Led lights😠

[scotston]

Well I phoned him on wednesday, he said send me the shed dimensions (Thursday) and I've not heard back. No online store, manufactured to order which is enough to convince me to buy them. I suspect they will need paid up front too. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

[Grassman]

My sheep shed has 8ft flourescents in. They have been fitted 40 years and I think they were 20 years old when I fitted them!
One is messing about so a new tube needed. I was thinking of replacing them all with led not sure what i would gain.

 

[zyklon]

Led is cheaper to run, brighter and doesn’t lose its brightness as each year goes by Like fluorescents.

 

[rob h]

We recently did a shed with 5ft florescent lights down 1 side using a mixture of old and new that we had kicking arround. Then put new led baton lights 5ft down the other side.the led is much brighter and uses less electric.

 

[Clive]

Just a frustrated rant... Put up a new cattle shed last year. Put led strip lights in as well as 2 little led bulk head lights for night lights. The lights haven't even been running a full year yet and were of during the summer as the cattle were out. Now the cattle are back in the 2 led bulk head lights have packed in. I thought after reading about led lights they were to be the dogs rubbish and not need to be replaced very often, but after this and having ordinary bayonet led light bulbs lasting no time all in old buildings they seem to be pretty pathetic. Round up of this post is.... why are led lights crap??

Buy cheap and BUY twice ! very true of LED lights

for buildings buy Luxum and for auto buy UTV - more expensive but they will last

Luxam

Search results

www.marketplace.farm

UTV

Search results

www.marketplace.farm

I have lots of both these brands on-farm for several years now and have never had a failure yet

 

[Exfarmer]

Just an update. When the OP posted the original question , I responded that my experience of LEDs was very different having virtually all LED lightning in my house for the last 10 years with very few issues.
i then posted that I had lost a bulb the next day
we have nearly 50 of a type widely available which was termed GU 11 then. This is a 12 volt bulb .
at the time the 5 watt bulbs replaced 50 watt halogen and to be honest they were not as bright, but hassle free and ran near cold so no fire risk which the others certainly were!
looking on line , I found replacing these bulbs was not easy, it seemed the major makes no longer touched a universal bulb. Philips etc were concentrating on the speciality market where they could make money, leaving the general purpose market to Chinese bulbs. So far I have found no other wide angle 600 lumen soft white bulbs.
this is a concern, as anyone with these 12 volt bulbs knows to revert to 240 means extracting the inverters behind the downlighter ceiling fittings. Nearly every time you pull out the fitting does serious damage to the hole in the plasterboard, meaning the fitting will not hold up again.
so began a search for a bulb, because we know that after 10 years the life of the remaining bulbs cannot be that long and we only have a couple of spares.
so first bulbs we found courtesy of Amazon guaranteed flicker free with 25,000 hour life was placed in fitting, turned on and the bulb began a flicker disco show. I suspect it was a dc bulb and these inverters are AC
so they were returned
next lot were quite expensive again flicker free AC and suitable for all general use so were purchased. This bulb was really good , good light quality, no flicker except it was a very narrow. angle spot
So they were returned.
the maker offered me another, guaranteed wide angle good light like the last . So 20 were ordered with the intention of ordering more If the met the promise.
they turned up last night and were fitted this morning . The kitchen uses 15 and really looked good no flicker.
we did not need d them during the day as the kitchen is south facing . i went off this afternoon but about 4.15 my wife rang, she said the kitchen is like christmas. Returned to find bulbs 9 had blown and it was obvious the others were not far away by there popping and flashing
Can any one point me towards a GU11 or now called MR 16 bulb which will last longer than 1 Hour?
thankfully I had not thrown the old ones away

 

[fermerboy]

I have a couple of 150w Metal halides that have failed, its not the bulb but the actual ballast/transformer thats gone.
They are mounted about 25ft up in the pitch of a steel shed.

What size of Led would be an equivalent light replacement?

 

[335d]

Just an update. When the OP posted the original question , I responded that my experience of LEDs was very different having virtually all LED lightning in my house for the last 10 years with very few issues.
i then posted that I had lost a bulb the next day
we have nearly 50 of a type widely available which was termed GU 11 then. This is a 12 volt bulb .
at the time the 5 watt bulbs replaced 50 watt halogen and to be honest they were not as bright, but hassle free and ran near cold so no fire risk which the others certainly were!
looking on line , I found replacing these bulbs was not easy, it seemed the major makes no longer touched a universal bulb. Philips etc were concentrating on the speciality market where they could make money, leaving the general purpose market to Chinese bulbs. So far I have found no other wide angle 600 lumen soft white bulbs.
this is a concern, as anyone with these 12 volt bulbs knows to revert to 240 means extracting the inverters behind the downlighter ceiling fittings. Nearly every time you pull out the fitting does serious damage to the hole in the plasterboard, meaning the fitting will not hold up again.
so began a search for a bulb, because we know that after 10 years the life of the remaining bulbs cannot be that long and we only have a couple of spares.
so first bulbs we found courtesy of Amazon guaranteed flicker free with 25,000 hour life was placed in fitting, turned on and the bulb began a flicker disco show. I suspect it was a dc bulb and these inverters are AC
so they were returned
next lot were quite expensive again flicker free AC and suitable for all general use so were purchased. This bulb was really good , good light quality, no flicker except it was a very narrow. angle spot
So they were returned.
the maker offered me another, guaranteed wide angle good light like the last . So 20 were ordered with the intention of ordering more If the met the promise.
they turned up last night and were fitted this morning . The kitchen uses 15 and really looked good no flicker.
we did not need d them during the day as the kitchen is south facing . i went off this afternoon but about 4.15 my wife rang, she said the kitchen is like christmas. Returned to find bulbs 9 had blown and it was obvious the others were not far away by there popping and flashing
Can any one point me towards a GU11 or now called MR 16 bulb which will last longer than 1 Hour?
thankfully I had not thrown the old ones away

