Narrow 4.4mm flat on steering joint fitment to steering ram Case 5150...how to undo?
- Thread starter Frogpit
- Start date
davidroberts30
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
Grind a old spanner down then slap it with a lump hammer to slacken
- Location
- Ardrossan Ayrshire
Also worth heating with a hot air gun to loosen the studlock.
Thankyou, yes grinding a spanner, but 4.4mm is very thin and weak...
Some heat is a good idea too.
Case don't seem to think about the repair. I wondered about making a special tool with larger flats outside the rod diameter...bit of a welded lump that might hang together better to slide across the flats...what a bind, thankyou J I Case.
Some heat is a good idea too.
Case don't seem to think about the repair. I wondered about making a special tool with larger flats outside the rod diameter...bit of a welded lump that might hang together better to slide across the flats...what a bind, thankyou J I Case.
davidroberts30
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
Wrap the chrome with a old leather belt and stiltsons......
Use a spanner on the other end of the ram..
Use a spanner on the other end of the ram..
- Location
- northumberland
Left hand thread 
New steering ram joints on case 5130 last year and they were left hand thread
New steering ram joints on case 5130 last year and they were left hand thread
How did you hold the end of the chromed rod, with such narrow nut flats, please?Left hand thread
New steering ram joints on case 5130 last year and they were left hand thread
sc4545
Member
- Location
- kinnegad ireland
hold both tie rods and open up. if the one you want stays tight undo the other side enough to get a spanner in. I've never failed to open one that way. both tie rods are right-hand thread screwed into the ram
- Location
- Nottingham
We did ours last year both sides. Had to clamp the whole ram in a vice to get 1 side off.
Sparex do the track rod ends if you haven't bought already.
Sparex do the track rod ends if you haven't bought already.
Thanks, yes, I can imagine. I am checking when I get the new parts, that I know what the thread direction is!! I shall heat the end of the ram and freeze the ball joint surround, in a bid to release it. Holding the opposite end of the rod by the existing ball joint, to unscrew in turn.
Sparex are out of stock, until June, of the LHtrack rod, would you believe.
Sparex are out of stock, until June, of the LHtrack rod, would you believe.
- Location
- Nottingham
We managed to get 1 side off using the method of holding 1 side and turning other, but then had to slide the whole ram out (easy enough).
Thankyou.
Blimey, that was necessary to hold the ram in a vice? Did the seals need changing or did it all behave?
- Location
- Nottingham
Absolutely yes, they were the original ball joints. 1 side cracked off (with a lot of force from a pair of big stiltsons), but absolutely no hope of gripping the ram and/or "nut" to undo the other side.
Remember any damage at all to the surface of the ram and it will leak, so be very careful trying to grip it with anything. It will just slide out without damaging the seals or anything, ours did. Worth noting after we put the new ball joints in they slowly unscrewed themselves over time, so ended up having to put few drops of lock tight on.
Also I would recommend checking the thrust bearing on bottom of axle/hub if you have the wheel off. ours had loads of play in it so had to change it (try just taking the king pin shims out first if there are some) and that was a pig of a job.. for another day haha
Check carpentergoodwin.co.uk, can't remember if we bought ours from there but I have the link saved for some reason so possibly!
Remember any damage at all to the surface of the ram and it will leak, so be very careful trying to grip it with anything. It will just slide out without damaging the seals or anything, ours did. Worth noting after we put the new ball joints in they slowly unscrewed themselves over time, so ended up having to put few drops of lock tight on.
Also I would recommend checking the thrust bearing on bottom of axle/hub if you have the wheel off. ours had loads of play in it so had to change it (try just taking the king pin shims out first if there are some) and that was a pig of a job.. for another day haha
Check carpentergoodwin.co.uk, can't remember if we bought ours from there but I have the link saved for some reason so possibly!
Great info, thankyou.
I wonder if there is enough 'meat' to make the existing flats on the ends of the ram a bit wider by careful grinding/filing to a finish. An open-ended 32mm spanner is over 8mm thick and would take some heave if everything was warmed up?
I bet the threads were locktited from new, then.
The hub swivel thrust bearings are ball-thrust ones? with spacer shims to take up the gaps?
I have always greased religiously...but I shall check now you have mentioned it.
Need to do all the front axle seals soon as well. I found an American Ytube that is useful for that.
I wonder if there is enough 'meat' to make the existing flats on the ends of the ram a bit wider by careful grinding/filing to a finish. An open-ended 32mm spanner is over 8mm thick and would take some heave if everything was warmed up?
I bet the threads were locktited from new, then.
The hub swivel thrust bearings are ball-thrust ones? with spacer shims to take up the gaps?
I have always greased religiously...but I shall check now you have mentioned it.
Need to do all the front axle seals soon as well. I found an American Ytube that is useful for that.
davidroberts30
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
dont worry about the flats,the ball joints have been on there 30 year...