Mowers

Nithsdale

Member
Livestock Farmer
We have a 2003 Krone 9ft disc mower - maybe they've changed them since then but ours is a good mower. It has been abused (before we got it 2nd hand). We cut about 120acres a year with it. The frame is rotten out and there's a leak from the bed so we bought a new 9ft Malone (intention is to do up the Krone 🙄). Malone is very nice to work and makes an excellent job... but I prefer the old Krone - it takes less power, too
 
We have a 2003 Krone 9ft disc mower - maybe they've changed them since then but ours is a good mower. It has been abused (before we got it 2nd hand). We cut about 120acres a year with it. The frame is rotten out and there's a leak from the bed so we bought a new 9ft Malone (intention is to do up the Krone 🙄). Malone is very nice to work and makes an excellent job... but I prefer the old Krone - it takes less power, too
The most frequent problem with my Krone is burning out the slip clutch. It does it most years and sometimes twice on less acres than you're mowing. It's only done 5 seasons.

They've said run it with more revs, go faster, go slower, it makes no difference. New blades make no difference.

I know if I go into a reasonable crop it's likely to happen. But the old Vicon drum mower never had any problems in similar crops. I also find the blades very hard to change.

Have you used the topping skids on your Malone?
 

Nithsdale

Member
Livestock Farmer
The most frequent problem with my Krone is burning out the slip clutch. It does it most years and sometimes twice on less acres than you're mowing. It's only done 5 seasons.

They've said run it with more revs, go faster, go slower, it makes no difference. New blades make no difference.

I know if I go into a reasonable crop it's likely to happen. But the old Vicon drum mower never had any problems in similar crops. I also find the blades very hard to change.

Have you used the topping skids on your Malone?

We've never touched the clutch on our Krone. I've had it go/slip if I proper boke it solid trying to finish points - running it on 95-135hp tractors. Should say, it doesn't have a conditioner

I like that it's shaft driven, it's smoother and saps less power than the Malone (belts) - The Malone pulls back the 135hp on (very) steep hills whereas it doesn't notice the Krone.

And the Malone sits stupidly low to the ground in transport position - you can hit/bang the belt cover off the ground going I've a rough bit if you don't lift the mower on the arms. Even lifted, it's still low... which means you've to reset the height every field you go into. The Krone you set the arms then never touch them again.

Haven't used the topping skids on either, we have an old topper for the job


We used to run trailed WM250 Class drum mowers 😍 had 2 for a short while, but the Krone disc and now Malone are more productive machines IMO
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
I bought a brand new 8' Major disc mower 5 years ago. First time I used it ,left a six inch stubble. Phoned dealer but he wouldn't come out."Shorten the top link" he said. Left it so short she was sitting at 45 degrees into the ground. Still left a big stubble. Fed up.
Left her in shed for 3 years.
Friend looked at her last year....blades in the wrong way round. Cuts clean now.
Dealer is a wonker.
He’s not the only one if the operator couldn’t work that out for themselves. :eek:
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
The most frequent problem with my Krone is burning out the slip clutch. It does it most years and sometimes twice on less acres than you're mowing. It's only done 5 seasons.

They've said run it with more revs, go faster, go slower, it makes no difference. New blades make no difference.

I know if I go into a reasonable crop it's likely to happen. But the old Vicon drum mower never had any problems in similar crops. I also find the blades very hard to change.

Have you used the topping skids on your Malone?
Is it meant to be run at 1000 PTO rpm? If so, ensure it actually runs at around 1030 to 1050 under load and never let it lug down to below 950. Also, does it have an aggressive conditioner wound down to achieve near maximum conditions? If so, slacken it off considerably if pushing on in a heavy wet crop. Is the slip clutch adjustable? Make sure it is tightened down properly and periodically check and readjust as necessary.
Blades are very easily changed on all mowers if the exposed bolt threads are cleaned and an impact wrench used, possibly with a wedge to hold disks and a screwdriver or small flat bar used to hold the bolts up in their placement while being wrenched. A quarter hour, half at most, should see all knives turned or replaced after a little practice.
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
I only ever had a drum mower before so not familiar with disc blades that have a twist. Unlike you,I will readily admit I don't know everything about everything.
Surely you would investigate why a mower was not actually mowing. Unlike what you imply, it’s certainly not rocket science and a few cursory glances even without referring to the operator’s manual should have made the cause of its deficiency obvious.

Having said that, the older I get, the more it takes to surprise me.
 
