Kuhn vs kverneland four furrow plough

balerman

Member
Location
N Devon
Cutting bits off the plough isn't going to fix the problem if they aren't causing it!!!!

Is the plough turnover lean angle correct? Is the plough pitch correct?

Is the front tyre outer track width the same as the rear outer track width?

Are you inadvertently turning the steering into the ploughing and causing the tractor and plough to run crabbed?

If you let go of the steering where does the tractor want to go, straight, out the fur, out into the ploughing?

What tyre pressures are you running? Are the tyres worn evenly? What percentage wheel slip are you getting? Is the diff lock engaged?

There's many, many things left to investigate, alter, and adjust before starting to cut bits off 🤣🤣🤣
I’m inclined to agree with this,it must be a tractor problem.Kuhn ploughs are simpler than most to set up,I certainly wouldn’t start cutting bits off.
 

DrDunc

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Dunsyre
I always thought it was the inner track width should be the same not outer.
Aye, then you have the ability to steer to straighten without destroying the side of the furrow with the tyre.

Front tyre outer edge "should" be running with a gap from the furrow landslide equal to the difference in width of the front and rear tyres, BUT the vast majority leave the dealer with the outer tracks set equal, and are never altered.

Then you get the "ploughmen" who insist on driving with a bit of steering wheel angle, causing the front tyres to constantly widen the furrow, and make the tractor crab.....

Or the ones that think it's ok to plough at 12kph, when they're actually only going forward at 6 and let the tyres dig the front furrow three inches deeper than the rest 🙄

Or the ones that can't get the fur to fully invert, so think the plough needs to lean over towards the ploughed ground. The really "good" ones will have different lean angles when ploughing left and conventional.

Then you've the "experts" who put the top link into a solid hole, run the lift arms in position setting instead of draught, keep the check chains rigid tight, and have three different makes and ages of tyres, all with different pressures 🥳

Perhaps there's a future in this "min tilling" fad after all? 😂
 

Joshherbert

Member
Livestock Farmer
Aye, then you have the ability to steer to straighten without destroying the side of the furrow with the tyre.

Front tyre outer edge "should" be running with a gap from the furrow landslide equal to the difference in width of the front and rear tyres, BUT the vast majority leave the dealer with the outer tracks set equal, and are never altered.

Then you get the "ploughmen" who insist on driving with a bit of steering wheel angle, causing the front tyres to constantly widen the furrow, and make the tractor crab.....

Or the ones that think it's ok to plough at 12kph, when they're actually only going forward at 6 and let the tyres dig the front furrow three inches deeper than the rest 🙄

Or the ones that can't get the fur to fully invert, so think the plough needs to lean over towards the ploughed ground. The really "good" ones will have different lean angles when ploughing left and conventional.

Then you've the "experts" who put the top link into a solid hole, run the lift arms in position setting instead of draught, keep the check chains rigid tight, and have three different makes and ages of tyres, all with different pressures 🥳

Perhaps there's a future in this "min tilling" fad after all? 😂
Yea I spend a few hours yesterday widening the front tyre width so it is now exactly as you have just suggested. For the rest of it…… 😂 I do like to think I slightly know what I’m doing haha. I am going to try running the check chains tight rather than free to move however to see if that stops the plough pulling to one side. Other than that I’ve got everything as a good ploughman would have it 😂
 

bravheart

Member
Location
scottish borders
Yea it alters the angle to bring the front furrow wider or narrower. It is currently set so that the front furrow is taking 18 inches.
that outside cylinder is set as short as it can go and so I can’t widen the plough any further to make the bodies sit straight
My rambling thoughts here.

OK thinking about a lemken dlx here with trulign and not sure your thinking is right.

Question (maybe missed it somewhere)
When you bought the plough what was the furrow width and any idea what tractor it was on and wheel size / width.

Both adjusters have Hydraulic rams on them which appears to be optional extras but may be confusing things here try thinking of them as manual adjustable rods till you get things pulling straight.

