Massey Ferguson 3065 4wd problem

GHuggins

Member
Livestock Farmer
3000 series 4wd is mechanically held on by a spring clutch until released by hydraulic pressure. So engine needs to be running and 17 Bar pressure applied by putting 12v on 4wd solenoid.

So it's just the opposite of the 6100 series then? Would the same principal not still apply though? In other words if it's disengaging 4wd with speed then check to see if the 4wd switch is sending signal to the relay to send power to the solenoid?
 

manhill

Member
So it's just the opposite of the 6100 series then? Would the same principal not still apply though? In other words if it's disengaging 4wd with speed then check to see if the 4wd switch is sending signal to the relay to send power to the solenoid?

Trouble is, I don't know what the 'brain's logic decides. I can only work at the business end, the solenoids, hydraulic actions, electrics. I see the autotronic as a breakdown waiting to happen especially if you look where they decided to put it.
 

GHuggins

Member
Livestock Farmer
It's under the passenger side of the cab like the 6100's isn't it? Biggest problem with every single earlier Massey before the 4200 series tractors is the battery location and how they did the grounds or lack there of on the tractors. I fixed every single electrical problem on my 6180 just by adding ground cables to each battery and running down and attaching at the engine, starter, transmission and cab on each side of the tractor. Before that it had all sorts of electrical grimlins from self 4wd actuation to the dynashift resetting or not working at all. In your case if you've got another one you can borrow, I would try a 4wd switch or the brake switch and go from there. Electrical is simple if you have a volt meter and a schematic to go by.
 

manhill

Member
It's under the passenger side of the cab like the 6100's isn't it? Biggest problem with every single earlier Massey before the 4200 series tractors is the battery location and how they did the grounds or lack there of on the tractors. I fixed every single electrical problem on my 6180 just by adding ground cables to each battery and running down and attaching at the engine, starter, transmission and cab on each side of the tractor. Before that it had all sorts of electrical grimlins from self 4wd actuation to the dynashift resetting or not working at all. In your case if you've got another one you can borrow, I would try a 4wd switch or the brake switch and go from there. Electrical is simple if you have a volt meter and a schematic to go by.
Couldn't agree more about earthing.
 

manhill

Member
Couldn't agree more about earthing.
It's under the rhs step on the 3000 and the battery (s) is in front of the radiator and earthed to the chassis there and needs a clean from time to time. When only the mounting bolts of the alternator and starter are used for their earthing there's more trouble points.
 

manhill

Member
Then you effectively have a 2wd tractor with no diff lock, the worst possible situation as there is no diff lock facility on the rear axle. Getting the 4wd working is the priority, the diff lock problem comes second. You think your English is bad? You should see the poor English on the BBC and our newspapers!

I'm talking a load of rubbish, of course there's a diff lock on the rear axle and that's operated by the same solenoid putting 17 bar on the diff lock piston. Sorry about that, I'm just a geriatric apprentice still learning!
 

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Red Tractor drops launch of green farming scheme amid anger from farmers

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As reported in Independent


quote: “Red Tractor has confirmed it is dropping plans to launch its green farming assurance standard in April“

read the TFF thread here: https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/gfc-was-to-go-ahead-now-not-going-ahead.405234/
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