Is it meant to be run at 1000 PTO rpm? If so, ensure it actually runs at around 1030 to 1050 under load and never let it lug down to below 950. Also, does it have an aggressive conditioner wound down to achieve near maximum conditions? If so, slacken it off considerably if pushing on in a heavy wet crop. Is the slip clutch adjustable? Make sure it is tightened down properly and periodically check and readjust as necessary.
Blades are very easily changed on all mowers if the exposed bolt threads are cleaned and an impact wrench used, possibly with a wedge to hold disks and a screwdriver or small flat bar used to hold the bolts up in their placement while being wrenched. A quarter hour, half at most, should see all knives turned or replaced after a little practice.
Thanks for the suggestions. They told me it's 540 but to run it about 580. It doesn't have a conditioner. I'll check about slip clutch adjustment but it's never been mentioned at any of the times it's been replaced. Yes, replacing blades needs more practise, I'm just fed up with the thing :rolleyes:
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Thanks for the suggestions. They told me it's 540 but to run it about 580. It doesn't have a conditioner. I'll check about slip clutch adjustment but it's never been mentioned at any of the times it's been replaced. Yes, replacing blades needs more practise, I'm just fed up with the thing :rolleyes:
It certainly shouldn’t be run at under 540 and as a plain mower it shouldn’t take much power to run. If the clutch is of the friction pad type, adjusted by nuts and bolts holding the plates in tension through coil springs, then the tension on those springs is critical and if left to slip during a steady load, they will wear and slacken to the point they slip badly and burn out quickly.

I can understand you being fed up with the thing. Some machines just do not suit some people and if they get off on the wrong footing, so to speak, the 'relationship' will possibly never work. It can turn to an irrational hatred of a particular machine or tool or whatever else. That’s just the way things are.
 
I'm on drum mowers, due to multiple igneous issues.
Cutting 120-150 acres a year. (some easier ground is farmed out to contractors)

Whatever badges are on PZ now....they're junk due to vastly lowered spec, as far as I can see. Ne'er saw the end of a 2nd season with the latter ones- which is a great shame, as they used to go on and on.

Tried a generic eastern European PZ rip off....less than a season before it broke in half.

We spent a LOT on a Fella drum, but a lad really walloped it on a rock.
And despite spending a LOT on repair, it's been chucked in the hedge in despair. Don't think it ever cut a whole season.

We went to Samaz maybe 7-8 years ago, and are number 3 now.
We still break them, but have found Weaving very straight, helpful, and sensible with spares.
First make our spanner man has consistently been mending when summat breaks......

I am likely to try a small disc at some point, but endless 'you ought to use disc mowers like ours....but no we wouldn't want to cut your grass with it' stories have long deterred me.
If you're on safe ground...i would've thought a modest disc machine would be a good bet, but Samaz are OK for what they are.
Claas make the best drum mowers
 

steveR

Member
Mixed Farmer
Bought a new Malone disc from Pyketts last year. Old stock but not an issue for me. Price was right.

Delighted with the performance compared to the old Drum mowers. I specced multiple skids* on the advice of the Malone tech guy here in the UK, as I wanted it for mowing herbal leys leaving long stubbles, and also to try for topping of pasture. Again, delighted with both jobs over the Summer.

TBH, using a Contractor would have been better, but none would be able to leave the long stubble I required.



*Double the number.
 

steveR

Member
Mixed Farmer
And the Malone sits stupidly low to the ground in transport position - you can hit/bang the belt cover off the ground going I've a rough bit if you don't lift the mower on the arms. Even lifted, it's still low... which means you've to reset the height every field you go into. The Krone you set the arms then never touch them again.

Haven't used the topping skids on either, we have an old topper for the job

We used to run trailed WM250 Class drum mowers 😍 had 2 for a short while, but the Krone disc and now Malone are more productive machines IMO
Agree, I found the setting up of the Malone for transport/work a PITA too.

But the nice job and good performance levels are great. Sitting at 14-1500 RPM it is a relaxing job!
 
