Nuffield 10/60 bubbles in radiator problem!!

[ted1060]

Thank you for your replies , tht is a great relief hearing this. Yeah one of the old liners was dull sounding when tapped with a small hammer. Other 3 rang like a bell . Brilliant news made my night , thought I needed a new block lol . Will let you know how it goes when all put back together.

 

[Ley253]

I agree with this.. The block is merely supporting the liner and holding in the correct place. The seal is between the liner top and the cylinder head for compression / combustion, and sealed with the rubber sealing ring below for the coolant / oil contamination . That crack will look far worse than it actually is... I put my money on a defective / cracked liner as already mentioned. If head gasket been checked and head tested, it really can't be anything else IMO.

BMC were most insistent that cracks in the top deck were of no importance, those in the bottom, through the main housings were however! Those were a warranty claim, the top ones were not. Yes, they cracked before they were a year old, so still in warranty!

 

[ted1060]

No substitute for experience and knowledge much appreciated guys

 

[ted1060]

Just a quick one , i am putting the new liners in tomorrow and in the book I have it says use a suitable lubricant on the liner seals. (Which are new too ) iv heard jointing cerment. Any suggestions ?

 

[Ley253]

I have always used petroleum jelly.I dont know how much you have done, but clean liner registers until they are spotless then install liner without the lower seals set up liner protrusion. remove liners one at a time, and refit with seals in place. You may find the liners do not contact the register properly, if this is the case they can be ground in. There is full information on the the Nuffield and leyland message board, including a "how to" video.
Edit,
That should be, " the Leyland Nuffield BMC message board. And do check the seals are correct, there seem to be at least two options! Clamp the liners down, its annoying if one pops up while your fitting the pistons!

 

[ted1060]

ugh !! I have put the engine all back together and this has solved the compression in the radiator (4 new liners and seals). Which I was very happy about. The tractor ran soundly for about a week. Iv had it on the yard scrapper. I walked into the shed today and got her out and moved some things in the yard, to which I noticed a small amount of oil coming out of the manifold and creamy oil exiting the engine breather pipe. When I put it back in the shed I dipped the oil to notice it had turned slightly creamy but not risen on stick. Am gutted !!! suppose it could be poor seal on head gasket , liner seal not in correctly or piston o rings !!! So annoyed. What are peoples thoughts ??

 

[Mursal]

Condensation in the sump, give it a bit of hard work, don't stress ..................

 

[ted1060]

Really is tht all ? Do I have to replace oil or is tht ok.

 

[Ray]

It could be just the residue of contamination from before you carried out your repair. If your oil level aint rising and water level correct I'd get it warmed up then give it another oil / filter change and see how you go. It could well be nothing to worry about. It can take quite a while to get all the contamination removed completely after water ingress, you may need to change oil again even.

 

[Mursal]

Yes, as above ..............

 

[ted1060]

May be not as bad as first thought then. Why do I have (black)oil coming out of manifold. What could be causing this ?

 

[Ray]

I take it it's the exhaust manifold... This indicates oil getting by the piston rings as they will still be bedding in. Best thing to do is give the tractor some work and do not leave it idling about. It's important to moderately work the engine after rebuilds to allow this bedding in period to take place, otherwise the cylinder bores will glaze up and you will get oil consumption along with oil blathering from the manifold as you describe.

 

[agrimax]

As Ray has said and did you replace the valve stem oil seals? Could be these or worn valve guides If the seals and guides are now good,a bit of hard work should burn the oil off.That's assuming you also replaced the pistons and rings..........?

 

[REStracTORATION]

Get it hot working then before dropping oil add an engine flush to the oil leave running as per instructions,
Then drop your oil then you can monitor oil water levels for oil contamination.

When coming down a hill on engine overun if bluey smoke appears that's a sign it's valve sepage,

Hard work hard work hard work
These old engines don't like fannying around in a yard after a rebuild.
Get a trailer on loaded and find a big hill and let her pull her guts outs 2 or 3 times on the riad it will do it wonders,

Then report back,,,, you can get and additive that swells seals this may be worth a try sometimes it's works some times it dosnt

 

[ted1060]

Thank you all for the advise. Got to plough 4 acres so will get the old two furrow out on her get it working. Will let you know. Many thanks

 

[Tha Ulsterscot]

A couple of hours on a rotovator would do more good.

 

[Ley253]

It needs several hours at not less than 80% full load( thats from a liner manufacturer), and even then, if it returns to light work, the bores can glaze up again. I am of the opinion that this problem is becoming wide spread, and must be something to do with modern liner material.

 

[Ray]

It needs several hours at not less than 80% full load( thats from a liner manufacturer), and even then, if it returns to light work, the bores can glaze up again. I am of the opinion that this problem is becoming wide spread, and must be something to do with modern liner material.

I think it may also be due to modern day oils and lubricants. To bed in properly a certain amount of controlled wear must take place, so the rings can perfectly fit and grip the cylinder walls. Modern day oils are so good that this doesn't seem to be so easy to achieve in some cases. You can buy running in oil that has additives to help controlled wear take place and mating surfaces bed in..

 

[Ley253]

I think it may also be due to modern day oils and lubricants. To bed in properly a certain amount of controlled wear must take place, so the rings can perfectly fit and grip the cylinder walls. Modern day oils are so good that this doesn't seem to be so easy to achieve in some cases. .

Thats right. I remember now, a friend had a grey and gold which poured oil from the exhaust, he bought some running in oil, and that has cured it. Sorry, but I cant remember who supplied the oil.

 

[Ray]

Here's some, although there are other oil suppliers offering similar.