Match plough wheel marker

On my latest effort I did the same as Howard and cut my circle from an old buckled Ransomes wheel using a plasma cutter. Previously I had used a Ransomes wheel and cut the rim off then fitted the tyre either side though I had to get an engineer shop to roll the tyre so this time I decided on a new wheel .
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The marker on your plough Bob looks like quite a deep marker have you ever had any trouble with it not going into the ground?
Have you ever had any trouble with the marker not showing @Howard150 is your marker about 35mm?
 
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arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
I now run a wider wheel like the one that Howard shows with the marker some way from the outside. When you lay the plough to land for the first run the marker will not penetrate if too shallow. 35mm is about right with that sort of setup, any shallower and you will never make a mark.
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
View attachment 844194
View attachment 844196
The marker on your plough Bob looks like quite a deep marker have you ever had any trouble with it not going into the ground?
Have you ever had any trouble with the marker not showing @Howard150 is your marker about 35mm?

Mine is 30mm. If it’s much more it can cause more problems than it solves by cutting down into ground you need left undisturbed.
It is offset for a reason and that offset is 2”. When you come to do your second to last run move the wheel 1” wider. This will mean the side of the wheel runs up the side of the furrow wall and you are leaving a single furrow which is 1” narrower than you were ploughing.
If the ring is on the edge of the wheel it can cut away the furrow wall or if the weight is off the landside as it should be for leaving a single furrow, the back of the marker disc is apt to disturb the furrow wall.
If it is 1” away from the edge it is apt to cut out a trench at the side of the furrow wall, resulting in the single furrow having no support when you plough the last furrow and it breaking off accordingly and not allowing you to plough it properly.
If it’s 2 inches away then all it does is cut a groove in the furrow bottom that nobody need ever know about. That can be our little secret ???
Hope this helps
 
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Mine is 30mm. If it’s much more it can cause more poor lens than it solves by cutting down into ground you need left undisturbed.
It is offset for a reason and that offset is 2”. When you come to do your second to last run move the wheel 1” wider. This will mean the side of the wheel runs up the side of the furrow wall and you are leaving a single furrow which is 1” narrower than you were ploughing.
If the ring is on the edge of the wheel it can cut away the furrow wall or if the weight is off the landside as it should be for leaving a single furrow, the back of the marker disc is apt to disturb the furrow wall.
If it is 1” away from the edge it is apt to cut out a trench at the side of the furrow wall, resulting in the single furrow having no support when you plough the last furrow and it breaking off accordingly and not allowing you to plough it properly.
If it’s 2 inches away then all it does is cut a groove in the furrow bottom that nobody need ever know about. That can be our little secret ???
Hope this helps
Thank you Dave. And thank you for your brilliant explanation! :)
 
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Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Thank you Dave. And thank you for your brilliant explanation! :)

No problem but........
As an edit to the last post then you will need to set the wheel and ring up properly. Whilst a plain wheel misaligned will not be too problematic, putting a ring on is a game changer, misaligned it will steer the plough. For middle work then this can be counteracted. Starts and finishes though are a major issue and make your job so much harder.

To set the wheel up then move it as close to the frame as possible. Lift it up so that the centre of the wheel is as near as you can get it to being central height wise to the beam. Now check the dimension of the wheel to the frame front and back. They need to be the same. Warm and bend the axle until they are.

Next clamp something - either a piece of flat or a steel rule to the top of the frame, extending over the outside of the wheel. Set it two inches in from the side of the wheel. Spin the wheel and mark it with your chalk. Set your ring in place, all the time rotating it and checking for true. Mark it out for 60 to 80 mm hit/miss for welding, then weld it up with hits diametrically exposed.

Good luck trying.
 
I now run a wider wheel like the one that Howard shows with the marker some way from the outside. When you lay the plough to land for the first run the marker will not penetrate if too shallow. 35mm is about right with that sort of setup, any shallower and you will never make a mark.
What is the width of your wider wheel Bob? My current wheel started off at 3" wide, then I decided it wasn't enough so I made it 4" by welding some 1" plate on and bending the plate to match the wheel as I welded it. I only just got away with this! I still wasn't happy so, at the beginning of this season I got a 1 1/2" plate shop rolled and welded it on. Now I think with a 5 1/2" wide wheel I've got it about right! I just need a decent marker now!
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
What is the width of your wider wheel Bob? My current wheel started off at 3" wide, then I decided it wasn't enough so I made it 4" by welding some 1" plate on and bending the plate to match the wheel as I welded it. I only just got away with this! I still wasn't happy so, at the beginning of this season I got a 1 1/2" plate shop rolled and welded it on. Now I think with a 5 1/2" wide wheel I've got it about right! I just need a decent marker now!
Mine is 6" wide and 19.5" diameter. The marker is cut from 5mm plate (4mm is thick enough) with a plasma cutter. It protrudes 30mm.
 

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