MF6290 - clutch safety switch

[Steevo]

Seems like this switch is on the way out as it's occasionally temperamental when starting and makes you think twice.

Serial on the tractor starts with an H so seems this is the right parts diagram. Which switch am I looking to change please?

Dealer has supplied me two switches which seems strange, and having looked up this diagram I'm unsure if either is correct.

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

Apparently the clutch position switch is no. 2 on the diagram. Requires clutch calibration following replacement. Google it and there's a thread on the Irish F4F about replacement. Probably get a slap from Clive if I link to it.

Seems the part got upgraded at some point, hence the replacement part for your serial number range is 3784055M1

e.g. from online supplier:

Clutch Switch - 3784055M1

Fits Massey Ferguson 6200 Series 6235, 6245, 6255, 6260, 6265, 6270, 6280, 6290 8200 Series 8210, 8220, 8240, 8250, 8270, 8280

www.farmingparts.com

(I don't ordinarily post at 4am, but I'm feeling some insomnia tonight, reading about clutch switches has made me sleepy again. )

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

....err scrap that. insomnia kicking in. If its a safety switch, rather than position switch its going to be an on/off type rather than a potentiometer type.

So in the face of insomnia, let's try thinking about this logically; if its a "safety" switch for starting etc, then it wants to be either NO or NC when the clutch is fully depressed right? Which switch is active when the clutch is fully depressed? There's your switch.

I'm back to bed now. G'nite.

 

[GFA]

Looks like switch no 1 is the safety start switch. If its awkward to get in to change open the bonnet and remove the bolt and nut through the bulkhead and possibly a bolt at the pedal and the hole pedal box lifts out to make it easier. Years since I've done one so can't remember exactly.

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

Looks like switch no 1 is the safety start switch. If its awkward to get in to change open the bonnet and remove the bolt and nut through the bulkhead and possibly a bolt at the pedal and the hole pedal box lifts out to make it easier. Years since I've done one so can't remember exactly.

The boys on F4F were saying it was possibly easier to take the entire pedal unit out and do remove it in the on the bench - that was for the adjacent position (parameter?) sensor though at position 2. Maybe the safety switch at position 1 is easier to undo and replace....dunno

 

[SMID]

Been in their in the past for all the time to take the pedal out its the easiest option.

 

[Steevo]

Thanks for the help. It's done now - hopefully it's right.

Ended up replacing no. 1 on the diagram. No. 2 was I assume a potentiometer switch (had a rod that stuck out and retracted, a bit like those refillable pencils!).

The other switch I was provided with was not like that at all....but was also a "button" type switch.

That said.....having looked at the invoice paperwork that I now have the switches provided are marked "top of clutch switch" and "bottom of clutch switch". Perhaps there was a hiccup somewhere in communication....

 

[Shanek2003]

When you replaced them parts did anything need to be calibrated?? Thanks

 

[Steevo]

No calibration needed at all, all worked just fine.