John Deere 6430 premium

Simon Chiles

DD Moderator
johndeeres own loaders aren’t very good according to anyone on this forum

I’ve got a couple of JD loaders and I like them. One is a 753 on a 6930 and the other is a 740 on a 6910. The 6910 has clocked over 13,000 hours so the loader has probably done half of that in 22 years. Apart from having to change the couplings in the quick coupler and hydraulic hoses it’s been faultless. I do grease them both every 10 hours of work which is hardly a big deal IMO. If you took a pin out of the 740 you couldn’t detect any wear in it. I’m planning on clocking another 13,000 hrs on the 6910 and can’t see why the loader wouldn’t also still be going strong.
 
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Simon Chiles

DD Moderator
Morning Simon, are your loaders on Bowden cables or a joystick type?

Both on cabled joysticks. 740 has electric diverter for 3rd service , 753 has e-scv for third service and gear change in the joystick. To be fair with the auto quad I hardly use the loader gear change but occasionally it is handy.
One thing about a JD loader on a JD tractor is that if you’re retro fitting one it’s always an easy job as the two were designed to go together.
 

Mark C

Member
Location
Bedfordshire
Which model MX did you end up buying Mark? Was it fitted by a local dealer?
I bought an MX412s with hydraulic self levelling from Tuckwells with the E pilot joystick after looking and Quicke AND @powerontheland 's MX. The service from MX swung it for me as hadn't heard great things from a Quicke user for getting parts. Its a joy to use. The area sales rep from MX was so helpful, he came down while they fitted it and setup the joystick to do the power quad. Then came back after a month to tweak the settings as the tilt and crowd was a bit too quick. Absolute doddle to take on and off. You are welcome to come and have a go with it @Bill Turtle
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
Only John Deere could make a Euro fitting bucket that can’t be picked up by every euro carrier

It’s the position of their bottom bar in relation to the locking pins usually. If you lift a spurious item or a pair of cheap weld ons the locking pins wont go through as they don’t line up with the hole. Take note of where the bottom bar on the headstock lies sgainst the brackets and shave off whatever few mm needed to get the pins home.
 

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