Nuffield 10/60 bubbles in radiator problem!!

ted1060

Member
Hi all , I have a Nuffield 10/60 which blows bubbles in the radiator even when turned over by hand on the crank , firstly I thought it was the head gasket which got replaced new and this didn't cure the problem. Secondly I tried working out which cylinder it was doing it on and I thought it was no.1 so I thought may be it was an injector selve so replaced no1 selve, this also didn't cure the problem. So my next step was to get the head pressure tested, which results came back as a good head! In the mean time I left water in the block so I could see if it had any rust lines appear in liners ,( which none did) So finally I have taken the liners out of the block and cleaned them up and can't see any cracks or problems. Has anyone got any ideas ? Or do I just try 4 new liners ?
 

ted1060

Member
hi , thanks for the reply . Unfortunately I didn't pressure test the cooling system when liners were in. I was expecting to see a crack or hole in a liner due to the amount of bubbles being produced. But there was no water in oil. So the air must pass through without letting water in! Puzzles me. Do you think the problem would generally be liners because don't want to waste money putting new liners in and putting back together and still have problem. It's annoying not finding the fault. Do you have any other ideas

Many thanks
 
hi , thanks for the reply . Unfortunately I didn't pressure test the cooling system when liners were in. I was expecting to see a crack or hole in a liner due to the amount of bubbles being produced. But there was no water in oil. So the air must pass through without letting water in! Puzzles me. Do you think the problem would generally be liners because don't want to waste money putting new liners in and putting back together and still have problem. It's annoying not finding the fault. Do you have any other ideas

Many thanks
Test the water with a head gasket tester that tells you the contamination content if exhaust gas etc is entering the system which then hopefully points you in the right direction

Liners definitely are are a possibility but don't just guess it needs them
Also are your hoses tiptop or water pump seal a pressure test would show these I would think
 

ted1060

Member
Had another look at the liners this arvo, still can't see any wrong with them, but I had the idea to tap them with a small hammer. 3 of them ring like a bell and the 4th sounds dull and dead ! Is there any way to test the liner ?
 

High Major

New Member
Location
N.E. Scotland
You could use some weld testing penetrant and developer or just use the penetrant and sprinkle on talcum powder. For the latter option make sure it is clean with no solvents remaining before applying.

HM
 

Mursal

Member
If you apply a layer of diesel to the inner surface of the liners, it may seep through the crack if not visible.
Or as above with liquid penetrant if you can get your hands on some.

Otherwise the cheapest option will be to put everything back (maybe a new set of O rings) as it was.
And if still leaking test until you find the exact cause. Cylinder leakage test might pin point the cylinder causing the problem.
Can you see any marks on the head gaskets where it might not be sealing a cylinder allowing it to pressurize the coolant?
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
The dull sounding liner is cracked, look for a radial crack about half an inch from the top. To help you find it, wash the liner in diesel and dry. Then dust with talc or french chalk, this will draw moisture from the crack, and show as a line.On refitting the liners clean the liner seatings well and fit the liners without the seals, measure the liner protrusion .002"/005" as far as I can remember, measured from the flange to block, NOT the fire ring! When that is correct ( shims are available, if required) fit seals and liners, clamp liners in place until your ready to fit the head.
Cracked liners are a common fault with the 100mm liner.
 

ACEngineering

Member
Location
Oxon
Hi all , I have a Nuffield 10/60 which blows bubbles in the radiator even when turned over by hand on the crank , firstly I thought it was the head gasket which got replaced new and this didn't cure the problem. Secondly I tried working out which cylinder it was doing it on and I thought it was no.1 so I thought may be it was an injector selve so replaced no1 selve, this also didn't cure the problem. So my next step was to get the head pressure tested, which results came back as a good head! In the mean time I left water in the block so I could see if it had any rust lines appear in liners ,( which none did) So finally I have taken the liners out of the block and cleaned them up and can't see any cracks or problems. Has anyone got any ideas ? Or do I just try 4 new liners ?

Whats the reg number if you dont mind me asking? Think mine was LLB 410? Or something along them lines, have to dig out an old photo.

Noticed mine doing same just after i finished restoring it! Didnt have the heart to pull it all apart and knacker my nice paint job:cry:

Just kept using it on road runs and shows and a couple ploughing matches it never developed in to anything more than a few bubbles if you looked in rad and ran sweet:love:
 

ted1060

Member
Hi all, sorry in delay in reply been busy on another project. Got back to the Nuffield today and while cleaning up the block to put the new liners in today I noticed a crack ontop of the block between one and two holes for the liners ! As show in picture . Will this cause the compression in the radiator by not getting a good seal on the head gasket as it warms up and cools down. Plz give me your opinions ! Many thanks in advance .
IMG_1386.JPG
 

Mursal

Member
If you throw a straight edge over the crack resting on the stud holes, can you put a feeler gauge in between the block and straight edge, I wonder? And if so, how big ..............
The back of a hacksaw blade will do, grand

 
Last edited:

ted1060

Member
Thank you for the video, I will check tht tomorrow. What would have caused the crack. I know it's the weakest point, but I was guttered to discover it. I was measuring the liners today because they all have to sit roughly the same above the block ( between 2-5 thousandth) so have got some shims on two liners to make them the same.
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
This crack can be ignored, it was subject to a BMC tech bulletin, stating this.The block face has nothing to do with the sealing of combustion pressure, the gasket seals on the liners, not the block. This is the reason for their protrusion.
 

Ray

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
N.Yorkshire
This crack can be ignored, it was subject to a BMC tech bulletin, stating this.The block face has nothing to do with the sealing of combustion pressure, the gasket seals on the liners, not the block. This is the reason for their protrusion.
I agree with this.. The block is merely supporting the liner and holding in the correct place. The seal is between the liner top and the cylinder head for compression / combustion, and sealed with the rubber sealing ring below for the coolant / oil contamination . That crack will look far worse than it actually is... I put my money on a defective / cracked liner as already mentioned. If head gasket been checked and head tested, it really can't be anything else IMO.
 

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