low temperature one is the one prone to air locks. At the bottom R/H side of the radiator, there's a rubber hose which connects with a steel line heading up to the low temp pump behind the fan drive. When it's working correctly, at half revs, squeeze the hose and you should feel a vuhacuum inside suck the hose flat. If it 7 , there's air in the circuit. After you've flushed the system with the balance valve open. Take the bottom hose off the radiator to get rid of the water.
With the bottom hose back on and the drain valve closed, fill the radiator with clean Coolgard. When it's full, start it, look carefully for coolant movement in the R/H side of the header tank and squeeze the hose mentioned earlier (caution, rotating fan).. If you have an air lock, try some rag and piece of hose in the filler cap. Blow into the hose while sealing the cap hole with the rag. I've used the airline in the past but be careful, don't blow the cooling system..

Thanks for that, it's not quite as straightforward as I hoped it would be

 

[Chuckie]

Water pump fitted and new coolant in, can feel vacuum in that hose so should be ok there.

Now I've got a new gas strut for the steering column to fit, does all the dash need to come off or is there room by just undoing the lower bit?

 

[Phil P]

Water pump fitted and new coolant in, can feel vacuum in that hose so should be ok there.

Now I've got a new gas strut for the steering column to fit, does all the dash need to come off or is there room by just undoing the lower bit?

If it’s on the 6430 you need to remove the steering wheel and dash, which is actually pretty easy on a 30. Then remove the lower section, you’ll need to pull the very bottom part out towards the seat as you lift or it hooks on the bottom of the strut.

 

[Flat 10]

If it’s on the 6430 you need to remove the steering wheel and dash, which is actually pretty easy on a 30. Then remove the lower section, you’ll need to pull the very bottom part out towards the seat as you lift or it hooks on the bottom of the strut.

What's it like on a 6810?

 

[Phil P]

What's it like on a 6810?

Bit of a pig to be honest, side panels off, remove dash, then remove the bolts from the dash surrounding so you can lift it up. I usually put a bungee tie round the steering wheel to hold it up out the way.
The bottom pin has to be hammered out, just be carful not to bend the bracket as it’s usually tight! Top is just two allen key bolts so not to bad once you get them.