Loader valve block seals

Discussion in 'Classic Machinery' started by Alistair, Nov 14, 2017 at 11:27 AM.

  1. Alistair

    Alistair Member

    Location:
    Southwest Scotland
    My valve bock is off a 1983 IH 685 with a Quicke 2560 loader.

    At the moment the muck tines drop when in use which is a nuisance and the loader arms also drop when parked up. So I wanted to change the seals

    The big question is how do you change the seals?

    My other thoughts are is this something that can be done in a basic workshop and do I need any specialist tools?

    Thanks IMG_0789.JPG
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2017 at 11:36 AM
  2. Alistair

    Alistair Member

    Location:
    Southwest Scotland
    IMG_0791.JPG More photos IMG_0790.JPG IMG_0799.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Fuzzy

    Fuzzy Member

    Location:
    Bedfordshire
    Find a nice clear workbench !!!!

    Remove cap 6 by undoing the two capscrews. Remove the lever 1 (careful not to break the aluminum parts !) and the capscrews. The shaft should then be removed from the rear (cap6 end) being careful not to damage it!
    Repeat cap 7 and 8 etc. Do not mix up parts between spool !

    Then either measure up and order parts you need online or take to your local bearing/seal/hydraulic supplier for them to measure and supply all the o ring/seals you need.
    Make sure you replace all seals/ o rings including dowty seals under couplings.
     
    Alistair likes this.
  4. gatepost

    gatepost Member

    Location:
    Cotswolds
    As above , but just check the o ring on the relief valve which should be, looks like no9.
     
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  5. kill

    kill Member

    Location:
    South West
    Before you start are you 100% sure it's not your tilt ram seals causing your problem? Just put weight on the forks and pull your pipes off the connectors to check and if fork still drops it's ram seals
     
  6. I'd check this 1st as said(y)(y)
     
  7. Mr Happy

    Mr Happy Member

    Location:
    Norwich
    As previous posts say check it's not the cylinder seals that are worn. It looks like there are three double acting work sections on the mono block valve, might be worth swapping the hydraulic pipes from one section to another to see what happens. If it's the spool valve that's fault it not worth changing the spool end seals. This because the spool and the spool valve body are worn allowing excessive internal leakage. Bin it and buy another one.
     
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  8. mikep

    mikep Member

    Seals in a spool valve? All metal to metal surely.
     
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  9. Alistair

    Alistair Member

    Location:
    Southwest Scotland
    IMG_0801.JPG
    You are very right metal to metal, I should have read your post first
     
  10. Alistair

    Alistair Member

    Location:
    Southwest Scotland
    Bin it and buy another one.[/QUOTE]
    Loooks like I am going to have to do this as internal wear
     

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