REStracTORATION
Member
It's when you get days like the above everyday you start to think twice
If you don't take it in good humour I would seriously offend somebody
If you don't take it in good humour I would seriously offend somebody
MF 35X Ongoing Restoration and Questions
- Thread starter Tigger
- Start date
Tigger
Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
Yes it wouldn't do to be the type who gives up in irritation when things go wrong - having a few hobbies all of which involve varying degrees of 'try it and see, and if it doesn't, try again' I've developed a fairly thick skin by now
Anyway for the record, I had an email from Old20 Tractor Parts this morning, very apologetic and they have measured the hoses in their 3-cyl 35 kits and found that indeed what I said the clips ought to be are not what they seem to be supplying in their clip kit, which has puzzled them, unsurprisingly. And they've offered a credit on my account for future purchases, of which there will probably be many - so 10/10 for aftersales anyway.
Got a better quality 9/16 spanner on the way and going to try using heat (not a blow torch but a heat blower) in one last go at removing that drain tap assembly. If still no joy then will just fill it back up and I'm sure it should be ok for now.
Anyway for the record, I had an email from Old20 Tractor Parts this morning, very apologetic and they have measured the hoses in their 3-cyl 35 kits and found that indeed what I said the clips ought to be are not what they seem to be supplying in their clip kit, which has puzzled them, unsurprisingly. And they've offered a credit on my account for future purchases, of which there will probably be many - so 10/10 for aftersales anyway.
Got a better quality 9/16 spanner on the way and going to try using heat (not a blow torch but a heat blower) in one last go at removing that drain tap assembly. If still no joy then will just fill it back up and I'm sure it should be ok for now.
Last edited:
Sussex Martin
Member
- Location
- Burham Kent
I've been weeks trying to curtail the fuel leaks on my 135, had the tank off a couple of times, changed bits here and there, success last Saturday when every joint was dry after a week Hooray! But I had the mower on it for a couple of hours, leaking againIt's when you get days like the above everyday you start to think twice
If you don't take it in good humour I would seriously offend somebody
. How tight is 'F' tight .
REStracTORATION
Member
There is little rubber olives in the pipes that go hard and loose their sealI've been weeks trying to curtail the fuel leaks on my 135, had the tank off a couple of times, changed bits here and there, success last Saturday when every joint was dry after a week Hooray! But I had the mower on it for a couple of hours, leaking again
Also the brass olives wear away if a pipe has been slack
There is a quick coj for them but not going say in here
A lot of metal to metal joints leak as the pipes don't meet up square
Do you need a pro to look at it
Sussex Martin
Member
- Location
- Burham Kent
Be handy if you could pop do2n for an hour or so over the weekendThere is little rubber olives in the pipes that go hard and loose their seal
Also the brass olives wear away if a pipe has been slack
There is a quick coj for them but not going say in here
A lot of metal to metal joints leak as the pipes don't meet up square
Do you need a pro to look at it
Sussex Martin
Member
- Location
- Burham Kent
Good job as you would have felt very lonely
.
REStracTORATION
Member
You pay I'll landBe handy if you could pop do2n for an hour or so over the weekend
Usually how it works
Tigger
Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
Well you'll have to come fairly close to me on the way to Kent, so...
Actually despite a few setbacks I'm enjoying the hands-on fixing stuff (or trying to) - a good way of getting to know the machine in a way no book can replace. I've got a small but persistent fuel leak from the underside of the injection pump, so that'll be my next job after the cooling system back together.
Going back to the white smoke problem on idle, and looking at the thermostart / heat plug fuel supply reservoir - is it the case that it will only get a supply if the fuel tank is well over half full, or am I being thick? As pipe to the top of the reservoir comes out of the fuel tank much higher up than the general fuel tap to the first pump and glass bowl. If it IS the case that the tank must be over half full then it's definitely not the cause of the problem, as mine isn't...
Actually despite a few setbacks I'm enjoying the hands-on fixing stuff (or trying to) - a good way of getting to know the machine in a way no book can replace. I've got a small but persistent fuel leak from the underside of the injection pump, so that'll be my next job after the cooling system back together.
Going back to the white smoke problem on idle, and looking at the thermostart / heat plug fuel supply reservoir - is it the case that it will only get a supply if the fuel tank is well over half full, or am I being thick?
As pipe to the top of the reservoir comes out of the fuel tank much higher up than the general fuel tap to the first pump and glass bowl. If it IS the case that the tank must be over half full then it's definitely not the cause of the problem, as mine isn't... 
wuddy
Member
- Location
- Scottish Borders
I think I am right in saying the reservoir is filled from the injector leak-off pipes. Took mine off about a year ago and not looked at it since!Well you'll have to come fairly close to me on the way to Kent, so...
Actually despite a few setbacks I'm enjoying the hands-on fixing stuff (or trying to) - a good way of getting to know the machine in a way no book can replace. I've got a small but persistent fuel leak from the underside of the injection pump, so that'll be my next job after the cooling system back together.
