Massey Ferguson 35 attaching external hydraulics

[WelshWonder35]

Hello all, new here, been around MF35s all my life, almost 50 now, one thing I still can’t get straight in my head is is using the three way diverted valve properly, ext1 goes to the loader, middle is link arms and ext2 goes to the back of the tractor, but how do you set the draft lever properly for all three? Loader works off single acting cylinders, I only have a transport box and topper on the three point linkage and nothing connected to ext2, so wondering also how to connect a double acting cylinder to ext2. I guess I need a spool valve (open?) in between ext2 and the cylinder? Sorry too many questions… anyone know of a good guide for all this or book? Thanks

 

[Tractortech]

Now Then..
In my experience, the draft lever will only control the front loader and the position lever must be at 'Constant Pumping'. To operate the draft links, draft lever fully up, position then relates to link height. To operate a D/A ram, yes you'll need an open centre spool valve.
When I was a lad, I got a second hand spool off a forklift truck and fit that to the MF135 & loader combo. The loader was so much easier to control. If your levers and internal linkage are bent/seized/broken, nothing will work correctly..
Someone else will know more..

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

To operate the loader set position lever to the top,
On the Draft lever quadrant there should be 2 lines stamped into the tin plate, see red dots,
In-between the lines is hold, move below bottom line is drop see green dot, and above top line is lift,
This is with Ext 1 on change over valve, and all the internal linkage are working correctly.
Now then, the ext 2 really does the same as ext 1, only difference is, ext 2 will keep topping up oil in hydraulic lift cylinder to keep arms up to the top, and will do this constantly, so you cannot have arms anywhere else than the top on ext 2,
Where as ext 1, will never feed oil to arms and can have them where ever you like, however they will normally drop to bottom due to internal leaks, this is normal on ferguson hydraulics, that is why ext 2 is used to keep arms up to top.
Using a remote spool on ext 2 is not recommended, only use ext 1.
You have not said what the remote spool is to be used for, and when

 

[WelshWonder35]

Thanks both, Sorry forgot to say what I was wanting to do… I’ve been looking at getting a finger bar hedge cutter like the old McConnell ones where the blade is driven by the pto and hydraulics set the blade, I’ve seen a setup where the trailer tipping hydraulic pipe runs into the spool and return back into the filler cap, wondering If ext2 could do the same, the diverter has one port labelled R which I assume is return???

 

[Tractortech]

There's ⅜" BSP port under the seat as I recall. Space may be limited at the isolator valve. I think it's possible to control the hedge cutter in the same way as the loader.
If you can find an economic spool, that might make it all work better..

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

Thanks both, Sorry forgot to say what I was wanting to do… I’ve been looking at getting a finger bar hedge cutter like the old McConnell ones where the blade is driven by the pto and hydraulics set the blade, I’ve seen a setup where the trailer tipping hydraulic pipe runs into the spool and return back into the filler cap, wondering If ext2 could do the same, the diverter has one port labelled R which I assume is return???

No don't use ext 2 for this, just fit a divertor valve in pipework from ext 1, to feed the spool on hedge cutter, as for return pipe, it would be far better if the return to back end at a point below the oil level, if oil is returned at the top it may cause cavitation or frothing of the oil, this in turn will play havoc with the hydraulic system.
So it would be best to look down below the pto selector lever, you will see a drain bung, remove it, drill, and tap it to take a hydraulics fitting 3/8 bsp will be enough,
And fit a coupling on it for the oil return

 

[WelshWonder35]

I haven’t an image of the diverter valve fitted, but it’s like this, stollen from Google… the one with an R on it is the one with a gold coupling in the image, I was told it was an original MF one.

still trying to think of something the would need ext2 if the link arms always stayed up??

thanks

 

[MF-ANDY]

Linkage purely for linkage. Ext one for loader which is why there 2 ( one for each ram). When ext 1 ports are dead ended the link arms will raise and stay there due to a check valve in the selector and will be topped up every time you dead end port ie when you raise a loader completely. This is to carry a blast weight and to compensate for linkage shinkage if you aren'tusing a tee bar. Ext 2 can feed a tipping pipe or another external feed ie a spool valve bank. The link arms won't be fed so will drop over time. Port R will be fine for a return from a spool block as there is not a very big flow and that is what it is there for. The op is talking about a 35 not a 135 so that quadrant picture is incorrect. I'm not sure where constant pumping is on a 35 quadrant but the draft lever is still used to work a loader.

