Old Moore Drill calibration

[Joe]

If you need I have a manual for it I could post the pages you need, If you get any bother.

Sounds good more information the better tbh

 

[del_boy]

Will do definitely, just need get few new pipes and see adjustments on discs & coulters. Hope to get at sowing end of next week have 7 acres for rape, 10 grass and 10 turnip sprayed off to do.

Are you planning on drilling grass in one pass or two directions?
What condition wear wise are your coulters in? We had to buy 2 new ones which now make the ones on the machine look even worse, wondering how bad they can get before they need changing.

 

[Joe]

Are you planning on drilling grass in one pass or two directions?
What condition wear wise are your coulters in? We had to buy 2 new ones which now make the ones on the machine look even worse, wondering how bad they can get before they need changing.

Was considering diamond two passes I think at half rate each pass. Drill I picked up has brand new discs and coulters on it, well look new to me and don’t seem to have ever been used.

 

[Farmersboy]

If the long boxes to catch the seed for calibrating are missing, a length of plastic gutter does the job. Remove the driven sprocket on the seed box and replace with your home made crank handle for turning to calibrate

 

[del_boy]

If the long boxes to catch the seed for calibrating are missing, a length of plastic gutter does the job. Remove the driven sprocket on the seed box and replace with your home made crank handle for turning to calibrate

Cheers for that.
Have the hopper off it at the moment to make it easier to work on.
Its a bit different to the drill in the op, it has the wheels on the back, not sure if the seeding unit is the same

 

[multi power]

I'd suggest you ring moores and you will get all the information you need and I bet he will send you a book too, Sam Moore knows the drills inside out

 

[Joe]

If you need I have a manual for it I could post the pages you need, If you get any bother.

Was doing but in the drill today and getting few small parts from Moore’s, seriously helpful. Found out drill is a mark 3 September 1979, can’t believe condition for age!

One question couldn’t answer today was between seed coming
Out of seed box into seed cup should there be an open gap? Picture attached to compare to yours if don’t mind

 

[sticky]

Mine is a 1977 and these are the comparison photos for you.

 

[sticky]

I found the manual today but I guess if you've spoken to the man himself your set up now.

 

[Joe]

View attachment 804854 View attachment 804852 Mine is a 1977 and these are the comparison photos for you.

Yours def look closer together, must check the box is down fully tomorrow. thanks for that

 

[JumboUk]

mines got a fair gap, much bigger than those photos. its great to make sure seed is flowing as can see easily from cab

 

[Joe]

Right ready to rock today put some rape in. Trying get depth front and back discs running even, anyone one how far wind down to get 1cm 1/2 on the coulters seen little deep at this but best I could get.

 

[del_boy]

Right ready to rock today put some rape in. Trying get depth front and back discs running even, anyone one how far wind down to get 1cm 1/2 on the coulters seen little deep at this but best I could get.

Im struggling to get the same depth on front and rear discs after fitting new ones. The back go a fair bit deeper. So today ive moved the rear disc assemblies forward a hole to try and help. It if its not enough I'll try moving the front ones back a hole.
Its too wet to try it now after some serious rain so far today.
Keep us updated

 

[towbar]

If you have the choice don't move the front back move the rear forward if you can? The further you are from the press wheel the better chance you have.

 

[towbar]

there is another option but more work - is your press wheel mounted in the shaft going back or is it below the shaft one possibility is you could change the mounting of the press wheel to push it further down to match the larger discs - but would be a bit of work.

 

[del_boy]

there is another option but more work - is your press wheel mounted in the shaft going back or is it below the shaft one possibility is you could change the mounting of the press wheel to push it further down to match the larger discs - but would be a bit of work.

I'll have a look at that as having the press wheels lower would pitch the drill forward which is what i need to do. Having some ram stops on the rear wheels is another option but no really ideal

 

[sticky]

Another thing that will alter the pitch is your tractor drawbar, how high is it? When these were made they were towed by a lot smaller machine. I have towed mine behind a 995 case which was about right but behind my jd 6600 I have to have the pressure setting a fair bit different.

 

[towbar]

The way to set drawbar is on flat concrete the drawbar adjuster should allow you to go from rear press wheels lifting of the ground to flat to front discs lifting off the ground. In @del_boy case I think hes not able to adjust enough to get all 3 wheels flat because the new discs are 18".

 

[del_boy]

Thats a good point. I have it on a nh tsa135 on 580 rears.
I might try it on our little 7610 for a comparison but dont fancy drilling with it all day!

 

[towbar]

If you cant get the 3 wheels close to touching ground at the same time it wont make any difference