Kubota ride on mower problem

Dry Rot

Member
Livestock Farmer
My "new" s/h GR1600 ride-on mower has been working fine since I levelled the deck, tightened up the pulleys, and carried out a few other minor adjustments. Still some vibration but I think it is blades out of balance.

However, mowing the lawn just now, the mower forward motion just stopped and the to/fro pedal went loose. Engine still runs but the to/fro pedal goes flat to the floor with no resistance and the mower has no forward movement. It does go into reverse (appears to be permanently in reverse now) when the brake is disengaged but the pedal just goes up or down without resistance. If I put the brake on, the to/fro pedal is now rock hard. The engine runs as normal whether the deck is engaged or not, the cutting deck is working, raising/lowering, normally. Engine starts and stops OK, just no traction and the pedal, as I've said, is 'loose' and travels to the floor without resistance when the brake is off.

It feels as if a linkage has become disengaged but before ripping it apart, I thought I'd ask here. I am hoping it is something simple!
 

Netherfield

Member
Location
West Yorkshire
Don't know how the Kubota works, but Countax has belt drive underneath, so when you press the pedal it just tightens the belt on the pulley, reverse pedal tightens a different belt.

I imagine the hand brake locks the pedal so as not to burn the belts out.
 

Dry Rot

Member
Livestock Farmer
Don't know how the Kubota works, but Countax has belt drive underneath, so when you press the pedal it just tightens the belt on the pulley, reverse pedal tightens a different belt.

I imagine the hand brake locks the pedal so as not to burn the belts out.

The Kubota deck is shaft driven and I think drive is hydrostatic, but I don't really know much more than that. The cutting deck is belt driven, but that area seems to be working fine. Pretty sure it's a linkage now I've had a sit down and thought about it. I am inclined to panic!! :D
 

agrimax

Member
Location
Co Down
I think there will be a short shaft coming out of the side of the hydrostatic unit with a linkage bracket slid over the shaft and a bolt or roll pin through it. Pin or bolt possibly sheared... May even be a woodruff key has sheared on the shaft. The shaft turns with the pedal movement to give F/N/R.
 

Dry Rot

Member
Livestock Farmer
I think there will be a short shaft coming out of the side of the hydrostatic unit with a linkage bracket slid over the shaft and a bolt or roll pin through it. Pin or bolt possibly sheared... May even be a woodruff key has sheared on the shaft. The shaft turns with the pedal movement to give F/N/R.

Spot on! Broken ball and socket joint on the speed change rod. All I need now is a third hand and double joints to get in the space Screen Shot 2021-06-13 at 17.05.23.jpg. Got the beggar off anyway and a new part order from Hughie Willet. It was fun getting back to the shed in reverse at snail's pace! Thank you again. :)
 

Dave W

Member
Location
chesterfield
The gr1600 has known drive issues. The shaft from engine to hydro should be telescopic but seizes up from not being serviced and can result in gearbox damage.
Not saying this is the issue here but needs looking at while you're pulling apart
 

Dry Rot

Member
Livestock Farmer
The gr1600 has known drive issues. The shaft from engine to hydro should be telescopic but seizes up from not being serviced and can result in gearbox damage.
Not saying this is the issue here but needs looking at while you're pulling apart

No, that's not an issue with the mower, it's an issue with the owner! :ROFLMAO:
 

7610 super q

Never Forgotten
Honorary Member
The gr1600 has known drive issues. The shaft from engine to hydro should be telescopic but seizes up from not being serviced and can result in gearbox damage.
Not saying this is the issue here but needs looking at while you're pulling apart
What best to lubricate it with, oil or grease ?
 

icanshootwell

Member
Location
Ross-on-wye
Think there's a grease nipple on the outer. Don't think it matters what you use. It just never gets done unless service man knows what to look for
Dave, saw this on ebay, are they any good, looking for a mower to cut reasonable area including our lawn, some of the ground would not be perfectly flat.
 

Dave W

Member
Location
chesterfield
Dave, saw this on ebay, are they any good, looking for a mower to cut reasonable area including our lawn, some of the ground would not be perfectly flat.
Good machines. Just be aware cylinder mowers need a lot of upkeep and maintenance. Most local authorities have gone to rotaries or flail heads being cheaper to run and more idiot proof. Plus cylinder mowers struggle to cut anything longer than 4 or 5 inch high.

Personally I wouldn't want to spend anywhere that money on a triple. Slightly older ones can be had for £1500-3000. And it leaves a bit in the pot to refurb each head.
the engines and transmissions etc are usually ultra reliable
 

icanshootwell

Member
Location
Ross-on-wye
Probably won,t bother with a cylinder one, like you said long grass is a problem with them, at the moment were torn between a finishing topper that goes behind a small tractor or a ride on mower but has to be 4x4.
 

icanshootwell

Member
Location
Ross-on-wye
Think you'd have more joy with something like that. Just an example.

I did see that one, not sure it looks genuine plus looking for newer as it will be doing a lot of work, there are so many options to choose from and different specs/models, my heads hurting.
 

Dave W

Member
Location
chesterfield
I did see that one, not sure it looks genuine plus looking for newer as it will be doing a lot of work, there are so many options to choose from and different specs/models, my heads hurting.
I didn't really look at it too much.
Consider a flail head as well if you're in long grass. Definitely don't get a mulching deck.
Have a look in Brightwells. They get a lot of ex government and finance stuff in. Not far from you
 

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