Kale and swedes

Kiwi Pete

Member
Livestock Farmer
Its aready been mentioned , get a life 😂
I have several lives, same as you...

The thing is, turnips will have dissolved to a mush by the time the OP wants to graze them, so what sounds great on paper probably isn't.

Turnips make a great summer or early winter crop in NZ but for late winter sheep feeding, it's seldom done down south, and for good reason.

Brassica crops need to be in the ground much earlier than in the UK to catch the moisture, obtaining canopy closure by the longest day is ideal, so we're talking 160-200 days from sowing to grazing in the south, possibly including 120+ days with no measurable rainfall where the OP is situated

It's perhaps why the thread is titled "Kale and swedes"
 

Derrick Hughes

Member
Location
Ceredigion
I have several lives, same as you...

The thing is, turnips will have dissolved to a mush by the time the OP wants to graze them, so what sounds great on paper probably isn't.

Turnips make a great summer or early winter crop in NZ but for late winter sheep feeding, it's seldom done down south, and for good reason.

Brassica crops need to be in the ground much earlier than in the UK to catch the moisture, obtaining canopy closure by the longest day is ideal, so we're talking 160-200 days from sowing to grazing in the south, possibly including 120+ days with no measurable rainfall where the OP is situated

It's perhaps why the thread is titled "Kale and swedes"
Must be diffrent veriaties here then as ive grazed them myself well into march ,which is end of winter here ,but woukd depend on how late they are sown, ive grow a lot of swedes in the past ,massive yield but an unforgiving crop if things go wrong ,totaly usless in a long dry spell
But ive no idea of your climate so perhaps hes asking tje wrong peolpe
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
Must be diffrent veriaties here then as ive grazed them myself well into march ,which is end of winter here ,but woukd depend on how late they are sown, ive grow a lot of swedes in the past ,massive yield but an unforgiving crop if things go wrong ,totaly usless in a long dry spell

So have I, but I don’t farm on the South Island of NZ, and you’re a lot nearer a warm sea than me.;)
 

JD-Kid

Member
some of the winter turnips might grow bit could be looking 160-200 days in the ground if it was rapes etc then turnips would fit in greater time Frame wise
was just thinking more along the lines of trying to fill in the base a bit but looking like swedes might be a no show
years ago did oats kale and turnips for cows worked very well but was shorter growth time 100-140 days ok the oats were in head but acted like standing hay cows wasted a bit of it but was a good mulch to protect soil while grazing and did not have to feed out hay at same time bit of a win win.
 

Kevtherev

Member
Location
Welshpool Powys
I’ve oversown my beet with volunteer Spring Barley and Wild Oats this year. 🤐
No cabbages ?
9A8E919E-4E1D-4C4D-9E69-364C0A94C398.jpeg
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
Turnips make a great summer or early winter crop in NZ but for late winter sheep feeding, it's seldom done down south, and for good reason.
Point taken and its generally the same here , the relatively new idea ( triggered by the Dutch dairy boys iirc) of like stubble turnip/ shorter term brassica doesn't ,or isn't properly suitable for long term late winter keep.
Yeas ago it was all kale swede 'main crop turnip' but mainly for energy storage in the long term with good frost resistance..swede around here for sheep ,well and people actually....
The fact remains that kale doesn't go well.with swede.

unless like the op mentions in strips,which actually ir would be worth the hassle , ....with the right system of sowing in practice :unsure:.
half and half or like 2 drills drilling at the same time or something,whatever.
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
I DD’ed a 50/50 mix of swedes and kale with the Simtech one year, puttting swedes in one side of the drill and kale in the other, with a few blocked coulters to make the seed rate 50/50. The idea was to end up with alternating 3m strips of each, which worked well.

My plan was to be able to lift the fence over the kale strips, to put in the middle of each swede strip as often as necessary. Well that didn’t work very well, as the kale grew so tall it was a job to lift over cleanly, and the lambs were all trying to run under it as I went along.
I reverted to putting a new fence up in the swedes, then taking up the previous fence with the RAPPA winder instead.

I haven’t bothered repeating it as the lambs didn’t do any better than those on 100% roots, and life’s too short to make the job complicated for the sake of it.
but fencings always a bit of pain in kale rape tall top stuff anyway, especially if theres abit of lambtounge in it as well.:cautious:.
using the presccion drill helped a bit from the stumps anyway..

a narrow topper down through several places a few days before (or on a dry day or 2 previously ,with a bit of thought it can cut in all the 'rides' needed for all the fencelines that will be required through grazing ..in that block or field... makes the job much more pleasant.
 

JD-Kid

Member
but fencings always a bit of pain in kale rape tall top stuff anyway, especially if theres abit of lambtounge in it as well.:cautious:.
using the presccion drill helped a bit from the stumps anyway..

a narrow topper down through several places a few days before (or on a dry day or 2 previously ,with a bit of thought it can cut in all the 'rides' needed for all the fencelines that will be required through grazing ..in that block or field... makes the job much more pleasant.
seen a kale crop that had breaks cut with a muncher ummm I think 3 meters was a tad wide tho just a wide tire would of be good
 

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