John Deere 3050 - novice question

[Ioan annwyl]

Correct

 

[KB6930]

Correct

Thanks

 

[New Puritan]

Here we go again!

I was tidying up in the yard yesterday and noticed that there is an oil leak coming from where the right hand lower link arm attaches to the back of the tractor:

Clearly some sort of seal has gone and needs replacing in there. When I take it apart, will it drain all of the oil out? Or just a bit. How easy a job is this to do?

Many thanks, once again, for any help given on this!

NP.

 

[Ioan annwyl]

L170667 is the seal you need there. It's a high lift I'm sure there should be a bracket around that lower link and a wire ring in the groove around the ball to prevent that pin dropping out. I would drain the oil to check the condition of the oil. But can be done with the help of a few rags without draining oil if in a hurry on non high lift.
High lift more work, so may as well drain oil.

 

[New Puritan]

Thanks @Ioan annwyl ... It is a hi-lift one. The oil isn't all that old, hence my reluctance to get all of it out. It doesn't seem like good practice to put it back in again.

Sorry, please can you explain "should be a bracket around that lower link and a wire ring in the groove around the ball to prevent that pin dropping out" a little more, I'm not sure I follow?

Thanks again,

 

[New Puritan]

Argh - I might be being dense, but that part number seems to list a seal and a bush. Does that mean I would need to replace both? I just don't want to order 1 and then find I need both... Really sorry for asking so many probably obvious questions...

 

[Phil P]

Argh - I might be being dense, but that part number seems to list a seal and a bush. Does that mean I would need to replace both? I just don't want to order 1 and then find I need both... Really sorry for asking so many probably obvious questions...

L170667 is just the seal, it’s probably just gone hard with age. The clip that loan annwyl is what holds the small pin in and is missing on yours. Number 3

If I was doing it and didn’t want to drop the oil I’d remove the arm stic a hover in the filler neck (it holds the oil in) knock the shaft through far enough to change the seal then repeat on the other side. Don’t knock the shaft right in and take both arms off before you start.
Here’s a pic of the seals, you want number 2.

 

[Ioan annwyl]

L170667 is what you need L41196 is the bushing, L41198 is the old number for the seal, JD parts advisor shows the items quite clearly. Can't see a ring on yours, pin siezed in.

 

[Ivor Cornfield]

Also just to ad as a tip. Put an old pin in the load control shaft clip hole. Grind nearly to shaft size, and emery it smooth. A bit of grease before inserting through seals, turning the shaft as you go.

 

[Ioan annwyl]

L170667 is just the seal, it’s probably just gone hard with age. The clip that loan annwyl is what holds the small pin in and is missing on yours. Number 3
View attachment 631086
If I was doing it and didn’t want to drop the oil I’d remove the arm stic a hover in the filler neck (it holds the oil in) knock the shaft through far enough to change the seal then repeat on the other side. Don’t knock the shaft right in and take both arms off before you start.
Here’s a pic of the seals, you want number 2.

View attachment 631090

Like the Hoover idea, but dont always carry one on the van, unless it's combine season.

 

[Ioan annwyl]

Also just to ad as a tip. Put an old pin in the load control shaft clip hole. Grind nearly to shaft size, and emery it smooth. A bit of grease before inserting through seals, turning the shaft as you go.

Not as much a problem with the new L170667. The old clear (jelly type seals) L41198 were a bigger and need the holes in th shaft plugged..

 

[Phil P]

Like the Hoover idea, but dont always carry one on the van, unless it's combine season.

It works a treat as long as know one turns it off when you’re under it
It comes in handy swoping transmission valves and pto seals etc.
Just make sure it’s not over full with oil though or you can end up sucking it out the back into the hover! That really p#*ses the Mrs off

 

[Ivor Cornfield]

Not as much a problem with the new L170667. The old clear (jelly type seals) L41198 were a bigger and need the holes in th shaft plugged..

Ah ok. Learn as you go.

It has been a few years since i have done these, and pinched one the first time.
I guess i would still do it the same old headed way to me though.

 

[New Puritan]

Thanks everyone once again - @Ioan annwyl , @Ivor Cornfield , @Phil P .

Just being a bit lazy, does anyone have the part number for the missing no. 3 clip? I will have to go and check and see if the one on the other side is also missing.

Thanks you lot This forum has been a life-saver for keeping that old tractor running.

 

[Phil P]

Clip - L26936

 

[Hesston4860s]

Park the tractor with the front wheels in a ditch so it’s well nose down is how I did mine several years ago.
And whatever you do DONT take the shaft all the way out !.

 

[Hesston4860s]

Oh and do both sides while you’re at it, as if ones gone the other won’t be far behind.

 

[New Puritan]

Thanks @Phil P & @Hesston4860s - all good to know!

 

[AJR75]

Pretty straightforward job. Are the bushes seized on the shaft (looking at your pic)? Mine were the same and ended up wrapping damp rags around the shaft to stop heat transfer and persuading them loose with heat. May just be worth considering pin, bush and clips as an assembly if it is seriously seized on there- gives you the option to cut the old bush that way?

Like the Hoover idea- never heard of that one before! Also like the ditch idea as well- done that several times changing PTO shafts although not at this time of year! I did mine by hoiking the back of the tractor up with the crane.

 

[Ioan annwyl]

Please use rags, or drain oil method it is safer. It can be done in a shed, not on your back in a ditch .