MF35 4 cylinder problems

[kill]

Crack open all 4 injectors to start with. As said the stopper needs to be in.
Have you blown all the pipes through with an air line.
There is a gause filter in the lift pump that may possibly be dirty.
Check all pipes are right and the olives are under the nuts and in good condition.
Find a Lo--------------ng steep hill and give her a good bump start

 

[EnglishMike]

All great advice thank you guys. I'll be back at it tomorrow and let you know how I get on

 

[mikep]

Ok have no idea why this works but sometimes it does. Give it a blast of 'start you barsteward' and crank it. The knock from the starting may be what you need. Used it on ford industrial engines that wouldn't bleed and it worked. One was a real stubborn bitch and I had it running on the stuff before it fired itself.

 

[Mursal]

Consider a headlight so you can report back in real time?

 

[Mursal]

NO EASY START, regardless what the Australians call it ..............

 

[two-cylinder]

Ok have no idea why this works but sometimes it does. Give it a blast of 'start you barsteward' and crank it. The knock from the starting may be what you need. Used it on ford industrial engines that wouldn't bleed and it worked. One was a real stubborn bitch and I had it running on the stuff before it fired itself.

Devils juice....easy start is never the answer-sort the problem not the symptom.

 

[Ray]

Hi all. Just found this forum while googling my mf35 problem. It looks very interesting in general so I shall have a good mooch around the site once I have my tractor running.
So.. bought the tractor last month and played about on it for a few hours. Cold starting and not ticking over well so I took it in the barn for an injection system clean up and tune up with the hope that I can make it start easier.
All 4 injectors refurbed, new fuel filter, new big battery, new Ford starter motor to make it crank faster, fuel tank flushed out and new tap and glass bowl assembly.
The fuel is bled at the filter and at the injector pump bleed screws but nothing appearing at the injectors whether by the lift pump or by cranking the engine. Also there is a chuff chuff chuff noise while the engine is cranking...
Any help greatfully received.

The chuffing noise you speak of sounds like it may well be a poor seating or burnt out valve. If so you may be lucky just re setting the valve clearances...

 

[mikep]

Devils juice....easy start is never the answer-sort the problem not the symptom.

I

Not true, don't be too bigoted as everything had its use occasionally. I don't suggest regular use just to get the thing fuelling. I don't care what I use but I found it did work in my situation. If you want to do it the 'right way' and spend hours pissing about fine but to me I will try anything like this because if it works job done, time and money saved.

 

[REStracTORATION]

Don't snort her with crack, as it's what it will do to your rings.

Squirt duck oil around injectors when cranking over to see the blow back to tell you which injectors are leaking.



Have you ever had it running previous to stripping it down, was it chuffing like an asthmatic rihno then.

 

[mikep]

PS sub'trd is the recommended and first way to test for cam belt failure.

 

[REStracTORATION]

PS sub'trd is the recommended and first way to test for cam belt failure.

Swan vestas and a can of crack
Will sort any problems

 

[mikep]

Don't snort her with crack, as it's what it will do to your rings.

Squirt duck oil around injectors when cranking over to see the blow back to tell you which injectors are leaking.



Have you ever had it running previous to stripping it down, was it chuffing like an asthmatic rihno then.

This thing about doing rings in is a bit of a red herring I think never known it to happen but heard loads of people that know someone it had happened to etc. The
stuff is just used regularly on a shagged engine, I had an old inter that lived on the stuff for years and knocked like hell on starting. The rings leaked before and leaked after but never broke and as I said it's used on shagged engines so if they grenade it's the easy start?

