Oil filter Newholland tm120

[David the spud man]

Hi Ive got a quick question as im due for a filter change a light came up on the dash to change hydraulic and transmission filter so I ordered a full set of filters I had changed the paper filter earlier in the year due to a pto issue and need to chage the hydraulic filters i dont need to change the paper one though as already done so my question is with the spin on filter do i need to empty the back axle oil out or can i just unscrew them and when putting the new ones on do i need to fill them with oil
Thanks David

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Just unscrew them, some oil will come out of filter so you wil need a bucket for a few litres, if they're pointing upwards fill them but the TM one is on it's side lengthways so can't really fill it.

Is it RC or Dual command? You might aswell change both. Maybe a good idea to use a clean bucket to remove the large one, inspect the oil and then cut it open, if you have fillings in it no point changing filters, it will need brake discs

 

[David the spud man]

Just unscrew them, some oil will come out of filter so you wil need a bucket for a few litres, if they're pointing upwards fill them but the TM one is on it's side lengthways so can't really fill it.

Is it RC or Dual command? You might aswell change both. Maybe a good idea to use a clean bucket to remove the large one, inspect the oil and then cut it open, if you have fillings in it no point changing filters, it will need brake discs

Its a standard gear stick model it has only 2700 hours so probably doesnt have any problem with the brake discs but i might as well cut open filtyer any way what do you use to cut filter open

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Its a standard gear stick model it has only 2700 hours so probably doesnt have any problem with the brake discs but i might as well cut open filtyer any way what do you use to cut filter open

.not 100% sure of the filter setup on the DC ones, a hacksaw will cut a canister filter open for you.

Is your PTO brake working as it should? The band can dump a lot of interesting bits in the filters, especially if it chews up the whole band and fixings!!!

 

[Kevtherev]

Did the dual command not have a ccls pump?

 

[tinman]

you can unscrew the filters on the side of the transmission and replace them without draining all the oil but as you say, do fill them as close to the top as possible before putting on the new ones or the pump ill be suckin air for too long and you run the risk of scuppering a pump.
cleanliness is good practice here.
that id be on the older tm's anyway, there isnt too many of the "newer ones" about here

what pto issue was there, filings through the system or such was it.
whats the brakes like, would be close to or on the steel by any chance.
maybe you havnt changed the filters on her in yonks but if there was a filter light flashing at me id be asking why it was blocked.

 

[David the spud man]

Did the dual command not have a ccls pump?

dont have a clue

 

[David the spud man]

you can unscrew the filters on the side of the transmission and replace them without draining all the oil but as you say, do fill them as close to the top as possible before putting on the new ones or the pump ill be suckin air for too long and you run the risk of scuppering a pump.
cleanliness is good practice here.

what pto issue was there, filings through the system or such was it.
whats the brakes like, would be close to or on the steel by any chance.
maybe you havnt changed the filters on her in yonks but if there was a filter light flashing at me id be asking why it was blocked.

the pto issue was the linning had after falling of the discs in the clutch pack. filters havent been changed in yonks father didnt like doing it and the brakes seem fine as when theres a load behind its well able to stop quickly

 

[Mur Huwcun]

The brakes will still stop the same when they're through to the metal, they will groan abd you will have no steering or hydraulics but they'll stop!! First tell tale of failing brakes is filters clogging up unfortunately.

 

[David the spud man]

I was mixing up the 7840 with the tm1230 the tm has only one hydraulic filter and its paper

 

[tinman]

The brakes will still stop the same when they're through to the metal, they will groan abd you will have no steering or hydraulics but they'll stop!! First tell tale of failing brakes is filters clogging up unfortunately.

what i was fearing when i asked about the brakes.

the pto issue was the linning had after falling of the discs in the clutch pack. filters havent been changed in yonks father didnt like doing it and the brakes seem fine as when theres a load behind its well able to stop quickly

there is four filters on the back end in total.
id never just change one filter on any tractor when it id be in for a service, its not something id like to do personally.
it sounds like she hasnt got much lovin so far anyways but not your fault either.
if i was you and you are handy enough, id drop everything out of her, and i mean everything, hub oil, axle oil, engine oil, coolant and hyd/trans oil out of her, id replace all the filters on her with a quality brand of filter.

