MF35 4 cylinder problems

Rs chunk

Member
I occasionally use a squirt of easy start on certain occasions when having starting issue on something I’m working at just to get it to start that first time. Usually when you need to use easy start on a engine all the time it’s beacause it’s already worn. What about Canada and the states where they have either injection kits on the lorries and the tractors and use it a lot in cold weather.
 

Dirt!croston

Member
Location
Lancashire
Hasn't this been covered in a previous cant get my 4 cyl 35 to start. As for not using easy start, why did MF fit what they called Ki Gas which was a small tank that could be filled with ether or diesel and was pumped in with a small button pump for cold starting.
That's part of the heating system on early ones for heating not burning it really, same as merlin engines
 

EnglishMike

Member
The knack that I have discovered to not get the bang is to start cranking the engine and then start spraying short squirts at the inlet pipe before the air filter allowing the engine to fire up gently.
I'm hoping to get it set up so it doesn't need ANY Sleezy Start at all. A challenge to myself
 

EnglishMike

Member
Happy New Year everyone.
After the Christmas break the local injection specialist is now open for business again so time for me to remove the pump and rake it in for refurb.
So what's the procedure for removing the pump please? Do i need to set the timing with the hole in the flywheel before i remove the pump? Can I just unbolt the pump from the engine or does anything need to be addressed or removed first imside the timing cover etc?
 

Mydexta

Member
Location
Dundee/angus
I could be wrong on this, but if it’s running fine I would pin the flywheel via the hole in the block to lock the flywheel, then open the inspection chamber on the pump and take note of the letter and it’s position in relation to circling.


When you remove the pump (remember all the fuel pipes) via the 3 bolts in a triangular pattern the pump should slip back towards the seat, either bringing the short shaft with it, or leaving it in the gearbox. This shaft is keyed so will only fit back in 1 position, so as long as nobody removes the pin in the flywheel and moves the tractor, then the pump should go back in the same
Place
 

EnglishMike

Member
20180109_132113.jpg
Thanks for that info guys. It's pretty much what is figured so got the pump removed and deli weed to my recon man this afternoon. Should be ready a week tomorrow. Took plenty of pics of the pump and pipe arrangemnet before i tool the pump off too.
Any comments on the position of the G timing mark with the pin through the flywheel hole gratefully received.
 

EnglishMike

Member
By the way, my injection man said straight away that the stop mechanism inside the pump was stuck in the stop position. Easy to tell as there was no resistance at all on the stop lever on the pump. Best left in the hands of a specialist I feel rather than me mashing around in there and getting it wrong
 

Dirt!croston

Member
Location
Lancashire
By the way, my injection man said straight away that the stop mechanism inside the pump was stuck in the stop position. Easy to tell as there was no resistance at all on the stop lever on the pump. Best left in the hands of a specialist I feel rather than me mashing around in there and getting it wrong
Its a bit out if the circlip is in the correct position, make sure your pump man puts it back in the correct place.
http://www.cianmcgovern.com/manuals/MF35.pdf
should help.
 
By the way, my injection man said straight away that the stop mechanism inside the pump was stuck in the stop position. Easy to tell as there was no resistance at all on the stop lever on the pump. Best left in the hands of a specialist I feel rather than me mashing around in there and getting it wrong
;);)

(y)
 

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As reported in Independent


quote: “Red Tractor has confirmed it is dropping plans to launch its green farming assurance standard in April“

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