new holland 276 baler problem

aleary5a

Member
my old new holland baler is breaking the hay tines on the feeder bar, it is the tines at the left of the machine viewed from front, they are held by a spring, it broke them soon after i got the baler, replaced the tines and cranked baler over by hand several times all looked fine tried some grass through it and it broke the tine, cant see what it can be hitting, has anyone seen this happen before
 

db9go

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Buckinghamshire
my old new holland baler is breaking the hay tines on the feeder bar, it is the tines at the left of the machine viewed from front, they are held by a spring, it broke them soon after i got the baler, replaced the tines and cranked baler over by hand several times all looked fine tried some grass through it and it broke the tine, cant see what it can be hitting, has anyone seen this happen before
Are we talking the packer tine like two pig tail tine with the packer bearings on
 
Has it got a lot of play in the assembly? Side to side and up and down? If so you can adjust it. On our 376 The race for the bearings can be squeezed up on some adjusting bolts and the side to side can be adjusted by slackening a grub screw on each of the roller bearings on the race and prizing the rollers out on the shaft to take up end play out. Once it all tight it can be timed. Have you got a manual for it? If not get one from eBay best thing i ever did
 

forblue

Member
If its the very end one it should have a pull type spring on the top to keep tines upright if that spring breaks very often the tines will punch holes through the end tinwork and as been stated wear on rollers and guides will allow the packer to jump about, tines will then foul the tinwork on the feeder very evident by wear on the alloy tines on the packer bar ,.
 

aleary5a

Member
yes it it this tine, the small spring did break and started punching holes in the tinwork on me, the tines snapped off then and one took a chunk out of the chamber knife!, there is wear on the alloy tines so it has been jumping about for a while, cant see where i can adjust any bearings, the steel packer tine has bearings on each end of the steel shaft that the tine is located on, no way of adjusting the bearings, do i have to put a packer behind the runners that the bearings run in to take out the slack, i have an operators manual but it doesnt go into too much detail
 

forblue

Member
Putting shims behind the runners may work but you must remember everything will be worn the drive chain will also be worn this allows the arm to sag putting more strain on the packer this is not cheap and the bracket that is attached to chain that's the where the arm is attached to will also be worn under that there should be a wooden block that itself is adjustable to support the arm as it reaches the bottom of its stroke, have you managed to replace the pig tail tine if not beware of taking that square tube apart as it's got along and strong spring in it,where are you as i have a knotter assembly and packer with a broken tine cheap but i am in Essex.
 

db9go

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Buckinghamshire
Have you got number 10 as this is to stop the tines going over when the spring goes missing
Number 9 is the shaft that goes through the box section and number 7 with the bearing each end
That is held in by an allen screw with a lock nut that screw locates the shaft in the centre as there is grove in the shaft
There is no adjustment on the shaft or rails if you have it to tight it will break the chain
How tight have you got the chain
That baler is getting on for 50 years ol


835420
 
yes it it this tine, the small spring did break and started punching holes in the tinwork on me, the tines snapped off then and one took a chunk out of the chamber knife!, there is wear on the alloy tines so it has been jumping about for a while, cant see where i can adjust any bearings, the steel packer tine has bearings on each end of the steel shaft that the tine is located on, no way of adjusting the bearings, do i have to put a packer behind the runners that the bearings run in to take out the slack, i have an operators manual but it doesnt go into too much detail
Is the packer drive chain tight?as in proper tight
 

aleary5a

Member
number 10 part is on it and the tines managed to ride over it and punched holes, chain was a bit slack but have tightened it have read that it has to be very tight maybe i havent tightened it enough, i have another baler for spare think its a 274 took that apart for the pigtail but it has broken that one too. the baler i have for spares had no wear on the aluminium packers or the wooden blocks, am i asking for trouble putting packers behind the runners? the baler doesnt do a lot every year this is just hobby for me playing about with it
 

db9go

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Buckinghamshire
If you tighten the chain do not over do it as it wears one way more than the other one half will be more worn than the.
If the tines jump over number 10 then were all ready stretch
Inside number 6 there is a tube number 18 with a spring 21 on it is it sloppy DO NOT DISMANTLE UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING
 
number 10 part is on it and the tines managed to ride over it and punched holes, chain was a bit slack but have tightened it have read that it has to be very tight maybe i havent tightened it enough, i have another baler for spare think its a 274 took that apart for the pigtail but it has broken that one too. the baler i have for spares had no wear on the aluminium packers or the wooden blocks, am i asking for trouble putting packers behind the runners? the baler doesnt do a lot every year this is just hobby for me playing about with it
Take the runners out and examine them,mine had bad worn parts making the packet arm catch and jump
 

aleary5a

Member
heres some pictures
 

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aleary5a

Member
took a video but too big to upload, loads of play side to side and up down in runner, where the packer attaches to the chain has bit of play too
 

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