I say a quality brand of filter there because my faith in OEM cnh filters took a knock a few years ago and ive not had any in their filter range since.
ill not bore you but suffice as to say 3 tractors i serviced had their hyd pumps fail not long after the fitting of said filters, i wasnt at fault for the damage but the filters were, i fought my corner and got them to cover the cost of replacing the pumps.
it should of never happened.
altho i should of known there was going to be trouble the day i put them on and seen "Made in China" wrote on them.

i use Fleetguard filters here as non oem but buyer beware, times they can be dearer then oem ones, but there be a reason for that...
i also use what id personally consider to be about the best of the best in oils and thats Mobil oil, ive found no better.

im not telling you how to run your show Dave, its just a suggestion.
it ill cost a few quid to do it right but it will, in time be money well spent, or dont do it either and keep the likes of me going....
in saying all that, the opinions above are only my own but you can trust me on one thing, always wear sunscream..

 

[David the spud man]

so I did a filter change o

what i was fearing when i asked about the brakes.


there is four filters on the back end in total.
id never just change one filter on any tractor when it id be in for a service, its not something id like to do personally.
it sounds like she hasnt got much lovin so far anyways but not your fault either.
if i was you and you are handy enough, id drop everything out of her, and i mean everything, hub oil, axle oil, engine oil, coolant and hyd/trans oil out of her, id replace all the filters on her with a quality brand of filter.

I say a quality brand of filter there because my faith in OEM cnh filters took a knock a few years ago and ive not had any in their filter range since.
ill not bore you but suffice as to say 3 tractors i serviced had their hyd pumps fail not long after the fitting of said filters, i wasnt at fault for the damage but the filters were, i fought my corner and got them to cover the cost of replacing the pumps.
it should of never happened.
altho i should of known there was going to be trouble the day i put them on and seen "Made in China" wrote on them.

i use Fleetguard filters here as non oem but buyer beware, times they can be dearer then oem ones, but there be a reason for that...
i also use what id personally consider to be about the best of the best in oils and thats Mobil oil, ive found no better.

im not telling you how to run your show Dave, its just a suggestion.
it ill cost a few quid to do it right but it will, in time be money well spent, or dont do it either and keep the likes of me going....
in saying all that, the opinions above are only my own but you can trust me on one thing, always wear sunscream..

I did a filter change on the back end and the only filter i could find was the one that I changed before the paper one when the pto was done the same oil that was in the tractor was used again so when i took of the filter it was pretty dirty inside so I must order one in the morning

 

[David the spud man]

@tinman my other question is how the hub oil is changed i know theres the plug on the hub dont know what toolo to use to remove and how is it fille and with what type oil.
by axle oil do you mean back axle oil
coolant im assuming from rad and how do you change it
and fuel filter when changing is it fust unscrew of remove cable from the bottom fill with diesel and screw back on

 

[tinman]

there should be 4 filters there, possibly 3 depending on transmission i cant remember exactly.
hyd spin on cnh pt # 81863799
a hyd one cnh pt# 84248043
another hyd one cnh pt# 84226258
and another spin on cnh pt# 82005016

i change the oil on my own tractors approx every 1000 hrs in the back end & hydraulic oil.
the engine gets done every 250-300 hours.
and id change the hub and axle oil about every 1k hours as well.

the front hubs have either a hex head ( like the head of a bolt) or a square head recessed in the bung, if its the latter a 1/2" breaker bar will open it, it will be tight so a smack of a copper head hammer first usually gets it round to my way of thinking.
jack up the front of her and remove the bung when its above level, turn the wheel round to the bung is at the bottom and drain it off, it will smell burnt and normally is black of itself which is normal enough.
turn the bung hole round to either 3 or 9 o clock and refill it, either of them two positions is your fill level.
do not overfill anything as it will cause other problems at a later date.

the axle oil im on about is on the front axle, if you look in the middle of it on the underside there should be a bung to drain it and there will be a filler bung either on the front or back face of the axle to refill it.
the level of the bung is the level of the oil as long as she is sitting level.
the rear hubs on the tm are serviced from the back end oil so when you change that it ill take care of them.