I tried a few of the mr16‘s a few years ago and didn’t like them.
As I had a few transformers giving issues, I just removed the transformers and replaced for 240v gu10’s. I know what you mean about removing the fittings. Luckily the kitchen was single storey so was able to go above and remove them carefully.
Although the down lights that were fitted were very large diameter, and I had limited choice over replacements, without fitting an adapter plate.
Not what you want to hear, but I think mr16 bulbs have had there day

 

[Hilly]

My sheep shed has 8ft flourescents in. They have been fitted 40 years and I think they were 20 years old when I fitted them!
One is messing about so a new tube needed. I was thinking of replacing them all with led not sure what i would gain.

A smaller electricity bill , fluorescents use hell of electric on start up especially old ones

 

[upnortheast]

I have a couple of 150w Metal halides that have failed, its not the bulb but the actual ballast/transformer thats gone.
They are mounted about 25ft up in the pitch of a steel shed.

What size of Led would be an equivalent light replacement?

Conversions on this link. Suggests 75 led would replace 150w metal halide

LED Equivalent Wattages Against Traditional Lighting – LED Hut

LED equivalent wattages to traditional light sources can only be approximate, as they will vary depending on the colour temperature and quality of the bulbs being compared, but you can use the comparison charts here as a starting point to finding out the LED equivalents for the light source you...

ledhut.co.uk

 

[simon-0116]

Just an update. When the OP posted the original question , I responded that my experience of LEDs was very different having virtually all LED lightning in my house for the last 10 years with very few issues.
i then posted that I had lost a bulb the next day
we have nearly 50 of a type widely available which was termed GU 11 then. This is a 12 volt bulb .
at the time the 5 watt bulbs replaced 50 watt halogen and to be honest they were not as bright, but hassle free and ran near cold so no fire risk which the others certainly were!
looking on line , I found replacing these bulbs was not easy, it seemed the major makes no longer touched a universal bulb. Philips etc were concentrating on the speciality market where they could make money, leaving the general purpose market to Chinese bulbs. So far I have found no other wide angle 600 lumen soft white bulbs.
this is a concern, as anyone with these 12 volt bulbs knows to revert to 240 means extracting the inverters behind the downlighter ceiling fittings. Nearly every time you pull out the fitting does serious damage to the hole in the plasterboard, meaning the fitting will not hold up again.
so began a search for a bulb, because we know that after 10 years the life of the remaining bulbs cannot be that long and we only have a couple of spares.
so first bulbs we found courtesy of Amazon guaranteed flicker free with 25,000 hour life was placed in fitting, turned on and the bulb began a flicker disco show. I suspect it was a dc bulb and these inverters are AC
so they were returned
next lot were quite expensive again flicker free AC and suitable for all general use so were purchased. This bulb was really good , good light quality, no flicker except it was a very narrow. angle spot
So they were returned.
the maker offered me another, guaranteed wide angle good light like the last . So 20 were ordered with the intention of ordering more If the met the promise.
they turned up last night and were fitted this morning . The kitchen uses 15 and really looked good no flicker.
we did not need d them during the day as the kitchen is south facing . i went off this afternoon but about 4.15 my wife rang, she said the kitchen is like christmas. Returned to find bulbs 9 had blown and it was obvious the others were not far away by there popping and flashing
Can any one point me towards a GU11 or now called MR 16 bulb which will last longer than 1 Hour?
thankfully I had not thrown the old ones away

Did you change transformers to led drivers.its not really cost-effective to do it.
Cheaper to swap fitting to 240v led bulbs.

 

[simon-0116]

I have a couple of 150w Metal halides that have failed, its not the bulb but the actual ballast/transformer thats gone.
They are mounted about 25ft up in the pitch of a steel shed.

What size of Led would be an equivalent light replacement?

80w led

 

[Exfarmer]

Did you change transformers to led drivers.its not really cost-effective to do it.
Cheaper to swap fitting to 240v led bulbs.

