Lathe, mills, drills, slotters, shapers and grinders (not angle grinders)

8DDB9C7D-5F81-4315-A31B-BBE4CAE1367D.png
D7C82F4D-C803-4D67-9984-0D09A6811047.png
I did a stupid thing...
costing as much to get them from the south up to Pitlochry.
 

Karliboy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
West Yorkshire
We had a grinder like that years ago at work and we couldn’t sell it so went for scrap. Was a good machine to but no use to anyone. New ones are so much smaller now to do same size job.
don’t know about engraving machine.
 

Fendtbro

Member
Used the old Cincinnati today for first time in a long while!!
Cut a slot in some old rusty 30mm square bar then cleaned all four faces up. Cut them up then into 50mm pieces.
View attachment 854947

View attachment 854946
View attachment 854948

Any guesses what they will be?
I’m looking at a big old Cincinnati mill, I need to bore through some fairly big components to rebush them. Is the mill suitable for taking out bores of say right through 30ton digger hitch in one go?
 

Karliboy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
West Yorkshire
I’m looking at a big old Cincinnati mill, I need to bore through some fairly big components to rebush them. Is the mill suitable for taking out bores of say right through 30ton digger hitch in one go?

Anything is possible within reason.
How long is the bore in the hitch and how big is the mill what dia are the bushes.
What size is the arbour in the mill
 

Swarfmonkey

Member
Location
Hampshire
As @Karliboy says, need a bit more info. Which model of Cincinnati mill is it, and what's the rough dimensions of the hitch? That way I can work out if the mill has enough space between spindle and table to take the boring head, boring bar, and the part itself.

Have to admit that I'd be looking for a HBM to do that kind of thing.
 

Fendtbro

Member
As @Karliboy says, need a bit more info. Which model of Cincinnati mill is it, and what's the rough dimensions of the hitch? That way I can work out if the mill has enough space between spindle and table to take the boring head, boring bar, and the part itself.

Have to admit that I'd be looking for a HBM to do that kind of thing.
It’s
As @Karliboy says, need a bit more info. Which model of Cincinnati mill is it, and what's the rough dimensions of the hitch? That way I can work out if the mill has enough space between spindle and table to take the boring head, boring bar, and the part itself.

Have to admit that I'd be looking for a HBM to do that kind of thing.
it’s a 210-14- vt.. looks to be fairly big but after some measurements it can go up to 430mm so over 100mm less than my biggest part. But should manage the other jobs that need to be line bored. Am I better with a proper boring machine? And it has to be cheap! And accurate!!
 

Swarfmonkey

Member
Location
Hampshire
Yeah, that's not going to do what you want of it. You'd need at least 750mm between spindle and table to allow enough clearance for part, boring bar, and boring head. It really is the kind of job that HBM's excel at, though finding one - especially an accurate one - that's cheap would be quite a challenge.

A possible alternative is to use a between-centres boring bar on a lathe. That's assuming you've got access to a big 'ole lathe with enough swing and a saddle that's amenable to being bodged around with in order to clamp the part down. Setup time would be a nightmare, but it's an old trick that does work in a pinch.
 

Fendtbro

Member
Would a radial arm drill not be more suitable?
My pal recommended that.. holding the bottom of the boring bar with a bearing. Should work?
Yeah, that's not going to do what you want of it. You'd need at least 750mm between spindle and table to allow enough clearance for part, boring bar, and boring head. It really is the kind of job that HBM's excel at, though finding one - especially an accurate one - that's cheap would be quite a challenge.

A possible alternative is to use a between-centres boring bar on a lathe. That's assuming you've got access to a big 'ole lathe with enough swing and a saddle that's amenable to being bodged around with in order to clamp the part down. Setup time would be a nightmare, but it's an old trick that does work in a pinch.
got a big old lathe and I like the idea of supporting the boring bar at each end but bolting the parts to the saddle sounds difficult or impossible . Is a mill suitable For taking out bores? The problem is I need a massive one to get these parts in.
 

Swarfmonkey

Member
Location
Hampshire
It is time consuming to set up and you'd probably end up having to manufacture some fixtures to do it. It's an old trick, but done properly it's extremely accurate. Used to know an old boy that did precisely that in order to bore steam cylinders for his resto projects (mostly steam launches).

There is another trick, but again it relies on the having access to the right kit to do the job, namely a mill with a universal head. Rotate head to 90 degrees, fit boring head, clamp part to table then use the X axis power feed. You'd need an adjustable power feed and it won't be as accurate as between centres-boring would be, but it'll be good enough assuming you use a sufficiently rigid boring bar.
 

SFI - What % were you taking out of production?

  • 0 %

    Votes: 79 42.0%
  • Up to 25%

    Votes: 66 35.1%
  • 25-50%

    Votes: 30 16.0%
  • 50-75%

    Votes: 3 1.6%
  • 75-100%

    Votes: 3 1.6%
  • 100% I’ve had enough of farming!

    Votes: 7 3.7%

Red Tractor drops launch of green farming scheme amid anger from farmers

  • 1,292
  • 1
As reported in Independent


quote: “Red Tractor has confirmed it is dropping plans to launch its green farming assurance standard in April“

read the TFF thread here: https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/gfc-was-to-go-ahead-now-not-going-ahead.405234/
Top