New project b275

Discussion in 'Classic Machinery' started by ap7610, Nov 28, 2018.

  1. ap7610

    ap7610 Member

    5F9AA116-3C07-4846-B7AE-DA521EB25356.jpeg Bought this few days ago, something a bit different for me as I like blue tractors but I’ve lately thought that smaller fords ie 2000, 3000, 4000 etc have just got way over priced. One thing I’ve learnt when refurbishing a tractor is you need to buy it as cheap as you can as by the time you’re finished it’ll cost more than anybody will give you for it.
  2. timff

    timff Member

    Nice. Don't know anything about them though. If the front grill is anything to go by it looks looked after, but unless it's going to stand outside or you are likely to do rainy work I'd have the cab off
  3. ap7610

    ap7610 Member

    Thanks, got the original tax book and even the operators manual with it which doesn’t happen too often.
    The cab is actually stamped for a 275,276,414,I originally thought when I saw it that someone had took it off a mf135 and fitted it, now I think it may have came with it so might leave it be, we’ll see.
  4. timff

    timff Member

    Yep my thought was a 135 cab too but not quite the same roof as a rigid sirocco and deffo not a duple. Is there a makers plate in it anywhere?
  5. X344chap

    X344chap Member

    Central Scotland
    There must be a big bucket somewhere with all the headlight mounting brackets from the IH B series tractors. How do they always manage to lose them?. Its the same with drawbars.

    Btw i'd leave the cab on if its original - its also there for ROPS
  6. looks tidy, a later one with CAV fuel pump and vari touch hydraulics is it not ?

    lights were not standard, so that's why they don't have them on them all

    I would keep the cab on it,
  7. ap7610

    ap7610 Member

    Yea, later one with the rotary pump, the light brackets and drawbar are coming with the tractor, no lights but, just plough lamp. Hope to collect today or tomorrow so will upload few more pictures including the plate on the cab, seemed to be leaking engine oil at either the bottom pulley or sump gasket so that’ll be 1st job on the list, was running battery down too, still has the old dynamo fitted so I’d say that could be the problem, would like to retain a dynamo as to fitting an alternator, we’ll see.
  8. SMID

    SMID Member

    Sorn Ayrshire
    Its a Seckura cab possibly fitted when the safety frame regs came into force the whole thing looks very savable ,Its good to something a bit different, keep us posted.
  9. dynamo will only want new brushed I would think,

    not sure, but think ROPS came in 1970, the B275 had ceased production by then, and think new B275 where fitted with CabCraft from factory
  10. Dim Reaper

    Dim Reaper Member

    North Yorkshire
    ROPS came in for new tractors in 1970, but older tractors had until 1975 or 76 ( can’t quite remember ) to be retrofitted with some sort of safety frame or cab.
    I would leave the cab on if it was mine. Part of its history and I think too many cabs are removed from older tractors.
    jf850 likes this.
  11. I very much agree, it is part of the history, yet so many seems to take them off, such a shame
    jf850 likes this.
  12. Yea as said Sekura cab
    Mursal likes this.
  13. timff

    timff Member

    ROPS came into force for older tractors in summer 76 from memory as I recall putting a folding Sirocco bar on the Dexta in the heatwave..the same time Q cabs were compulsory on new. Rollbar taken off the Dexta many years ago now though!
  14. Ray

    Ray Member

    Yes late 70's we fitted many Lambourne and similar saftey cabs to MF and Ford tractors... All those nice straight and now sought after original fenders that back then were no longer needed all ended up in the scrap bin.... If we'd only known eh...:banghead:
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2018
    fredf likes this.
  15. ap7610

    ap7610 Member

    Well, definitely a sekura cab as suggested, shows good oil pressure hot or cold, pulls well and isn’t too bad to start at all, needs about 15 secs of heat 1st thing but will start rest of day no problem without heat.
    Needs a center pin, crank seal and the lift would be a bit juddery but otherwise apart from cosmetics she’s not bad. 3FE75DE0-E6C0-4CFC-8221-B1AE45844DE9.jpeg C129A1CA-F5C1-4570-88AB-008FB257C8DF.jpeg 28422E84-1D05-4012-A4C9-56AE65861A2F.jpeg
  16. have a look in the oil filler cap, (its like a water pipe bung on top at back of Hyd unit, poke something in to like dip the oil when its hot, see if it clear good oil, or milky watery oil, if milky, then change it when it is hot and warm,
    on the front RHS of hyd unit you will see the oil feed pipe come out to feed the pump, it has a slight crank in it to get it closer to the side of gearbox, then there is a rubber sleeve with 2 jubilee clips on, slacken clips, slide rubber forward,
    now you need to twist the pipe as it were at the housing end, you will see the pipe is welded to big collar, you need to twist or turn it so the pipe come away from gearbox, then waggle turn etc to the collar comes out, once out there is a steel washable strainer filter attached to the collar, wash strainer in petrol while oil runs out, check O ring is good or fit new O ring, put back together in reverse and fill with new oil, a standard SUTO oil will do
  17. ap7610

    ap7610 Member

    Thanks for the information, think I know where your speaking off, I will check the oil and the strainer tomorrow. Seems to have plenty of power on the lift just not that smooth.
    Pennine Ploughing likes this.
  18. Hilly

    Hilly Member

    Scottish Borders.
    Great little tractors them, they like some heat too start tho, heater plugs have to be good, that little pepper thing on dash needs to glow !
  19. X344chap

    X344chap Member

    Central Scotland
    Or change the older heater plugs for the new pencil style. Remembering to change the wiring from serial to parallel and remove the pepper pot ballast resister.

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