Massey 3095 loosey goosey gears...

jd24

Member
I have been on hear before about our 3095 but im after a bit more guidance please. We have a 1990 16 speed with the two gear levers ab forward back and 1234-slow fast.
I want to go on the road with it but the gear selector has got a bit sloppy like our old(older) db 1490. If im in 3rd and change to 4th it easy to not find the gear and can easily pull the other gear into neutral as you change. If i go on the road i dont want that happening as it want go back into forward until you pretty much stop. Not ideal if you have a trailer of muck behind....

I have looked at the gear selector bits below the step and everything is sloppy including the swivel balls etc. Is the a specialist thing to adjust / replace any of this. Done it on my ford focus and you can potentially mess the linkage up if your not careful.

Any guidance will be appreciated.
 

jd24

Member
The ball joint at the bottom almost pulls out as you wiggle it and there is loads of play onto the shaft that goes into the transmission. Im uploading a video and pic shortly
 

jd24

Member
20180223_071130.jpg
 

deere66

Member
Location
York
The cast piece you have your hand on in the video clamps to a shaft that goes into the side plate, there’s a grub screw to locate and lock it on. It’s most probably loose
Look so loose that a new screw may not be enough. Dare say some would weld it up:whistle:. IIRC there was an article in CT showing how to repair the linkage, will try to find it.
 

jd24

Member
I think age + living at a tarmac sand quarry all its life + no front mud guards have taken its toll. Poor thing did 8000hours and 27 years pulling a wetting down bowser until we saved it.
 

mo!

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
York
I think age + living at a tarmac sand quarry all its life + no front mud guards have taken its toll. Poor thing did 8000hours and 27 years pulling a wetting down bowser until we saved it.
Less than 300 hours per year. Easy life.
 

jd24

Member
Less than 300 hours per year. Easy life.
Totally agree but it was a sorry existence. The bowser had never been taken off the hitch by the looks of things and the lift arms had never moved. Took some serious freeing up and the usual broken wire under the step
 

jd24

Member
After relying on tightening just the grub screw for too long I finally renewed one of the gear linkages.
Drilled out to 14mm, fitted new bushes interference fit. 0.2 shim washer either side. Im considering doing the side to the casting that goes onto the selector shaft but i need i different boring bar for my lathe. However, this alone has made a huge difference.
 

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MF CI

Member
After relying on tightening just the grub screw for too long I finally renewed one of the gear linkages.
Drilled out to 14mm, fitted new bushes interference fit. 0.2 shim washer either side. Im considering doing the side to the casting that goes onto the selector shaft but i need i different boring bar for my lathe. However, this alone has made a huge difference.

Never had to bother with the little bit of slop in that bit. The big problem always is the inner square headed screw which secures the cast bit to the round shaft. The bottom of that screw is a taper fit into a tapered hole in the shaft (if you see what I mean) once the screw has come a bit loose and the tractor still used like that the hole in the shaft wears, tightening the screw will only be good for a short while because the taper on the screw and thr tapered hole no longer match up. Surprised the CT magazine article didn't mention that. On high houred tractors the shaft can wear the cast selector cover where the seal fits, later tractors (61 81 series) have a bush in there I think, 3000 series didn't but a good head can work out how to fit a bush in there.
 

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