Ask because it looks like you have lengthened the threaded end of the inner turnbuckle. This turnbuckle on a lemken alters how the plough pulls behind the tractor and my thinking is now the wheel settings are right put it back to where it was and start from there. Once you've got the plough pulling straight behind the tractor then the outer turnbuckle can be adjusted to get the front furrow width set but you need to get things pulling straight on the inner adjuster first.
 
Hey guys.
I’m still having this issue with the Kuhn MM 113 which I have just bought second hand. Ploughing at 18 inches. I have the plough set exactly to the stickers for my wheel base width. Outer ram has no spacers and the thread is 0mm. The inside ram is set at 40mm.
the issue is is that the plough doesn’t run parallel to the tractor. The land raises are not parallel to the tractor I’m saying. And yes the plough is 90 degrees to the ground. The points are pointing towards the unploughed land and therefore it it pulling to one side and the front furrows aren’t matching up due to that. The front furrow is set to run at 18 inches, the exact same as the other furrows. But yea. Basically I cannot physically get the main beam angled enough to make the landslides run parallel to the tractor. I’ll post photos. But I really don’t know what to!!!! And I’m not enjoying the ploughing at the moment. I have no clue what to try so any thoughts would help so much.
the last photo shows how the landslide is angled in comparison to the furrow. And the photo of the rams shows that they are set toa wheel spacing on the tractor of less than 130cm. The wheel spacing on the Massey is 127cm
the last 3 pics
if you have the settings on the stickers as per you wheel width the adjustment rams should be about halfway on their travel
in the pics the inner is full extended and the outer full retracted
 
So I adjusted L1 slightly which made the front furrow then plough at less than 18 inches. But I’ve also tried a couple other things since then. I’ve adjusted the front wheel widths on the tractor ant put more air in the rear tires as well as more weight on the front of the tractor so that the rear tyres have narrower (ie they’re tighter so that they fit in the furrow better) and all of that has fixed the problem to a degree.
I’m actually debating getting the grinder out and cutting the fixed spacer off of the outside ram? So that the cylinder can close further and therefore bring the plough around further? From looking, I don’t think the cylinder is at its full stroke when it hits that permanent stopper so potentially it would allow it to close further? I’ll show what I mean.
i see the problem
have you the sliver part of the inner ram set to 40mm?? if so thats the issue,theres thread further on that ram that needs to be 40mm
 

Joshherbert

Member
Livestock Farmer
It should only be 20mm if you've standard wheel width spacing, which you posted earlier that both of your tractors are set at (130 and 127cm if I recall correctly)
Nah it should be 40mm for anything below 135cm. The problem would be exaggerated if I wound that cylinder in.
 

balerman

Member
Location
N Devon
This is what my 122 is set at if any help,and it ploughs perfect.Set at 14 inch btw,any problems you have will be exaggerated at 18 inch.
 

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DrDunc

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Dunsyre
Nah it should be 40mm for anything below 135cm. The problem would be exaggerated if I wound that cylinder in.
Aye apologies, looked back at the pics of the manual you posted and see that it says L2 should be 40mm. The links lengths L1 and L3 MUST also be to the size in the manual, are they?

If the plough linkage dimensions are all correct, then it's either the tractor setup, or it's the wrong manual 🙄😂
 

Joshherbert

Member
Livestock Farmer
Aye apologies, looked back at the pics of the manual you posted and see that it says L2 should be 40mm. The links lengths L1 and L3 MUST also be to the size in the manual, are they?

If the plough linkage dimensions are all correct, then it's either the tractor setup, or it's the wrong manual 🙄😂
I’d say it’s tractor at this point
 

Joshherbert

Member
Livestock Farmer
Aye apologies, looked back at the pics of the manual you posted and see that it says L2 should be 40mm. The links lengths L1 and L3 MUST also be to the size in the manual, are they?

If the plough linkage dimensions are all correct, then it's either the tractor setup, or it's the wrong manual 🙄😂
Yea they are the size the manual states.
thank you for your help though
 

Jamer

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Glos
Is the plough straightening on the outer ram before turning over and then returning to width after turning? - Just thought it’s not a sequencing valve problem is it?
 

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