Lely tedder question

[scrubbuster]

I have a Lely 770 which is a great machine unfortunately the same can't be said for the book that came with it! From time to time when you lift at the end it sticks in the angled position and stays there until it jumps free with a nasty bang. I think the spring must need adjustment by the 2 nuts but not wanting to play about until I know. The book shows nothing about it. Many thanks

 

[eagleye]

not supposed to lift at the end!
when you lift it locks in position, until you set down then it releases.......

 

[scrubbuster]

Really? I never knew that. So meant to turn on the ends with it on the deck?

 

[Jontym]

You need to carry on straight while lifting, or it will try to “crab” when you lower it back into work until the tractor arms drop low enough to let the spring loaded pin to release (with a bang).

 

[scrubbuster]

You need to carry on straight while lifting, or it will try to “crab” when you lower it back into work until the tractor arms drop low enough to let the spring loaded pin to release (with a bang).

So they all do it? That's fine will try and lift sharper. Don't fancy leaving it down and over tedding the end rig

 

[rusty]

How can you over ted the end rig?
We have a Lely 770 and in silage do one lap around the outside(but missing the outside row). Then go up and down leaving it down on the headland. Try and miss 2 runs so turns are not to sharp and work across the field in blocks.

 

[eagleye]

if you lift it, the grass will have thrown back maybe 3m leaving a "hole" with no grass.
On setting down it will do the opposite throwing grass back onto headland so you endup with lumpy uneven headland. I usually do headlands again after to dry them quicker as these will be first raked and baled.
With the lely 1020 trailed we do every other run going across the field and when we get to the far end come back doing the runs we "missed" leaving us back at the gate.

 

[Boohoo]

Over tedding the ends won't be a problem, but extra wear on the machine, heaps of grass, bare patches and grass being slower to dry because it's been run over will be.

 

[DeeGee]

I always leave the 770 down in trailed position, headlands then done again at the end to make sure everything gets scattered at least once. No harm at all in double tedding, the more the grass is scattered and smashed up the better for drying IMO.

 

[Monty]

Huh? If you don't lift at the ends it will just chuck all of the grass into the hedge each time you turn and leave bare patches in the inner radius of where you turn. We always lift ours at the ends and never notice much unevenness when raking headlands with generally 2-3 tedder passes. If you look at the tedder as it goes along it is moving forwards quickly as the grass is being chucked backwards so in effect doesn't really get thrown all that far back relative to the ground. We usually ted at 10-12kph so maybe that helps.

As above you need to drive straight as you lift the tedder up so it locks into the straight position. Don't worry about a bit of banging either. It won't do any harm. If there's a problem, check that the rod with the big spring on hasn't unscrewed out of the hollow slotted cylinder bit (bottom of rod should be flush with the top of the inside) and make sure the pin screwed into the bottom of the hollow cylinder hasn't come loose either. Both of these can will cause problems with the locking mechanism and the pin is ridiculously expensive if it comes out completely and you lose it.

 

[Boohoo]

Huh? If you don't lift at the ends it will just chuck all of the grass into the hedge each time you turn and leave bare patches in the inner radius of where you turn. We always lift ours at the ends and never notice much unevenness when raking headlands with generally 2-3 tedder passes. If you look at the tedder as it goes along it is moving forwards quickly as the grass is being chucked backwards so in effect doesn't really get thrown all that far back relative to the ground. We usually ted at 10-12kph so maybe that helps.

As above you need to drive straight as you lift the tedder up so it locks into the straight position. Don't worry about a bit of banging either. It won't do any harm. If there's a problem, check that the rod with the big spring on hasn't unscrewed out of the hollow slotted cylinder bit (bottom of rod should be flush with the top of the inside) and make sure the pin screwed into the bottom of the hollow cylinder hasn't come loose either. Both of these can will cause problems with the locking mechanism and the pin is ridiculously expensive if it comes out completely and you lose it.

If you're chucking grass into the hedge and leaving bare patches on the inside of the turn you're turning too sharp and too close to the hedge. I only lift the tedder when I get back to the gate

 

[Henarar]

just go round and round missing a bit on the corners then run down the corners once you get to the middle

 

[jonny]

Does anyone bother to turn the tines in on the outside run or just miss the first swarth instead ?

 

[Boohoo]

Does anyone bother to turn the tines in on the outside run or just miss the first swarth instead ?

I move the tines. Do the outside last on the first field, first in the second, last in the third etc. Means you only have to move tines every other field.

 

[jonny]

I move the tines. Do the outside last on the first field, first in the second, last in the third etc. Means you only have to move tines every other field.

Same here but I’ve seen some that don’t bother and it doesn’t look pretty

 

[eagleye]

we have heavy crops of haylage and first run thru is slow to spread any lumps, toplink shorter to throw grass up a bit and get bottom of stem on top. with every following run you can go a bit faster and flatten the tedder.
we can tedd twice a day for 4 days to get to right moisture to bale. always turn tines in for hedge run.
unless for silage and then dont do that sward at all. keeps rake out of hedge and reduces risk of stones for harvester (on instructions from contractor!)
he wanted me to tedd as i go slow and do headlands twice (on turning and after to finish) in preference to another guy who went faster and didnt shake it all out even though I charge more (NAAC rate)

 

[jonny]

Front of main gearbox on my 675 where pto shaft goes on is getting fairly warm lately Just wondering is there bearings about to give bother or is this normal?

 

[The Agrarian]

Hi guys and girls. We replaced all the bearings on our 770 and all the keys on the drive shafts to try to get it as tight as possible. Happy enough with that, though still a bit of play in the rotors.

The main question is that we seem to have a difficulty setting a couple of the rotors in the right positions without having arms and tines clicking. Have moved the rotors a tooth each way to see if we can better it, but the engineering just seems to be off in that there doesn't seem to be a perfect tooth setting to allow perfect centering of the arms with their neighbours. Anyone else had this problem?