 

[agrimax]

PP's 135 quadrant has pressure control which the 35 hasn't. On the 35,the position lever works in the opposite direction. Pulling the position lever up lifts the arms and forward down drops them.Constant pumping is full back on the quadrant.

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

PP's 135 quadrant has pressure control which the 35 hasn't. On the 35,the position lever works in the opposite direction. Pulling the position lever up lifts the arms and forward down drops them.Constant pumping is full back on the quadrant.

Aye but the draft quadrant is still the same, and that is what I was explaining

 

[WelshWonder35]

Thanks all, lots of info, normally I’d trial and error these things, but this 35 was bought new by my great uncle and has been handed down through the family, my father passed away a couple of months back and it’s now my responsibility to grease her nipples and oil her sump, still talking about the tractor by the way…. So need to be sure before I have a go

 

[WelshWonder35]

This is the type of hedge cutter I was thinking of. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

[Tractortech]

Don't let me put you off.
They were an awful thing back then, they won't have got any better with age!! It depends on what type of hedge you're cutting and how old the growth.. The knives used to break, the arm would twist and belts fly off. Control without a spool valve will be difficult. They don't have much reach either. Progress can be slow and hard work on the tractor clutch
If you don't mind replacing knife sections and you have low, light hedges and some spare time, then go for it. It's good to see some of this old kit working..

 

[WelshWonder35]

I have a 8 foot high, 100 foot long leylandii hedge I would use it on, currently trim it with a hand held hedge trimmer… I did have someone with a flail hedge cutter have a go, but that made a mess of it, thought a finger bar would do ok, and be a little project too.. I do see much more modern finger bar hedge cutters, not sure if they are any better

 

[Tractortech]

I think the fingerbar is the only thing for leylandii. Just don't cut too much off, but you'll already know that!!

 

[jd6110]

I have a 8 foot high, 100 foot long leylandii hedge I would use it on, currently trim it with a hand held hedge trimmer… I did have someone with a flail hedge cutter have a go, but that made a mess of it, thought a finger bar would do ok, and be a little project too.. I do see much more modern finger bar hedge cutters, not sure if they are any better

Have used newer McConnell on a 35 will cut away at any thing smaller than index finger slow progress but leaves nice finish.

 

[wattie]

I have a 8 foot high, 100 foot long leylandii hedge I would use it on, currently trim it with a hand held hedge trimmer… I did have someone with a flail hedge cutter have a go, but that made a mess of it, thought a finger bar would do ok, and be a little project too.. I do see much more modern finger bar hedge cutters, not sure if they are any better

I believe the correct way to do that is to walk along with a hand-held petrol cutter, then stand on the trailer while someone drives you along the hedge line and you do the top. ten minutes. all done. maybe.

 

[Oliveau]

I believe the correct way to do that is to walk along with a hand-held petrol cutter, then stand on the trailer while someone drives you along the hedge line and you do the top. ten minutes. all done. maybe.

Which is what I do here. But I just wish I’d ripped the effing things out when we arrived 18 years ago. They just grow and grow and grow…

 

[wattie]

. I have the opposite problem - can't get hedges to grow faster than the neighbour's effing horses destroy them.

 

[rick_vandal]

I have a Swingtrim on a 35, single acting raise and manual angle, twin vee belt cutterbar. With juggling, I can hold on the diverter. First time throw over was bricking, but it saves a lot of reversing.