MF6490 - sharp clutch

[Bucket r1]

it is if its causing the tractor not to boost as it'll be dead

Doesn't seem to be doing anything to performance feels same as always did any way to remove code from screen other than fixing problem

 

[Roy Stokes]

Doesn't seem to be doing anything to performance feels same as always did any way to remove code from screen other than fixing problem

No, the code will keep returning unless you fork out for splitting it, shameful of MF not to do an upgrade on the T254 problem as everyone in this area with a 64 series has had to split before 5000 hrs, not good enough, you can clear the screen with the black scrolling button on the right of the dash but as soon as the sensor looses sight of the crappy piece of tin on the input shaft T254 will be back again

 

[Bucket r1]

No, the code will keep returning unless you fork out for splitting it, shameful of MF not to do an upgrade on the T254 problem as everyone in this area with a 64 series has had to split before 5000 hrs, not good enough, you can clear the screen with the black scrolling button on the right of the dash but as soon as the sensor looses sight of the crappy piece of tin on the input shaft T254 will be back again

 

[Bucket r1]

Will it do any harm running it like that how much for repair

 

[Steevo]

very sorry Jack but it seems to me MF are cheap to buy in comparison to premium tractors but expensive to run, if you must buy, take the extended warranty and get rid as soon as it runs out

I'm not sure that's quite true. All tractors break down. Almost all parts are expensive. There is little to choose between the main brands....

 

[Farma Parma]

Ive had my share of issues with two 6480's but thankfully they have always started & always done there jobs.
But considering how much these things cost they really should be Built better to last longer.
My last one which is still under ext warranty is getting jobs done atm & lets hope its better for it when it returns.
Coz theres sod all money in our job atm to keep replacing them just for the sake of it.

 

[Bucket r1]

Ive had my share of issues with two 6480's but thankfully they have always started & always done there jobs.
But considering how much these things cost they really should be Built better to last longer.
My last one which is still under ext warranty is getting jobs done atm & lets hope its better for it when it returns.
Coz theres sod all money in our job atm to keep replacing them just for the sake of it.

Mines is getting to the stage of needing changed 4700 hrs but hope to get summer out of it

 

[Farma Parma]

Mines is getting to the stage of needing changed 4700 hrs but hope to get summer out of it

Hope your sitting down when or if you get a quote on its 7600 or new 7700 Rep then...
There not in the real world compared to our end product prices..

 

[Roy Stokes]

I'm not sure that's quite true. All tractors break down. Almost all parts are expensive. There is little to choose between the main brands....

Banks's Contractors local to us, much like myself when I was contracting have no brand loyalty and have had almost every mainstream brand going, they have one Massey to keep one brother happy as he likes it, they take the extended warranty and get rid as soon as it is finished, Tom Banks told me they have only ever got 5000hrs out of any Massey before it needs to go, same with NH, however their Deere's are capable of going much longer without major repair bills and they have a couple of 6930's with very high hours on the clock

Before anyone says that I am loyal to Deere, yes I have a passion for SG cabbed Deere's but during my contracting years I owned Case, Fendt, Ford and Deere's, which ever manufacturer had a product to fit the job really, and the Fendt's lasted better out of all of those

 

[Bucket r1]

Does it do any harm running without fixing sensor

 

[Roy Stokes]

Does it do any harm running without fixing sensor

No

 

[Bucket r1]

Thanks

 

[Rust]

Assuming this is a dyna 6 tractor the calibration is for the fwd/rev shuttle is a follows,

1- bring the transmission up to temperature, with the engine running press and hold the diff lock switch and the range button in the end of the t bar and the temperature will be displayed on the RH dot matrix screen. Aim for somewhere around 38 degrees but anywhere 35-45 is acceptable.

2, park the tractor on level ground and release the handbrake, disengage all a/c pto, diff lock, 4wd etc, set engine to 1500 rpm I use the a/b preset buttons if fitted.

3, hold the fwd/rev lever in its raised position above its fwd position and press and hold the diff lock switch, after a few seconds the range lights should start flashing 1-4 when the do release both switches, the transmission should now auto calibrate.

4, calibration is complete when the range lights flash 1-2.

Good luck!

So when it's finished what do you do ? Restart engine ?

 

[jack6480]

Mines done 3000 hours with error codes and it's not flat can't beat a 6480 there probably the best tractors ever made

 

[Rookie]

So when it's finished what do you do ? Restart engine ?

Just put forward / reverse lever back into neutral position then drive off as you would normally. Shouldnt need to stop / start engine.

 

[Grassman]

Mines done 3000 hours with error codes and it's not flat can't beat a 6480 there probably the best tractors ever made

I wonder how many agree with you

 

[Mf6260]

The 6200/8200 series powershuttle tractors can be calibrated I think like this.... It's from memory so could be wrong!

1- hold the hi/lo button (push stick across on early tractors) and the diff lock switch together for a few seconds, the dynashift lights should flash, warm the transmission up until you get all the lights lit constantly, not flashing, if d starts flashing its too hot.

2, restart the engine and release the clutch, do not repress the pedal during the next steps or you will have to start over

3, ensure gear lever is in neutral and select tortoise range, ensure 4wd, diff lock and pto are all disengaged and increase engine rpm to 1500 using the hand throttle

4, put the powershuttle lever into forwards position and ensure the arrow on the dash lights up, press and hold the diff lock switch and high lo selector until the fwd/rev lights start flashing and then release them, the transmission should now auto calibrate. The buzzer/ bleeper should sound.

5, calibration is complete when only the fwd light illuminates and the buzzer stops.

I'm fairly sure that's right!

This was very helpful. Ive needed my 6260 recalibrating for a while. Every time I tried it didn't really work. I hadn't got the gear box hot enough. Changed the power shuttle filter and give it a good run out today thought I might give it ago when I got back. Followed your instructions and it worked perfectly. Feels like a new one, im so chuffed thanks for your post.

 

[Bucket r1]

Can't get my 6465 to calibrate lights flash 1-4 but nothing happens

 

[Mf6260]

Can't get my 6465 to calibrate lights flash 1-4 but nothing happens

When I actually got my 62 to calibrate the lights didn't flash like they had on failed attempts but u could hear the change in engine note and see the rebs drop a smidge. Try and make sure its at the right temperature

 

[Rust]

Assuming this is a dyna 6 tractor the calibration is for the fwd/rev shuttle is a follows,

1- bring the transmission up to temperature, with the engine running press and hold the diff lock switch and the range button in the end of the t bar and the temperature will be displayed on the RH dot matrix screen. Aim for somewhere around 38 degrees but anywhere 35-45 is acceptable.

2, park the tractor on level ground and release the handbrake, disengage all a/c pto, diff lock, 4wd etc, set engine to 1500 rpm I use the a/b preset buttons if fitted.

3, hold the fwd/rev lever in its raised position above its fwd position and press and hold the diff lock switch, after a few seconds the range lights should start flashing 1-4 when the do release both switches, the transmission should now auto calibrate.

4, calibration is complete when the range lights flash 1-2.

Good luck!

Do the -5 to +5 adjustments on the left hand screen have to be returned to 0 before calabration is started ??