MF 6615 clutch slow to engage

I've recently been side loading with a 6615 Dyna 4 , the delay when changing up a range underload is around 1.5 to 2 seconds , long enough to clout the loading elevator which I've come close to doing, can the transmission be programmed so they bite sooner?
Cheers
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Don't change range any more than you would declutch and change a manual gearbox at a critical time. It's a 'semi-powershift' not a full 'powershift'. Anticipate and make sure you are in the correct range, You have six power shifts to work with without changing range.
It's called 'driving skill'. You could get away with it downhill, but when pulling hard it will declutch, possibly come to a stop, and restart. No different to a manual gearbox changing gear.
 
Last edited:

James

Member
Location
Comber, Down
What enoys me on dyna6 is they change straight from 3f into 4b no matter what your doin, be a lot better changing into 4a
You still can't beat the old 32speed dynashift it's a far better gearbox

My 7618 goes from 3f to 4a most of the time which really annoys me. Would disagree with you on the old dynashift box drove one last week and far far to many gears overlapping each other!
 

davedb

Member
Location
Staffordshire
Got a 7716 hear on hire of insurance and that will not go into 4a without I change range and then down into 4a straight away, as for the old dynashift all you need to do when in 3D is put clutch in change stick to 4 and dynashift down one click to c and your away then back up the dyna to d
With the 32 speed you've always got at least one gear faster and one slower than the speed you need but with a dyna 6 you can be caught between ranges dyna 4 is a lot worse for that tho
 
Don't change range any more than you would declutch and change a manual gearbox at a critical time. It's a 'semi-powershift' not a full 'powershift'. Anticipate and make sure you are in the correct range, You have six power shifts to work with without changing range.
It's called 'driving skill'. You could get away with it downhill, but when pulling hard it will declutch, possibly come to a stop, and restart. No different to a manual gearbox changing gear.

Its a Dyna 4 as I mentioned in my post , we tend to be loading in 1D and 2A and here lies the problem , the ground varies therefore so does the speed, the shift up the range is MUCH SLOWER to bite than a conventional clutch , I also drive a JD 6150R , no issues with that .
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Its a Dyna 4 as I mentioned in my post , we tend to be loading in 1D and 2A and here lies the problem , the ground varies therefore so does the speed, the shift up the range is MUCH SLOWER to bite than a conventional clutch , I also drive a JD 6150R , no issues with that .

I've a D4 and can't say that it's slow changing range. Not if you use the button or the clutch pedal. What it will do at slow forward speed and/or with a significant load to pull is to come to a stop and re-start. As with any mechanical transmission. As with the NH Range Command. As with any semi-powershift when a range change is called for.

However, yours may have a longer delay before re-engaging the clutch than is normal. I can't tell from here.

I have some experience with both D4, which I own, and with D6. The D4 is a bit limited when it comes to working at constant revs and it tends to feel as if drive is lost for quite a while when changing down power shifts, never mind ranges, when being pushed down steep hills, which can be disconcerting.
Certainly early D6 didn't like it when declutched at, say, a roundabout, but without stopping, being re-engaged and power added. The clutch often slipped badly when in this scenario. Not sure whether a software update cured that or not.

Yes, they take some getting used to and, being very reliant on software, are sometimes prone to odd behaviour. As others have said, first thing to do is to calibrate it. Not sure why MF don't provide the instructions to do this in the manual, because New Holland do. There's no good reason for it to be a secret.

If that doesn't work and you are absolutely convinced that there is a fault that makes it behave differently than other tractors of the same model, get the dealer out to sort it.

On balance and apart from the limited number of total ratios, I like the D4 very much. I would prefer a D6 but they can stuff their 'Autodrive' where the sun don't shine, and, yes, I do know how to use it perfectly well. I can handle it but casual or rare drivers get into an awful muddle and that pishes me off big time.
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Here's the Dyna 4 sequence copied from a previous thread. Dyna6 should be the same, but I'm not sure whether the position of the Autodrive dial is significant or not [if fitted]

Assuming this is a dyna 6 tractor the calibration is for the fwd/rev shuttle is a follows,

1- bring the transmission up to temperature, with the engine running press and hold the diff lock switch and the range button in the end of the t bar and the temperature will be displayed on the RH dot matrix screen. Aim for somewhere around 38 degrees but anywhere 35-45 is acceptable.

2, park the tractor on level ground and release the handbrake, disengage all a/c pto, diff lock, 4wd etc, set engine to 1500 rpm I use the a/b preset buttons if fitted.

3, hold the fwd/rev lever in its raised position above its fwd position and press and hold the diff lock switch, after a few seconds the range lights should start flashing 1-4 when the do release both switches, the transmission should now auto calibrate.

4, calibration is complete when the range lights flash 1-2.

Good luck!
 

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