Liquid metal,,(whatever its called)

[Mursal]

Ok, but don't leave them sticking up, put them in like you would the originals, tighten down with an allen key, then tighten the nut. Not the tidiest, but it does work. Especially if you put a bit of locktite on the threads .............

The nut mightn't be a good fit in the cover, so bespoke spacers might be needed, called washers.
Save you spending to see if you like the saw.

 

[Lincs Lass]

Chuck it in the bin , nobody gives a good chainsaw away.

It runs perfectly ,,the mechanics are sound ,its a Jonsered 2165 turbo ,,not the american CS model which were rubbish ,they are as rare as hens teeth

 

[Mursal]

You can see the repair on this saw with the longer studs and the nut. Clean the very bottom of the holes well to get all the rubbish out.

 

[tinman]

looks like an awkward one this.

out of all id say Ace's solution isnt a bad idea, worst case scenario you havnt made things much worse if it dosent work and altho ive never used liquid metal the wurth stuff is good quality so you have some hope.
id be liking some form of grip for it when its poured into the hole, likes of a track of a wood screw thread or something of any kind that would leave it with some form of a key to hold it in place iykwim.
if it was here id probably be widening out some of the hole on the bottom of the side with land to spare using a small die grinder and a ball head so after you poured in the schmoo and tapped it again as you'd cautiously tighten the screw up it wouldn't look to pull out as handy but you need tools for that.

as for a tap, go to the bay and pick up a quality set of taps, likes of dormer, golliath, presto or such if your going down that road, they will get you into a lot less trouble than the cheaper tap n die sets trust me and going by the pic youd probably need a long range tapping handle as well..

if you got it filled use the cover as a drill guide to spot the center of the hole, then remove it and slowly drill it to size with a new correct sized 4mm tapping drill.
or, you could see if there was someone handy with a tig and let them grind out some of the wall and weld it all up again, thats a more permanent job if it ill take weld and could cost as much as the wurth stuff which is a gamble but may work.

 

[Dry Rot]

Thread inserts?

Do they come in 4mm

Yes, they do (apparently).

Google "4mm helicoil" and several references come up.

 

[A1an]

Done this very thing to an old Husky, fill it, drill it, tap it. Just do one at a time and use the cover as a guide for the drill whilst it’s held down by the other two bolts.

I put the liquid metal in a syringe and injected it in to the hole. I can’t remember what the metal was, it was a 2pk and came in an orange tub. It’s still holding but if you didn’t know just to ‘nip’ them up I get the feeling you could strip them.

 

[Kevm]

JB weld will do this easy, mix it up warm and warm the hole with a heat gun or hair dryer till it goes runny, give it a good prod about in the hole with a pin or someting.
Leave it to set somewhere warm, sand flush, redrill and tap, easy.

 

[Mursal]

Any word?

 

[Lincs Lass]

Any word?

Slight amount of success ,got a two part pack from ag merchants ,,two holes have held ,,as its only the top cover it will hold on two screws ,,other than that ,for a 20 yr old saw it runs very well now that its burnt the years of duff 2stroke mix out,,first 10 minutes was abit smokey but abit of carb tweaking and XP oil mix ,it runs as well as my 365