New Holland Combine - 24v start

Steevo

Member
Location
Gloucestershire
The battery reading 8 volts is shot as 2 cells have gone. This has hopefuully just dragged the other down, but I rather suspect you will need to replace both

I suspect you are correct. Went down to look at the "good" battery this evening which I'd left on charge and found it looked damp on the top around the terminals. Then noticed some dripping on the floor. I couldn't hear bubbling but it looks like it might have had it. The battery was 13.0v when I took it off charge - I will see what it is tomorrow.

I don't have much luck with batteries on big yellow machines. Am I the only one?
 

D14

Member
Seems all NH combines are plagued with the battery drain "virus"......my old combine was a 12v start (2 x 12v in parallel). I used to either charge batteries together on the machine, or use the 12v jump starter.

The new one is a 24v start apparently, meaning neither of the above methods are possible. Do others just separate the batteries and charge individually?

I should really get round to fixing up a permanent trickle charger so it can be on charge whenever it's put to bed. I've never known any machine drain batteries quite so fast - I've left tractors in the barn for 6 months before with no charger on and they've started just fine.

Our old 880SL did this. Iirc the problem was a cable that ran from the two batteries as a single cable. I can’t remember much more than that but I know it never happened again once it had been replaced.
 

Zetor

Member
Location
Northumberland
2 x 12v 5watt solar panels on the side of the building if it’s feasible, wire and plug.
You’ll get your money back was the constant change will make the battery’s last twice as long (at least) no mains just fit and forget.
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
Its strange, both the John Tractors, I ran both were twin batteries and one would always be down.
they were twin 12 volts, for the European markets , the American versions were 24 volt. A lot of the issues on those tractors were related to the wiring being insufficient to carry 12 volt loads as opposed to 24 which uses half the amperage.
 

del_boy

Member
Location
Herefordshire
Its strange, both the John Tractors, I ran both were twin batteries and one would always be down.
they were twin 12 volts, for the European markets , the American versions were 24 volt. A lot of the issues on those tractors were related to the wiring being insufficient to carry 12 volt loads as opposed to 24 which uses half the amperage.
We have a 19 plate cr 9.80 running down batteries, we've just replaced one in the winter but was dead again the other day, the mechanic has now replaced the isolator switch as these give trouble so time will tell. Bloody annoying when you want to give it a run up and its got a flat battery. Our old cr was the same if left for a couple of months
 

Lincsman

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
As previously stated check the isolator, after charging batteries last year i was on the point of thinking they were due for change, but after having a TX66 where the isolator failed, I dismantled this one (they come apart), just a slight but of oxidising on it, cleaned it but wasnt confident it was the issue.
Anyway 1 year later its still fine with original batteries.

PS it did allow cab lights to come on and ignition lights, it just wouldnt allow enough power to start it.
 

Steevo

Member
Location
Gloucestershire
We have a 19 plate cr 9.80 running down batteries, we've just replaced one in the winter but was dead again the other day, the mechanic has now replaced the isolator switch as these give trouble so time will tell. Bloody annoying when you want to give it a run up and its got a flat battery. Our old cr was the same if left for a couple of months

Dealer told me that the computers are always connected and thus drain a trickle of power but personally I think they are wrong in that.
 

Steevo

Member
Location
Gloucestershire
Will see how the batteries go. Might set an auto electrician on it to see if he can help at all.

Isolator should be fine as the cab light and all other electrical are remaining off when the isolator is off.
 
