JD2850 Clutch won't disengage

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Just when we need it most on the flat eight stacker the clutch won't disengage so can't get it in gear.

We have tried everything externally, bled the fluid and all that malarkey but looks like it will need splitting.

It's not slipping but won't disengage.

What's happened? Multipower has won't go in high either without low pressure warning but that's a different matter.
 

Sharpy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Is the clutch stuck with sitting or have you no pedal resistance? You don't bleed the 50series with the pedal, you back bleed through the nipple with an oil can or syringe and a wee bit of pipe.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Is the clutch stuck with sitting or have you no pedal resistance? You don't bleed the 50series with the pedal, you back bleed through the nipple with an oil can or syringe and a wee bit of pipe.

Not stuck with sitting. Pedal has reisistance and seems to be moving something but won't seem to separate clutch. Gears grate if you try to engage them.
 

kill

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
South West
Thrust bearing has seized and eaten the toggle bolts would be my thinking. It's going to need splitting and clutch replacing so proper old school repairing (y)
Was the clutch pedal gaining free play?
 

roscoe erf

Member
Livestock Farmer
its not a major job done mine a couple of years ago don't forget to change the slave cylinder while your in there

IMG_20150803_112352.jpg
IMG_20150803_113521.jpg
IMG_20150803_113533.jpg
 

jd6820

Moderator
Arable Farmer
Could possibly seals in master cylinder? Otherwise your pretty much a split tractor job to fix. I've had the pedal feel okay but it was leaking past when load applied to release clutch. New seals and job was a go'er. Easy to take apart too?
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Further investigation reveals that the master cylinder isn't pumping fluid, so we are replacing it.

Can anybody tell us whether it should be DOT4 or mineral oil in the clutch and brakes system? This confusion might be the source of our problem. The fluid that did drain out seemed extremely black as if it had dissolved a seal or something. Can't believe it got dust or dirt in it with secure lid and gauze filler.
 

Tractortech

Member
Location
Cumbria
Now Then..
The clutch fluid is Dot 4. The brakes are filled by the steering return oil passing through the brake reservoir..
They say clutch dust can enter the slave cylinder and turn the fluid black..
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
The new master cylinder has helped considerably but despite adjusting it correctly, the gears still grate too much when trying to engage them so it looks like the thrust bearing/slave piston has also deteriotated, so it will have to be split.

But at least the new master cylinder does at least allow us to engage gears to move the tractor, remove the loader and get it into the right position in the workshop so some improvement and progress has been made.
 

Tractortech

Member
Location
Cumbria
Now Then..
Before you get too far with splitting it, have you bled it backwards with an oil can?? Also, is yours an early one with the Hi-Lo on the gearlever or a later one with the separate Hi-Lo lever??
Your Hi-Lo issue will require the cab to be removed..
 

Sharpy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Pretty sure you can split the transmission at the front of the gearbox to access the hilo pack without removing the cab. Just roll the front out. I did this to overhaul the pto pack on my 3050.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
It has a separate Hi Lo lever.

Thanks for advice. My brother reckoned he had bled it back through the bleed nipple well enough but will have another go.

As a separate issue we have two steel tubes that run underneath the RHS of the tractor to the oil pump at the front end maybe. They aren't continuos but each has a length of hose jubilee clipped in about mid way under accelerator pedal area. I don't know if this is how it should be as they are difficult to seal and prone to slide along the tubes and leak even with doubled up jubilee clips. I wonder if this is something a previous owner patched in? Looks like a bodge and not suitable for the pressure?

The oil pump at the front end in the radiator housing does clatter and knock a fair old bit as well.
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
It has a separate Hi Lo lever.

Thanks for advice. My brother reckoned he had bled it back through the bleed nipple well enough but will have another go.

As a separate issue we have two steel tubes that run underneath the RHS of the tractor to the oil pump at the front end maybe. They aren't continuos but each has a length of hose jubilee clipped in about mid way under accelerator pedal area. I don't know if this is how it should be as they are difficult to seal and prone to slide along the tubes and leak even with doubled up jubilee clips. I wonder if this is something a previous owner patched in? Looks like a bodge and not suitable for the pressure?

The oil pump at the front end in the radiator housing does clatter and knock a fair old bit as well.
The two rubber hoses are right, they're there so you can split the tractor. Probably need the hoses replacing if they keep leaking. The clattering will be the rubber damper knackered between the crank pulley and the pump drive shaft. Looks like a doe nut.
 

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As reported in Independent


quote: “Red Tractor has confirmed it is dropping plans to launch its green farming assurance standard in April“

read the TFF thread here: https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/gfc-was-to-go-ahead-now-not-going-ahead.405234/
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