MF35 Lower link pin Replacement

beekeeperDan

New Member
Hi folks. I'e been replacing lower link arms on MF35 with interchangeable cat1/2 type. Got the castellated nut moving on the right side and seemed to be coming off nicely if not a bit stiff. Used plenty of heat to get it unstuck before undoing. Now the nut is off, it seems the thread on the nut is deformed and it's either stripped the thread on the link pin on removal or at some point in the past and just been put back together again. Link pins are cheap, but how easy is it to get the axle casing off and replace it? What are the pitfalls to look out for? Anyone done this? Am I better off rethreading and using a slightly smaller nut? What's your advice?

Thanks in advance,
Dan
 

beekeeperDan

New Member
The axles are easy to remove
But listen as your sat on the seat remove the left hand axle only!!!!!

So wheel and mudguard off drain back end oil remove ring of bolts lift axle off
Then lift the diff out you can get to the right side lower pin from the left
Change both pins

Thanks for that, I know what I'm doing when the weather warms up a bit then ;o) Will go with a temporary fix so I still move crates of firewood around in the meantime.
 

beekeeperDan

New Member
Axle casings very straightening to remove and re fit. IIRC you can do both pins by removing the L/H one? Soneone will remember better than me. Other option is put the nut back on and a good tack of weld to hold it in place, be grand then till next time.....
Many thanks, I'll go with temporary fix of weld until the weather improves and then it's left axle casing off and replace 'em both!
 

MrNoo

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Cirencester
When I do the TEF 20's I take both trumpets off and leave the diff in situ, just need to lever it up into place when re-fitting the shafts, never tried to do it all from one side! You'll need to check end float on the shafts when you put it back together, they dont want to bind and I think they should have 5 to 7 thou end float. Maybe the 35 if different to the 20!? I will be finding out shortly as have bought a 35 for match ploughing.
 

beekeeperDan

New Member
When I do the TEF 20's I take both trumpets off and leave the diff in situ, just need to lever it up into place when re-fitting the shafts, never tried to do it all from one side! You'll need to check end float on the shafts when you put it back together, they dont want to bind and I think they should have 5 to 7 thou end float. Maybe the 35 if different to the 20!? I will be finding out shortly as have bought a 35 for match ploughing.

Thanks for that, the extra info will be useful. I have a service manual with end float data. Happy to share that btw if anyone needs it it's in pdf and I have unlocked it so it's printable too - covers all mf35 variants. I have no idea who the copyright holder is or if it's even in copyright so best pm me if you need a copy.
 

MrNoo

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Cirencester
Sorry I meant to say, lever it the diff up when fitting the trumpets back on, need to ensure the taper rollers fit into the outer bearing cage, hence why I suspect it maybe easier taking the diff out!
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
Hi folks. I'e been replacing lower link arms on MF35 with interchangeable cat1/2 type. Got the castellated nut moving on the right side and seemed to be coming off nicely if not a bit stiff. Used plenty of heat to get it unstuck before undoing. Now the nut is off, it seems the thread on the nut is deformed and it's either stripped the thread on the link pin on removal or at some point in the past and just been put back together again. Link pins are cheap, but how easy is it to get the axle casing off and replace it? What are the pitfalls to look out for? Anyone done this? Am I better off rethreading and using a slightly smaller nut? What's your advice?

Thanks in advance,
Dan
A word of warning. I think you either used too much heat, or moved the nut while it was too hot, causing the thread to pick up. If heat is used in this situation, let things cool before trying to move them, indeed quenching a hot rusted nut will help free it.
 

beekeeperDan

New Member
Thanks Ley253 - I think you are probably correct. I was trying to do too quickly and may well not have waited long enough before removing. Will definitely be quenching in future as that is an annoying amount of work I've made for myself. Should have gone for a cuppa.
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
Thanks Ley253 - I think you are probably correct. I was trying to do too quickly and may well not have waited long enough before removing. Will definitely be quenching in future as that is an annoying amount of work I've made for myself. Should have gone for a cuppa.
If you have the room, it may be possible to cut a metric thread on the stub, and if so, your away. A die nut may do the job, I know they should only be used for cleaning up a damaged thread, but nothing ventured...........
 

beekeeperDan

New Member
Update. I took the other one off and used loads more heat, quenching and completely cooling each time and working it off and on a little bit at a time, slowly, slowly. Wd40, working it off and on. More heating and quenching and the thread is still damaged on that one too (although not as much as the first). I'm putting it down to it being up to 57 years of rust and possibly poor treatment in the past. My solution has been to get a nice old English die nut, made in Sheffield,d and recut the threads on both sides to clean them up and fit new nuts. This was satisfactory but it was very easy to turn the nuts by hand as the threads are obviously not what they once were. I added 30 winds of PTFE tape to each thread and put the nuts back on and now they are both tight and not going anywhere until I get the time to replace them. This is not an ideal fix, but it will do until I get the time to do it properly.

The lift arms are now fitted but I had to replace the bushes and bolts and check chain brackets as the bushes were worn right through and the bolts were almost through. Nobody had taken this apart for a very long time.
 

MrNoo

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Cirencester
They are always like that on any Fergie or 35, if you are really lucky you may find one that has been welded up, oversize nut and then weld!!! As you say simple enough to do just time consuming and fortunately bits are cheap and plentiful!!
 

Tim Cairns

Member
Livestock Farmer
Just to continue with this subject. My Ferguson 35 has lower link pins fitted which are 3/4" dia, rather than 7/8" dia, which most replacement linkages seem to have. Rather than fit new pins, would fitting sleeves (3/4" ID, 7/8" OD) be the best solution - replacement pins of 7/8" dia seem to be readily available.
 

Hardy_Spicer

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Ireland
Thought they were all the same pins from the Ferguson 20s right up to the MF148


To answer your question it depends on what all you plan to use the tractor for. If you think putting in bushings will suffice your work it will be OK. I usually cut the lift arms where the balls are and hammer tight the ball and reweld the cut while im at it to keep all tight.
 

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