That would more likely cause a loss of drive unless of course it's jammed but I've never seen one break outDoesn't make any sense
No fun if it were easy mind you.
Clutch has the same weight all the way till the back of the pedal hits the bulkhead panel cover.
I hope the hub isn't broken out of the pto disc, thinking out loud
MF 575 pto confusion :-D
- Thread starter Ger575
- Start date
Giving the tractor a bit of work to get it properly hot may help to unstick it. Tip came from a car dealer as they get clutches sticking all the time if stock sits unsold. Reasoning is that the flywheel will get hot before the cover and the temperature differential will help free it. Dual clutch is different from normal single plate setup though so may not work. Will definitely need some sort of load on it to unstick.
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just a thought , i know it caught out a few on the 100 tractors
Turns out my guesstimate of "about 2mm" was miles out for the three setscrews between the clutches.
Got in there with feeler guages set to 2.05, which is 81 thou, and adjusted the three of them pretty much equal but certainly below 90 worst case.
My second stage on the pedal went from being the last quarter inch up to being about 40 or 45 percent of the total travel of the pedal, which I think is near enough to where it should be to give enough of a push on the PTO plate?
Tried using a heavy load in the transport box to unstick it a few times down (response set fast) and quickly up, catching it before it hit the ground, to try and shift it but no avail.
Will hook something on the pto to try and free up the plate when I get a chance.
So the moral of the story is...............even as a machinist, your judgement by eyeball of an 80 thou gap goes completely to pot when you are laying on yer back in the soaking wet grass peering into the dark underbelly of a 236 perkins in the p##sing rain
Now to get it unstuck
nothing on the link arms will be enough to free the plate. your only chance is to get the clutch hot then drop a rotavator or power harrow in the ground with the pedal fully depressed. your adjustment seems about right, you need enough movement on the main clutch for it to clear before you hit the second clutch.Turns out my guesstimate of "about 2mm" was miles out for the three setscrews between the clutches.
Got in there with feeler guages set to 2.05, which is 81 thou, and adjusted the three of them pretty much equal but certainly below 90 worst case.
My second stage on the pedal went from being the last quarter inch up to being about 40 or 45 percent of the total travel of the pedal, which I think is near enough to where it should be to give enough of a push on the PTO plate?
Tried using a heavy load in the transport box to unstick it a few times down (response set fast) and quickly up, catching it before it hit the ground, to try and shift it but no avail.
Will hook something on the pto to try and free up the plate when I get a chance.
So the moral of the story is...............even as a machinist, your judgement by eyeball of an 80 thou gap goes completely to pot when you are laying on yer back in the soaking wet grass peering into the dark underbelly of a 236 perkins in the p##sing rain
Now to get it unstuck
Every days a school day[emoji16] Never seen one like that. We certainly never sold one. Is it a banner lane or beauvais tractor?
Banner Lane.
Clutch shouldn't hit the bulkhead panel cover, well at least it didn't on the duel clutch 575 I use to drive it went down beside it
Yes. Split torque and dual pedal different
I haven't followed the whole thread but thought it was a dual clutch
if so it should miss the plastic panel
Nah, just catches the edge of the plastic, just misses the bulkhead underneath if the plasticis removed. Pedal is pretty straight though and I've seen some photos plus youtube vids where the pedal had a fairly distinct dogleg out to the left, thus clearing the bulkhead by miles.
Pedal may have been swapped by a previous owner for one from a scrapped split-torque model?
In my instance (from memory) it only yields about 3/8" at most as regards extra travel for the pedal.
Will experiment and if necessary modify the pedal the coming days if that extra little travel is what gets the job done.
Thanks guys as always for your input.
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Thanks, will get a lend of sumt from an agri contractor whom I do a fair bit of machining for. Probs a rotovator as his power harrows are way too much for 66 horsepower
Thanks so much Andy for helping and sharing your experience. Bit daunting till you get rightly buried into working on old girls like the MF. I was mainly a small engine fella like scooters, mowers and little 2 stroke repairs so all this stuff like dual clutches and such is a new one for me.
No doubt there will be some other daft questions in the coming months, but overall she is pretty good. I'll soon be addressing the slight issue with my balls (in the brake actuators LOL). Sometimes they are fine and progressive, other times not so. May need to replace the discs while in there but that kinda stuff is cheap to buy anyhooo. Halfshafts are a bit easier than doing a tractor split, just don't drop one on your big toe off of the engine hoist LOL
Have a few Kontak double acting spool slices so will install perhaps 3 soon onto the side of the selector valve that leaves the link arms parked. We've got a little MF80 loader too which is currently taking up my garage space as I restore it, mostly just cosmetic but I machined new piston and gland for one of the rams too.
Onto the side of the selector valve that keeps the link arms up top, I might mount two spools that will be plumbed up exclusively to the loader bracket, the others going to the back as per normal double-acting spool outlets (for single acting, just loop one side to your tankline.) There is a trailer tipping pipe already fitted to the normal tapping point on the top-left of the lift cover.
As I understand it, there are three places up top for plumbing a tankline, one by the draft spring, one midway on the left side and a tankline port on the selector valve. You can return below oil level as well, which might eliminate a bit of frothing but for my purposes the normal tapping poins ought to do just fine.
I guess the cab was swapped at some stage in the last 41 years, hence the clutch pedal wasn't the right version for the clutch fitted in the tractor.
Modified the pedal to have a crank outwards to the left so it looks a bit like the correct pedal now. Misses the edge of the bulkhead and hey presto, PTO clutch disengages drive about 1.25 or 1.5 inches before the end of the pedal stroke.....result.
A little heat, two very large stilsons for leverage and I didn't even set the cab on fire LOL or adversely affect the mettalurgy of the pedal to any appreciable degree.
Thanks for all the info and explanations during this thread. I appreciate my woes were kinda daft ones but we got there in the end
These old girls are a lot less daunting to work on once you actually get started into them, especially with so many helpful folks on here like MfAndy, Henarar and everybody who contributed above.
Thanks folks
Modified the pedal to have a crank outwards to the left so it looks a bit like the correct pedal now. Misses the edge of the bulkhead and hey presto, PTO clutch disengages drive about 1.25 or 1.5 inches before the end of the pedal stroke.....result.
A little heat, two very large stilsons for leverage and I didn't even set the cab on fire LOL or adversely affect the mettalurgy of the pedal to any appreciable degree.
Thanks for all the info and explanations during this thread. I appreciate my woes were kinda daft ones but we got there in the end
These old girls are a lot less daunting to work on once you actually get started into them, especially with so many helpful folks on here like MfAndy, Henarar and everybody who contributed above.
Thanks folks
Fievel Farmanimal
Member
- Location
- Salo, Finland
Sorry didn't read this earlier. I have 565 like that bought in Finland 1979 and made in Banner Lane. Parts can be seen in seventh pic from the end on my page:
http://www.haapasalontila.fi/MF565linkage.html