Mccormick b250 won't start

Bully1

Member
On mine, the lift pump is where the t-shaped handle is in the photo (although mine has a question-mark shaped handle which you unscrew, then pump up and down to prime. ) :)
That's it, I unscrewed that and pumped up and down and when vent plug on pump is open it squirts out but some does come out the plunger itself
Was thinking about putting in an electric pump to feed fuel in from tank to see if that helps
But don't really want to cut original steel pipe to fit it in
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
image.jpeg
If not already done whip the injector pump side plate off to have a look. You will be able to see the camshaft and plungers, good chance one of them is not returning fully then not having a full stroke.

Take the lift pump off to drain the injector pump and flush out with diesel before refitting and fill up to level with engine oil. It will make a world of difference
 

Bully1

Member
View attachment 429204 If not already done whip the injector pump side plate off to have a look. You will be able to see the camshaft and plungers, good chance one of them is not returning fully then not having a full stroke.

Take the lift pump off to drain the injector pump and flush out with diesel before refitting and fill up to level with engine oil. It will make a world of difference
I removed that cover to make sure there moving and all 4 seem to be moving up and down the same amount
 

Bully1

Member
View attachment 429204 If not already done whip the injector pump side plate off to have a look. You will be able to see the camshaft and plungers, good chance one of them is not returning fully then not having a full stroke.

Take the lift pump off to drain the injector pump and flush out with diesel before refitting and fill up to level with engine oil. It will make a world of difference
Where do you fill the oil in the pump?
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
As it's an inline pump it needs a separate lubricator for the camshaft and bearings etc. It needs to be filled to or just below the level of the breather pipe with engine oil.
 

Mursal

Member
That's a lift pump bolted to the side of the injector pump
Have you plenty of diesel on the supply to the injector pump (open the pipe as it goes into the pump) when you work the hand primer?
Have you the same flow when you crank the engine over (to see if the lift pump actually works)?
Absolutely no air when you open the bleeder on the injector pump, any air must be eliminated.

Probably be tomorrow before you try it?
Let us know how you get on ...........
 
Last edited:

Bully1

Member
That's a lift pump bolted to the side of the injector pump
Have you plenty of diesel on the supply to the injector pump (open the pipe as it goes into the pump) when you work the hand primer?
Have you the same flow when you crank the engine over (to see if the lift pump actually works)?
Absolutely no air when you open the bleeder on the injector pump, any air must be eliminated.

Probably be tomorrow before you try it?
Let us know how you get on ...........
Has good flow when working the hand pump but not tried cranking it over with banjo open
And it's at the bottom of my garden outside in the dark so maybe tommorow night now before I get to test again
 
Also check the outlet to the fuel lift pump that it doesn't just push fuel out but can do this at pressure might be around 5-8psi so not huge pressure but you will feel it if you blocked the pipe with your thumb and you can feel the back pressure whilst cranking the engine (not pumping by hand). Can be a problem sometimes for engines not giving full power with in line pumps if the lift pump is shagged- which I think yours might be possibly if the fuel is getting to it well enough ???
 

Bully1

Member
Also check the outlet to the fuel lift pump that it doesn't just push fuel out but can do this at pressure might be around 5-8psi so not huge pressure but you will feel it if you blocked the pipe with your thumb and you can feel the back pressure whilst cranking the engine (not pumping by hand). Can be a problem sometimes for engines not giving full power with in line pumps if the lift pump is shagged- which I think yours might be possibly if the fuel is getting to it well enough ???
Tried this tonight got good pressure when cranking so that must be working, I'm Gona change the fuel pipes and copper washers on all banjos and see if that stops air getting in
 

Mursal

Member
If you have any issues with air, its most likely before the lift pump, so between the lift pump and tank.

Does it now take longer to heat, it was glowing after a few seconds because of the dud heater?
 

Bully1

Member
If you have any issues with air, its most likely before the lift pump, so between the lift pump and tank.