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

Ok have no idea why this works but sometimes it does. Give it a blast of 'start you barsteward' and crank it. The knock from the starting may be what you need. Used it on ford industrial engines that wouldn't bleed and it worked. One was a real stubborn bitch and I had it running on the stuff before it fired itself.

oh dear not a good idea, how would you like it for someone to come a kick you in the nut if you did not start in a morning, as its just the same, yes you will start but that done to you every morning, you would not last long,

there is to main reasons for this helping it start, the first is if there has been no fuel in it, ie drainer to clean and flush it out, or its ran out of diesel, the vanes in the pump will not spin fast enough the get pressure up as when dry they can stick in and centrifugal force on starter alone will not throw them out to build pressure up,

the second one is the filter on the back of the pump, yes there is one on the inlet pipe, if you look there is a big nut just after the the pipe union fitting, if this filter gets blocked or a restriction in it, then this causes a vacuum, and although the tractor will run ok, once stopped, it will suck fuel back from the vanes in the pump,

as said by someone else the stopper can stick, and after taking the pump top off be careful not to damage the gasket, there is usually a lot of gunge and crap built up around the stopper linkage, clean and free off and refit,

after all the above has been done, either give it a tow at high speed, or I just put 24 volts into the starter with 2 batteries, this makes it spin very fast and the vanes will pump the fuel,

once you have it starting easy and good when warm back on 12 volts, if it wont start cold, then you have other problems

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

This thing about doing rings in is a bit of a red herring I think never known it to happen but heard loads of people that know someone it had happened to etc. The
stuff is just used regularly on a shagged engine, I had an old inter that lived on the stuff for years and knocked like hell on starting. The rings leaked before and leaked after but never broke and as I said it's used on shagged engines so if they grenade it's the easy start?

I have seen several engines with broken rings, not all broken but top 1 and second one, once there broken they jam into the piston grove, and a no good for anything,

 

[mikep]

PS just remembered this. Does rings in?

 

[REStracTORATION]

This thing about doing rings in is a bit of a red herring I think never known it to happen but heard loads of people that know someone it had happened to etc. The
stuff is just used regularly on a shagged engine, I had an old inter that lived on the stuff for years and knocked like hell on starting. The rings leaked before and leaked after but never broke and as I said it's used on shagged engines so if they grenade it's the easy start?

Seen plenty of good starting tractors
To then use snort because of weak battery or starter motor
Fix said batt or starter won't start hey presto broken firing ring
That's why they get addicted to it


Love the saying starts 1st time.....






With a sniff

Yes in some applications I use it but only as a last resort really I wouldn't advise to use straight away without checking the simple things 1st

 

[REStracTORATION]

PS just remembered this. Does rings in? View attachment 613850

Headgaskets

 

[mikep]

oh dear not a good idea, how would you like it for someone to come a kick you in the nut if you did not start in a morning, as its just the same, yes you will start but that done to you every morning, you would not last long,

there is to main reasons for this helping it start, the first is if there has been no fuel in it, ie drainer to clean and flush it out, or its ran out of diesel, the vanes in the pump will not spin fast enough the get pressure up as when dry they can stick in and centrifugal force on starter alone will not throw them out to build pressure up,

the second one is the filter on the back of the pump, yes there is one on the inlet pipe, if you look there is a big nut just after the the pipe union fitting, if this filter gets blocked or a restriction in it, then this causes a vacuum, and although the tractor will run ok, once stopped, it will suck fuel back from the vanes in the pump,

as said by someone else the stopper can stick, and after taking the pump top off be careful not to damage the gasket, there is usually a lot of gunge and crap built up around the stopper linkage, clean and free off and refit,

after all the above has been done, either give it a tow at high speed, or I just put 24 volts into the starter with 2 batteries, this makes it spin very fast and the vanes will pump the fuel,

once you have it starting easy and good when warm back on 12 volts, if it wont start cold, then you have other problems

I think the problem had been defined if you read the post, it doesn't fuel been bled to the pump so that why it won't start I would surmise.
Just posted a way that had worked for me for the op to try. May work may not but worth a try. It will certainly flag up any basic mechanical problems as well.

 

[Mursal]

Best not to use Easy Start, to hard to use properly.
Need to have the engine cranking over first, so best not use it at all.
But .......

 

[manhill]

Best not to use Easy Start, to hard to use properly.
Need to have the engine cranking over first, so best not use it at all.
But .......

The 35 makes an awful knock with easystart. Would only us it in desperation. Perkins have a fitting to hold a can of ether for cold climate starting on MF3000 series. Must be tougher engines.