Some machines just do not suit some people and if they get off on the wrong footing, so to speak, the 'relationship' will possibly never work. It can turn to an irrational hatred of a particular machine or tool or whatever else. That’s just the way things are.
I'm glad I'm not the only one :giggle: . The mower was bought to last at least 10 years by which time I'll have packed in. It's been a big disappointment, I don't look forward to cutting grass anymore. If I could turn the clock back I'd have my Vicon 168 drum mower back. It wasn't any slower when you take into account the down time on the Krone:ROFLMAO:

Delighted with the performance compared to the old Drum mowers. I specced multiple skids* on the advice of the Malone tech guy here in the UK, as I wanted it for mowing herbal leys leaving long stubbles, and also to try for topping of pasture. Again, delighted with both jobs over the Summer.
Was thinking of selling the Krone plus the topper and replacing both with a Malone with the skids so there wouldn't be much money to find.
 

steveR

Member
Mixed Farmer
Was thinking of selling the Krone plus the topper and replacing both with a Malone with the skids so there wouldn't be much money to find.

Swapping out the skids takes a while, but if you have a battery impact driver, it cuts the time in half ;)

I tend to leave mine on all the time now, and shorten the top link for smaller mowing areas, and only drop them off for larger areas early on. I decided I preferred leaving a long stubble years ago with the old drum mowers on old PP, and always had the saucers shimmed to the max. anyway. The malone fits this viewpoint.

I was told by Malone that in Ireland many famers use the disc mower for topping... I like the grass clippings being spread out and while not as good as the flail, it is many times quicker, and uses less fuel.
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Disc mowers tend to ‘like’ a fairly constant load and some disc mower beds certainly did not last as long when used in conditions that presented a variable no-load situation causing backlash in the gear train. I’m not sure whether that still holds true or, in fact, whether it was only ever a rural myth.
 

steveR

Member
Mixed Farmer
Disc mowers tend to ‘like’ a fairly constant load and some disc mower beds certainly did not last as long when used in conditions that presented a variable no-load situation causing backlash in the gear train. I’m not sure whether that still holds true or, in fact, whether it was only ever a rural myth.
Cannot believe high revs through a mower when topping would be positive... (y) I run at a fast tickover ;)
 

puppet

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
sw scotland
I'm on drum mowers, due to multiple igneous issues.
Cutting 120-150 acres a year. (some easier ground is farmed out to contractors)

Whatever badges are on PZ now....they're junk due to vastly lowered spec, as far as I can see. Ne'er saw the end of a 2nd season with the latter ones- which is a great shame, as they used to go on and on.

Tried a generic eastern European PZ rip off....less than a season before it broke in half.

We spent a LOT on a Fella drum, but a lad really walloped it on a rock.
And despite spending a LOT on repair, it's been chucked in the hedge in despair. Don't think it ever cut a whole season.

We went to Samaz maybe 7-8 years ago, and are number 3 now.
We still break them, but have found Weaving very straight, helpful, and sensible with spares.
We have had a Zetor 185 drum which looks like a KM copy. Now 16 years old cutting around 70 acres a year and never had a major issue. We have lots of rocks and find it best not to hit them though still do. It has survived everything so far.
Most done with a Vicon 280 disc now which has needed 2 bearings and belts in 6 years.
 

tr250

Member
Location
Northants
Thanks for the suggestions. They told me it's 540 but to run it about 580. It doesn't have a conditioner. I'll check about slip clutch adjustment but it's never been mentioned at any of the times it's been replaced. Yes, replacing blades needs more practise, I'm just fed up with the thing :rolleyes:
I’d check it is 540 our Krone mower came with a 540 sticker on it but after some investigation it’s actually 1000. It’s trailed so might be different but it’s a hell of a mower
 

Nithsdale

Member
Livestock Farmer
Agree, I found the setting up of the Malone for transport/work a PITA too.

But the nice job and good performance levels are great. Sitting at 14-1500 RPM it is a relaxing job!

Yep!

You've got to get off your arse and actually get out of the tractor to switch between work and transport.. it's so primitive and positively medieval compared to the Krone were you just drop it and go to start cutting, and I I have to pull a rope to put it back into transport position!!




But the Malone (maybe just it being new - it's only on its 3rd season this year) makes a hell of a tidy job...
 
Thanks for the suggestions. They told me it's 540 but to run it about 580. It doesn't have a conditioner. I'll check about slip clutch adjustment but it's never been mentioned at any of the times it's been replaced. Yes, replacing blades needs more practise, I'm just fed up with the thing :rolleyes:
Are you sure it’s 540 ? Can you confirm model no. What colour is gearbox that pto shaft drives into ? This denotes the rpm required . If it’s meant to be 1000 and your using at 540 it will do as your describing leaving a poor cut and tearing up slip clutches due to torque at the lower rpm
 

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