as for oil,
the chart i have here says its UTTO (universal tractor transmission oil) 80w for the hyd and trans, 80 odd ltrs of it.
personally im not a fan of utto oil as i dont believe in one oil for all, i prefer a more specific oil or one that exceeds the specs recommended.
the engine oil should be 15W/40 oil, 20 odd ltrs.
the axle and hubs states utto 80w again but personally unless there is a reason to use a lighter oil id normally use a EP 80w-90 oil in them, there will be 13 odd ltrs of oil in the complete front axle alone.

as for coolant, there is many ways to drain it but for you id say just pull off the lowest hose on the system and let it out.
there should be about 25ltrs of coolant in the engine.
buy neat coolant and mix it 50/50 with distilled water, ordinary water will just increase corrosion internally.
i dont like pre mixed stuff personally as i like to mix my own ratio and try to buy coolant with corrosion inhibitor built in if you can get it.
your about right on the diesel filter altho there will be more than one on her, 2 or 3 at the least id guess, one of which is a separator and usually is hiding under the cab floor on the rhs, a stumpy looking lad.

keeping cleanliness in mind fill any filter you can as close to full as possible, iirc the tm's were a pita to prime if you put on a dry diesel filter.

dont take any of that as gospel but i wouldn't say im far out.
failing that get someone to do the work either in their place or at yours, there is bound to be someone good locally.

 

[Oily rag]

dont have a clue

Pretty sure it's a classic so no ccls

 

[Oily rag]

what i was fearing when i asked about the brakes.


there is four filters on the back end in total.
id never just change one filter on any tractor when it id be in for a service, its not something id like to do personally.
it sounds like she hasnt got much lovin so far anyways but not your fault either.
if i was you and you are handy enough, id drop everything out of her, and i mean everything, hub oil, axle oil, engine oil, coolant and hyd/trans oil out of her, id replace all the filters on her with a quality brand of filter.

I say a quality brand of filter there because my faith in OEM cnh filters took a knock a few years ago and ive not had any in their filter range since.
ill not bore you but suffice as to say 3 tractors i serviced had their hyd pumps fail not long after the fitting of said filters, i wasnt at fault for the damage but the filters were, i fought my corner and got them to cover the cost of replacing the pumps.
it should of never happened.
altho i should of known there was going to be trouble the day i put them on and seen "Made in China" wrote on them.

i use Fleetguard filters here as non oem but buyer beware, times they can be dearer then oem ones, but there be a reason for that...
i also use what id personally consider to be about the best of the best in oils and thats Mobil oil, ive found no better.

im not telling you how to run your show Dave, its just a suggestion.
it ill cost a few quid to do it right but it will, in time be money well spent, or dont do it either and keep the likes of me going....
in saying all that, the opinions above are only my own but you can trust me on one thing, always wear sunscream..

Where are the 4 back end filters?

 

[Oily rag]

A lot of misleading information on here being handed out. Do NOT put gear oil in the front axle or hubs. It should be ambra multi-g, the same as the rear axle although I use q8 t2200 in these transmissions and axles and have never had a problem.

 

[tinman]

Where are the 4 back end filters?

A lot of misleading information on here being handed out. Do NOT put gear oil in the front axle or hubs. It should be ambra multi-g, the same as the rear axle although I use q8 t2200 in these transmissions and axles and have never had a problem.

perhaps its me thats handing out the bad info your referring to.
if you go to the NH info portal they list the 4 filter part numbers i referred to above.
as i said, the 4th could be depending on transmission.

as for using ambra mulit g in the final drive i also said if the book says to use a specific oil then thats what should be done.
times id refer to gulf oils recommendation charts (altho i dont use their oil) for quantities of oil needed and grade of oil, when i checked they recommended 80w oil for the front hubs iirc.

its good your here now tho so you can set the record straight....

 

[Bobthebuilder]

simplest thing to do would be to get an operators manual (if you haven't got 1) and read it, it will tell you where all the filters are, how and when to change them and what grade of oil to use and how much

 

[fermerboy]

My TM is a range command with CCLS pump. It has two filters on the back end. The big one is the same as a dual power 40series. The engine oil filter is the same as a 40series too.
As for oil I only ever put in multi G which is the New Holland brand transmission oil. It covers all back ends and front axles and hubs. It also does for all oils including hydraulic oil in the NH digger. Nice and simple, 2 drums one transmission and one engine.