Massey Ferguson 6170 three point linkage shaft - clutch problem

[Wim3065]

Hi Guys

Before I start with ordering parts and as we can't miss the tractor atm, if you see the pictures below, what do you think? Should it be the "theets" of the shaft who are broken? Or can it be something with the bushing inside?
The previous owner replaced the standard bolts with something of his own to remove the wobbeling.

The second problem we have is that you don't have control over the clutch when the tractor is hot. It's all or nothing. Can it be the accumulator? The main cylinder looks good, no leaks or whatever.

Thank you for your input!

 

[madscientist]

What is wrong with cross shaft. Not lifting? Bolts only keep disc in place to stop lifting lugs sliding off splines.

I'd need to look workshop manual to see if calibration helps clutch smoothness. There is a sequence to calibrate the electric shuttle. Beyond 6160 the uptake not a smooth (6170-6190) anyway. Decent grade 10w40 keeps it viscosity better when heat is up.

 

[Wim3065]

Sorry if my explanation wasn't totally clear. There's a lot of space between the lifting lugs and the housing. The lifting lugs wiggle a lot on the shaft. Therefore it happens that the bolt snaps.

I got the feeling the clutch is getting worser when the MF got hotter. Today, I started to plow, no issues. After a half hour, the problem started. When I slowly loose the clutch the tractor springs forward.

 

[Magic7]

I can't help on the linkage arms, but on our 6170 the clutch was similar to yours, very jerky and didn't quite disengage even with the pedal all the way to the floor. A full service (back end oil, the spin on hydraulic filter, the cartridge filter and the internal suction screen (behind bung on left hand side of gearbox) followed by working it hard for half hour and then bleeding the clutch has cured this completely.

I used Morris Super Versitrac 10w40 oil (71l for the back end if memory serves, I presume any other oil that has been tested and certified by Massey Ferguson will also be suitable if Morris is not available in your country but these are very sensitive to oil) and genuine agco filters (about £50 each if memory serves). To bleed the clutch with the oil hot raise the engine revs to around 1500rpm then on the right hand side of the gearbox near the main computer module is a Schrader valve covered by a rubber cap. Press and hold this in for 2-3 seconds or until all air has gone.

Be prepared it will be hard to push in and when you do hot oil will come out at the low system pressure so make sure it does not spray on you and be prepared for everything in the area to get covered in oil.

 

[madscientist]

The lugs would be softer than the hard cross shaft. Often see new 'red' ones on 3080 and younger etc. There us a shim aswell between lug and cross shaft. Often falls out with wear fitted closest to centre housing. replacingredients lug and shim cures most problems. Mine worn too but interesting that they don't annoy your ploughing sensitivity.
I suspect someone has replaced the original hi quality bolt with threaded bar to hold outer disc on. Threaded bar isn't strong. Not even 8.8 strength normal bolts.

 

[Wim3065]

I'll indeed order some new filters and do a service. Thanks for the tip on the bleeding, didn't know that!

@madscientist So that's the reason why our 3070 indeed has the red ones and not the grey ones! Is it possible there is no separate partnumber for the lifting lugs in the partsmanual? It seems like I can't find these back.
Thanks!

 

[Wim3065]

Found them . Should be 3796039M3 for the right one, 3796038M3 for the left.

 

[TrewithickFarm]

@Wim3065 had exactly the same problem with the clutch on my 6180, changed the accumulator no difference. In the end had to get independent massey chap out. he put some more shims in the valve block under the bonnet near the cab.
It is abit better but not perfect. Thinking a back end oil and filter change may make things alittle better.

 

[masseybreaker]

you need part number 3793675m1 they are the washers to take the gap up in the crosshaft they did a upgrade on the size of the bolt from a m12 to a m16 but the shaft will be to hard to drill and tap

 

[Wim3065]

@masseybreaker So maybe it's better to invest in a new crosshaft with M16 thread together with 3793675M1. I guess the M12 bolt will give us the same problem in x years. I'll remove the lifting lugs to see how they look.

 

[masseybreaker]

before you take the lift arms off remove the plate that holds the spool block of its the plate with the oil filler plug in it and you will see the crosshaft inside loosen the aliminium cam that the potentiometer runs on. you will need a allen key there are two screws . dont worry there are two locating holes in the shaft to refit
if you dont do this you risk damage to the potentiometer and they are £200 ish

 

[Wim3065]

@masseybreaker 3793675M1 is a pretty expensive part for what it is. And not everyone has it on stock. Guess it doesn't need to replaced very often..

 

[Huwie]

@masseybreaker 3793675M1 is a pretty expensive part for what it is. And not everyone has it on stock. Guess it doesn't need to replaced very often..

Dis you sort the problem in the end?? Have the same problem now with a 6180. Lot of play in the crossshaft and wont move when release clutch in any gear after it’s done a few hours work. Dont fancy splitting the tractor