Krone Tedder problem

[JMTHORNLEY]

As per f**king usual nothing goes right. First time out with this Tedder, usually just haybob behind the scraper tractor, wish I’d not bothered as that’s what I ended up doing

Old machine and needed some TLC new pipes and tyres and what not so here goes

Round headland once grand job, was a bit of tapping from two middle tines catching each other but with some crop through it didn’t seem to bother. Anyway second time round mustn’t have liked the angle of the field and snagged itself fouled the ground and jammed up. Looks to have jumped a cog and PTO just bounces, kind of hoping I’ve not done the box. When off the tractor I can turn the rotors but not had a proper inspection yet so don’t know 100%. Anyone any imideate suggestions to look at tomorrow as I’d really rather not wiz out 20 acre on the bob again

Thanks all

 

[livestock 1]

As per fudgeing usual nothing goes right. First time out with this Tedder, usually just haybob behind the scraper tractor, wish I’d not bothered as that’s what I ended up doing

Old machine and needed some TLC new pipes and tyres and what not so here goes

Round headland once grand job, was a bit of tapping from two middle tines catching each other but with some crop through it didn’t seem to bother. Anyway second time round mustn’t have liked the angle of the field and snagged itself fouled the ground and jammed up. Looks to have jumped a cog and PTO just bounces, kind of hoping I’ve not done the box. When off the tractor I can turn the rotors but not had a proper inspection yet so don’t know 100%. Anyone any imideate suggestions to look at tomorrow as I’d really rather not wiz out 20 acre on the bob again

Thanks all

These machines are ok while they are working like a lot more. Krone tedders tend to be like Japanese stuff, once they are worn out everything is knackered at the same time. They are prone to snapping or stripping the two bolts that thread down into each rotor from the top. If this has happened it’s possible that the rotor has dropped a bit and it’s jumped a tooth or two. It doesn’t usually strip any teeth off. I’ve retapped a few and had to weld a nut onto broken studs to get them out. Not a big job. It’s the two bolts that you can see from the top I think there’s a steering bracket on it too. The other thing is the horizontal shaft that drives the rotors is not overdone with bearings. These can go and cause similar problems. That’s a bit bigger job.

 

[icanshootwell]

Just fixed mine, clutch kept slipping, turned out the crown and pinion totally f**k#d, the gear box is a sealed unit and the oil or grease that was in there was like some black paste. Would of been better if there was a drain plug for oil so at least you can keep it topped up and changed.

 

[livestock 1]

Just fixed mine, clutch kept slipping, turned out the crown and pinion totally fudge#d, the gear box is a sealed unit and the oil or grease that was in there was like some black paste. Would of been better if there was a drain plug for oil so at least you can keep it topped up and changed.

The gearbox on mine can be dismantled. Mine went too

 

[icanshootwell]

On mine it was only 4 bolts that held the back plate on the gear box, my advice to anyone with a machine thats 10 year old or so is wip it off and put some fresh liquid grease in there, hold the machine up with a loader to make filling easier.

 

[livestock 1]

I think that Krone gear sometimes doesn’t have enough oil in their gearboxes. I had a mower did what you described ended up with some dry tar in it goosed. Plenty oil up to level at beginning of the season just likely got hot and disappeared through the breather. Conditioner gearbox likes a periodical smash up too. Good job they don’t make helicopters

 

[JMTHORNLEY]

I’ll have a quick look this morning. Was kind of hoping I just needed to take rotor off and reposition it but not going to be the easy is it

What’s the best way to attack it? Is there a strip down point as everything looks pretty well tied in

 

[livestock 1]

I’ll have a quick look this morning. Was kind of hoping I just needed to take rotor off and reposition it but not going to be the easy is it

What’s the best way to attack it? Is there a strip down point as everything looks pretty well tied in

Take the two bolts out of the top and the whole lot drops out if I remember rightly. It’s heaver than you think so be careful

 

[john432]

The older Krone tenders are crap, I have one! Simple fix to retime a rotor, hammer out the roll pin that holds the wheel bracket, if you can get that to drop about half an inch,then the rotor will drop enough to be retimed ,then just hammer back up and carry on untill it goes again.

 

[john432]

Come to think @livestock 1 solution is probably easier, and gets the same result.

 

[livestock 1]

Come to think @livestock 1 solution is probably easier, and gets the same result.

I can’t remember now mines fooked. I might have forgotten about the roll pin

 

[Mur Huwcun]

If you drop the whole rotor you can move the shims either side of the top bearing or errrrm even store them in your toolbox and bang the whole thing back in place without them! Was nearly an expert on the job after someone ruined one rotavating with a seized top link! Fair play to the driver, he did stop after shearing off about 7 or 8 rotor arms and two rotors got so tangled up the clutch went completely!!

 

[JMTHORNLEY]

So update I followed your excellent advice thanks all

Dropped the two bolts in the top, took the housing off probably didn’t need to in the end, lifted up and readjusted the timing. Works a treat and better than it did before it broke. Thanks all