Going back to the white smoke problem on idle, and looking at the thermostart / heat plug fuel supply reservoir - is it the case that it will only get a supply if the fuel tank is well over half full, or am I being thick?
REStracTORATION
Member
The reservoir is filled via the middle pipe which is the injector leak off the top pipe is the return to tank reservoir over flow
The reservoir is full at all times once running
The bottom pipe gravity feeds to heater plug once activated.
The fuel leak on the pump can be a number of things
Best thing is to spray some brake cleaner on the pump blow dry then see it leak
My guess is throttle and stopper spindle o-rings
But can be gaskets and fuel pipe fitting cross threaded
Even pipe worn through
The reservoir is full at all times once running
The bottom pipe gravity feeds to heater plug once activated.
The fuel leak on the pump can be a number of things
Best thing is to spray some brake cleaner on the pump blow dry then see it leak
My guess is throttle and stopper spindle o-rings
But can be gaskets and fuel pipe fitting cross threaded
Even pipe worn through
Tigger
Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
Thanks for clarifying about the reservoir supply - having had a closer look today that makes perfect sense.
And I'll have a go at tracking the fuel leak next time it's running.
Got the hoses all fitted back today and 7 litres of coolant in before it was full - assuming the rest of the supposed 10 litres needed goes in after running it for a while? Tried a hooked wire in the tube of the engine drain tap but still nothing, so removal it will be at some point.
Anyway a couple of photos as it's been too long since the last ones - before and after hose / clips replacement, and the newly painted parts ready to be fitted when I have time. For a brushed finish I'm not too unhappy with the result.
And I'll have a go at tracking the fuel leak next time it's running.
Got the hoses all fitted back today and 7 litres of coolant in before it was full - assuming the rest of the supposed 10 litres needed goes in after running it for a while? Tried a hooked wire in the tube of the engine drain tap but still nothing, so removal it will be at some point.
Anyway a couple of photos as it's been too long since the last ones
- before and after hose / clips replacement, and the newly painted parts ready to be fitted when I have time. For a brushed finish I'm not too unhappy with the result.
REStracTORATION
Member
Good finish for brushThanks for clarifying about the reservoir supply - having had a closer look today that makes perfect sense.
And I'll have a go at tracking the fuel leak next time it's running.
Got the hoses all fitted back today and 7 litres of coolant in before it was full - assuming the rest of the supposed 10 litres needed goes in after running it for a while? Tried a hooked wire in the tube of the engine drain tap but still nothing, so removal it will be at some point.
Anyway a couple of photos as it's been too long since the last ones
The coolant will still be in the block with tap not being drained etc so I'd imagine that the system is full and will just require a top up once full circulation has been established
REStracTORATION
Member
Or the blocks full of rust and gunk
Tigger
Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
Or the blocks full of rust and gunk
Hah - yeah, that's what I'm fearing. Certainly must be some reason the tap's blocked. It might turn into quite a big birthday next year at this rate... ah well, would be sensible to get any 'big' jobs done at the same time, and while in the hands of somone who knows what they're doing! I'll just get any of the easier bits done in the meantime.
powerfarmer
Member
- Location
- Cork Ireland
Nice paint finish, what brand did you use ? Any special preparation before you painted.
Tigger
Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
Thanks - the red is Agriline Super Red - not quite the shade I really want on this long-term but it matches most of the rest of it for now, and a nearly-new tin of it came with the tractor...
The grey is Kramp Stoneleigh Grey - bought from my very local tractor dealer (Murley Agricultural).
Prep was just hand dry sanding, 80, 120, 200, followed by Bonda Anti Rust Primer, then 400 sanding, followed by the enamel, then a gentle denibbing wipe over with 0000 steel wool, clean off and second coat of enamel (third too, on the red!). Enamel applied using standard coach painting technique (i.e fast
) and a large fine bristled brush.As I don't have proper painting rooms or cubicles there are small bits of dust visible, but on the whole I'm pleased with the result.
Tigger
Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
Ok, question time again I'm afraid!
Looking to fit a dynamo guard - should be a nice easy retrofit, he says.
Snag 1: there appear to be two design types advertised as suitable -
Type 1 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Massey-F...F20-130-148-Dynamo-Guard-Tractor/272029768877
Type 2 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/61454-Ma...Guard-TE-20-35-35X-135-PACK-OF-1/141000286315
Also shown here:
Snag 2: how are they fitted? Parts Manual shows two bolts needed (part numbers 376 335 X1 and 353 521 X1) but one of those isn't even contained in the vast Sparex catalogue. But even if I could get them, looking at the dynamo itself I can't quite see how it would be secured that way... The long slot part of the dynamo guard looks more like it should fit onto the existing tension adjustment bracket bolt, but I could be wrong.
Any close-up photos from someone who has one fitted would definitely help me out, as well as of course which guard and where to get the correct bolts (or equivalent size) if needed.