Last edited:

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
Dealer told me that the computers are always connected and thus drain a trickle of power but personally I think they are wrong in that.
Dealer is right, they must have a permanent live so they do not lose memory. They will have a small rechargeable internal battery As well but that has quite a short life
 
I start my combine every 6 weeks to keep every thing right cr on 24 volt starting and add blue rest is 12 volt

with a previous case we did have problems when a fuse in the charging system went
also had problems with the next case due to the main power leads

with the current cr the battery cover if not fitted properly and left outside lets rainwater into the battery compartment this is directly under the ad blue filler so if you have spilt a bit of adblue the water in the battery compartment mixed with urea in the adblue eats the copper in the wireing in the battery compartment there is a main loom junction with fuses

so be careful with adblue spillages and contact with electrical junctions

I would usually charge each battery seperatly leaving battery disconnected from the cr has not been a -Robles but in a a few years time the processors battery backup may be weaker
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
These back up batteries are a pain in the a****. They are often only 2032 s but are soldered in place, which means that replacement is not 5 minutes as if they were clipped in. i suspect a lot of electronic problems come from this battery failure, meaning while it is illegal, in fact it is built in obsolescence
 

Donkey Oaty

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
Interesting thread for me. I bought a 2005 NH combine at a farm sale in November. It has 2 12 volt in parallel. It suffers from battery drain. It also had FAME diesel in its tank which clogged it up completely. I'm £500 in the hole already from getting that cleaned out and new filters. I'm still weighing up whether the batteries need replaced.
 

Kildare

Member
Location
Kildare, Ireland
2003 CX here and it was always draining battery s.
Changed to a new isolate switch and still the same.
If one battery is knackered you really need to replace both.
I disconnect batteries now when not in use.
 
Any Controllers on combine has battery feed even with no ignition. I should not drain battery but if there is some corrosion or damage to controllers then they may take more then should. More possible when get older.
Plus one fact - any acid battery loose charge even not use. It couse by internal resistance and is dependent of temperature.
Also batteries loose capacity with lower temperature.
So if you not keep changing from time to time don't be surprised if combine has problem to start.
Corrosion is on top of this.
 

Steevo

Member
Location
Gloucestershire
2003 CX here and it was always draining battery s.
Changed to a new isolate switch and still the same.
If one battery is knackered you really need to replace both.
I disconnect batteries now when not in use.

Interesting to hear!

Posters above mentioned about it requiring batteries connected to maintain memory - have you found this an issue when disconnecting the battery?
 

Steevo

Member
Location
Gloucestershire
Any Controllers on combine has battery feed even with no ignition. I should not drain battery but if there is some corrosion or damage to controllers then they may take more then should. More possible when get older.
Plus one fact - any acid battery loose charge even not use. It couse by internal resistance and is dependent of temperature.
Also batteries loose capacity with lower temperature.
So if you not keep changing from time to time don't be surprised if combine has problem to start.
Corrosion is on top of this.

What is "Combine Rescue" please?
 
If a battery is left discharged for any length of time it is hard to get it back to full capacity
just jump starting a flat battery and leaving the machine to run for a while does not do the battery any favours
the best hope for a discharged battery is to put it on a mains charger and fully charge it leaving it a day or so on charge ones it is gassing this can reduce the damage a full discharge does
the battery on a car that is started every day and used every day lasts longer than one started less regularly
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
If a battery is left discharged for any length of time it is hard to get it back to full capacity
just jump starting a flat battery and leaving the machine to run for a while does not do the battery any favours
the best hope for a discharged battery is to put it on a mains charger and fully charge it leaving it a day or so on charge ones it is gassing this can reduce the damage a full discharge does
the battery on a car that is started every day and used every day lasts longer than one started less regularly
A big battery will take several days to get back to full charge on a normal charger. even a heavy duty charger chucking out 20 amps can take a couple for a combine battery. As the battery level increases charge rate will drop.
keep an eye on the water level too!
 

SFI - What % were you taking out of production?

  • 0 %

    Votes: 77 43.5%
  • Up to 25%

    Votes: 62 35.0%
  • 25-50%

    Votes: 28 15.8%
  • 50-75%

    Votes: 3 1.7%
  • 75-100%

    Votes: 3 1.7%
  • 100% I’ve had enough of farming!

    Votes: 4 2.3%

Red Tractor drops launch of green farming scheme amid anger from farmers

  • 1,286
  • 1
As reported in Independent


quote: “Red Tractor has confirmed it is dropping plans to launch its green farming assurance standard in April“

read the TFF thread here: https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/gfc-was-to-go-ahead-now-not-going-ahead.405234/
Top