Does it now take longer to heat, it was glowing after a few seconds because of the dud heater?
It does take slightly longer but not much
Before when pressed the dash indicator came strIght on and was glowing bright red near white in seconds now when pressed in around 3/4 seconds it starts to turn red but does this slowly and glows red around 7/10 seconds
It still has the steel pipe from sediments bowl under tank to the pump

Will have to Check seal/o ring on sediment bowl but as there's no filtre before lift pump I'm going to cut steel pipe and fit an inline filtre
 

Bully1

Member
As with the starter motor,
I've just fitted a brand new one but the lever won't move to engage the cog onto the flywheel, it gets stuck
I have to press the starter but to get it to spin first so I can then depress the lever so it engages and then start the tractor

Do I need to adjust the starting lever to suit the new starter?
 

Mursal

Member
That procedure might be hard on the small gear on the starter (pinion) and the teeth on the flywheel.
As you know both should work at the same time, or at least engage while the starter is only spinning slowly.
But its not stopping it from firing up.
If you have a good flow of diesel when oyu open the bleeder on the pump (directly across for the inlet pipe), might be best to leave the fuel line as it is? If you think there is anything wrong with the sediment bowl, just blow back into it with a foot pump, that will clear it so you can go for a start.
If you have diesel at the injector pump, possibly its injectors need looking at, or lack of compression.

It can be hard to know what to blame .........
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
Has it ran at all? You mentioned you had it going with easy start? Was it running on the easy start or did it run on its own after?

How are the vacuum pipes from the venturi on inlet manifold down the governor on the injector pump? When you move the stop lever can you hear some air sound from the diaphragm? With the side plate off can you see the rack moving when you move the stopper?

When you get it going let it run fo a few hours, a good glug of ATF oil in the fuel filter does help aswell. Also been told that a shot of two stroke oil into fuel filter wilk do the system a world of good.
 

John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
As with the starter motor,
I've just fitted a brand new one but the lever won't move to engage the cog onto the flywheel, it gets stuck
I have to press the starter but to get it to spin first so I can then depress the lever so it engages and then start the tractor

Do I need to adjust the starting lever to suit the new starter?


Its spring loaded...if you look at the contact switch mounted on the top of the starter, it should have slotted holes in it to allow it to be moved forwards or back. It needs adjusting so that the cog meshes before the solenoid engages the drive

when you press the lever and the cogs dont line up, there is another spring in the lever on the starter that allows the bit connected to the hand lever to carry on moving far enough to engage the solenoid and allow the starter to rotate and the cogs to mesh
 

Bully1

Member
Has it ran at all? You mentioned you had it going with easy start? Was it running on the easy start or did it run on its own after?

How are the vacuum pipes from the venturi on inlet manifold down the governor on the injector pump? When you move the stop lever can you hear some air sound from the diaphragm? With the side plate off can you see the rack moving when you move the stopper?

When you get it going let it run fo a few hours, a good glug of ATF oil in the fuel filter does help aswell. Also been told that a shot of two stroke oil into fuel filter wilk do the system a world of good.

It was running fine untill it packed up which I then fitted new fuel filtre had the injectors overhauled I then got it running on easy start but then ran fine on its own I then drove it down my garden and parked it up the next day it wouldn't start so I replaced the glowplug and after finding a fault with then I used glowlugs and it fired straight away but was missing and before I could grab a spanner to crack the injectors to try and bleed then it stopped

And after trying again it just fires, puffs out white and black smoke but won't run

I then cracked the injector pipes and air comes rushing out on number 4

When it was running the stop switch worked fine and I've tried cranking over with it out it won't fire but pushed in it fires but won't run
Never heard any air sound when using stop switch before
 

Bully1

Member
Anybody know as to how much pressure should be in the fuel filtre housing before the overflow valve opens and sends fuel down the injector leak off pipes and back to the fuel tank?

Even when I operate the hand primer fuel rushes out the overflow valve so just wondering if it's going back to tank and not sending enough pressure to the injector pump as when I try to bleed the injectors I only get a dribble and not a good squirt?

Anyone got a video showing how much they should squirt when trying to bleed the injectors?
Thanks
 

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