Progress still being made with the seat - drilled out the rusted solid rubber block bolts from the bracket and tapped new threads for a new block to be fitted. Also replaced the thermostart plug yesterday, so should be interesting on next start to see if the white smoke issue is cured.
Looking to fit a dynamo guard - should be a nice easy retrofit, he says.
Snag 1: there appear to be two design types advertised as suitable -
Type 1 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Massey-F...F20-130-148-Dynamo-Guard-Tractor/272029768877
Type 2 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/61454-Ma...Guard-TE-20-35-35X-135-PACK-OF-1/141000286315
Also shown here:
Snag 2: how are they fitted? Parts Manual shows two bolts needed (part numbers 376 335 X1 and 353 521 X1) but one of those isn't even contained in the vast Sparex catalogue. But even if I could get them, looking at the dynamo itself I can't quite see how it would be secured that way... The long slot part of the dynamo guard looks more like it should fit onto the existing tension adjustment bracket bolt, but I could be wrong.
Any close-up photos from someone who has one fitted would definitely help me out, as well as of course which guard and where to get the correct bolts (or equivalent size) if needed.
Progress still being made with the seat - drilled out the rusted solid rubber block bolts from the bracket and tapped new threads for a new block to be fitted. Also replaced the thermostart plug yesterday, so should be interesting on next start to see if the white smoke issue is cured.
Mursal
Member
They look exceptionally well when fitted, but we would never put them back on a working tractor.
Always good to throw your eye on the belt .......
The bottom one fits onto the dynamo mounting bolts.
Not sure about the top one.
Always good to throw your eye on the belt .......
The bottom one fits onto the dynamo mounting bolts.
Yes that's correct, the MF590 had them, little feckers ...............
Not sure about the top one.
Tigger
Member
- Location
- Worcestershire
Well, finally, success with the pesky engine block coolant drain tap!
I applied some of this stuff, not expecting much to happen but worth a last try before much more drastic measures:
And as you can see, PlusGas worked its magic, along with use of as long a spanner as I could fit in the very awkward location, as the offending object is also pictured!
However, the expected torrent did not occur when the tap was removed, despite there being 7 litres of coolant in the system, instead I just saw this:
Not even a hint of coolant trickling out. So my fear of the thing being gunked up solid was indeed realised. But to get anything substantial like a large screwdriver in there for attempted removal of the blockage needed me to remove the horizontal exhaust pipe assembly, as the vertical downpipe passed right in front of this opening. Why only do one job when two will do, eh?
Anyway, I wanted to replace it, luckily, as it was another bodge job and the silencer was well rusted too. So here it is in bits after removal:
Following which, I inserted a sturdy screwdriver into the drain tap hole, sure enough it was absolutely solid. So with some help from a rubber mallet, I finally... got soaking wet as the blockage exploded free and a waterfall of manky dirty old coolant gushed free, most missing the bucket I'd placed below...
Anyway, after a spot of thumb over the hole to prevent all the good stuff escaping, tap was re-inserted (having been cleaned up beforehand), all working as it should. Though I do wonder whether the whole inside of the block is caked with similar amounts of gunk.
All I need now is to find a (preferably original) 7/16" UNF 1 3/8" long hex bolt for the transmission case to centre axle housing, as part of the horizontal exhaust butchering had involved removal of one to insert a long stud to hold a bracket for the silencer.
I applied some of this stuff, not expecting much to happen but worth a last try before much more drastic measures:
And as you can see, PlusGas worked its magic, along with use of as long a spanner as I could fit in the very awkward location, as the offending object is also pictured!
However, the expected torrent did not occur when the tap was removed, despite there being 7 litres of coolant in the system, instead I just saw this:
Not even a hint of coolant trickling out. So my fear of the thing being gunked up solid was indeed realised. But to get anything substantial like a large screwdriver in there for attempted removal of the blockage needed me to remove the horizontal exhaust pipe assembly, as the vertical downpipe passed right in front of this opening. Why only do one job when two will do, eh?
Anyway, I wanted to replace it, luckily, as it was another bodge job and the silencer was well rusted too. So here it is in bits after removal:
Following which, I inserted a sturdy screwdriver into the drain tap hole, sure enough it was absolutely solid. So with some help from a rubber mallet, I finally... got soaking wet as the blockage exploded free and a waterfall of manky dirty old coolant gushed free, most missing the bucket I'd placed below...
Anyway, after a spot of thumb over the hole to prevent all the good stuff escaping, tap was re-inserted (having been cleaned up beforehand), all working as it should. Though I do wonder whether the whole inside of the block is caked with similar amounts of gunk.
All I need now is to find a (preferably original) 7/16" UNF 1 3/8" long hex bolt for the transmission case to centre axle housing, as part of the horizontal exhaust butchering had involved removal of one to insert a long stud to hold a bracket for the silencer.