Did not change transformers. We have used 5 watt LEDs in these fittings with the same transformer for 10 years. The transformers are rated up to 60 watts. They are 12 volt AC. I am aware that some LEDs only work with DC
i would happily rip out the transformers and put in GU10 bulbs but the damage to the ceilings taking out the fittings is just not worth it, if we can get away with it.
I expect the time will come when we have to consider replacing the lot and consider replastering the ceiling

 

[scotston]

Did not change transformers. We have used 5 watt LEDs in these fittings with the same transformer for 10 years. The transformers are rated up to 60 watts. They are 12 volt AC. I am aware that some LEDs only work with DC
i would happily rip out the transformers and put in GU10 bulbs but the damage to the ceilings taking out the fittings is just not worth it, if we can get away with it.
I expect the time will come when we have to consider replacing the lot and consider replastering the ceiling

I have Halers as my downlighters in kitchen, utility etc. They're pretty expensive at around £22 each but come with a 7 yr warranty if you register on the website. I started to change the kitchen units (2) around year 6 that are the most used. Took them back to the merchants and picked up replacements without argument. Changed a couple this year not under warranty in year 8. Not a great endorsement but happy enough to rebuy. Lots of choices of light colour and beam angle. The thing is they come as a one piece unit with the driver at 90 degrees. Looks like a 60mm hole saw needed but the total diameter of the faceplate is 85mm. Just thinking that if you haul out the old ones and the ceiling is a bit ragged, this would cover quite a bit of mess. There's a bezel and diffusion screen to clip in to finish.

 

[scotston]

I've paid for my new grain shed lights. Boys from Agron were waiting for a lighting design based on shed dimensions before spec'ing. Interesting that the design criteria was 130-150 lux at head height (1.75m) That was everywhere. I have a lux meter for my chook sheds and 100 lux is pretty bright! I have halved the number of units from 8 to 4 and will see if I'm happy once installed. Can always add more. Lights are 80w at 154 lumens per watt at £137 ea. Also ordered a couple of 80w floodlights at a pretty meaty £184 ea for the outside. Better exceed the 5 yr warranty! Hopefully take a very overexposed picture once they're up.

 

[Exfarmer]

I have Halers as my downlighters in kitchen, utility etc. They're pretty expensive at around £22 each but come with a 7 yr warranty if you register on the website. I started to change the kitchen units (2) around year 6 that are the most used. Took them back to the merchants and picked up replacements without argument. Changed a couple this year not under warranty in year 8. Not a great endorsement but happy enough to rebuy. Lots of choices of light colour and beam angle. The thing is they come as a one piece unit with the driver at 90 degrees. Looks like a 60mm hole saw needed but the total diameter of the faceplate is 85mm. Just thinking that if you haul out the old ones and the ceiling is a bit ragged, this would cover quite a bit of mess. There's a bezel and diffusion screen to clip in to finish.

I am not sure why you want to complicate things with a separate driver?
just more to go wrong in my view.
I think as the plasterboard gets older it is more likely to crumble.
We had had a couple of halogen bulbs burn out their fittings when it was all nearly new. These were replaced and LEDs installed which at the time cost a small fortune.
Recently I took a couple of fittings out and the damage to the ceilings was totally unacceptable so decided to try upgrading the bulbs, but this has so far not proved possible.
We run 240v 8 watt dimmable GU10s in our new orangery and would love to upgrade the kitchen to these but we if we could just find a wide angle MR16/GU11 also GU5.3 bulb of 550+ lumen it would be an simple alternative

 

[335d]

Did not change transformers. We have used 5 watt LEDs in these fittings with the same transformer for 10 years. The transformers are rated up to 60 watts. They are 12 volt AC. I am aware that some LEDs only work with DC
i would happily rip out the transformers and put in GU10 bulbs but the damage to the ceilings taking out the fittings is just not worth it, if we can get away with it.
I expect the time will come when we have to consider replacing the lot and consider replastering the ceiling

on some of the down lights, you can see the holding springs when you remove the bulb. If you could reach in with a screwdriver and ping the spring off, it should be possible to remove the fitting with minimal damage. You may lose a few springs in the void, but no worries as you wouldn’t need them with your new fitting

 

[scotston]

I am not sure why you want to complicate things with a separate driver?
just more to go wrong in my view.
I think as the plasterboard gets older it is more likely to crumble.
We had had a couple of halogen bulbs burn out their fittings when it was all nearly new. These were replaced and LEDs installed which at the time cost a small fortune.
Recently I took a couple of fittings out and the damage to the ceilings was totally unacceptable so decided to try upgrading the bulbs, but this has so far not proved possible.
We run 240v 8 watt dimmable GU10s in our new orangery and would love to upgrade the kitchen to these but we if we could just find a wide angle MR16/GU11 also GU5.3 bulb of 550+ lumen it would be an simple alternative

I get your point but in my limited knowledge of LED's it's the driver that goes wrong most of the time and that's due to poor heat sink/cheap chips. The fact that the haler has a separate driver, and it's huge, is supposed to mean better reliability as it is separate from the LED. Remember that all LED's need a driver of some sort with lamps like MR16/GU10 just has it built in. This then relies on the lamp 'package' to have a well designed heat sink that can dissipate the heat but without being too cumbersome in the fitting.

 

[carpenter1]

Where is best to get a quality 10w sensored flood light?
I have big luxum ones but they dont do small ones

 

[zyklon]

10w is more often seen as a wall light than a floodlight. What is it’s purpose?