Hi We are looking at changing from our old batch drying system to an Opico mobile dryer and we have found one local that reasonably priced. I don’t know much about gas dryers because our old one is diesel, and the thought of gas has always put me off because you can’t just go to the red diesel tank and get some fuel for the dryer. I know really you should have a fixed gas tank and run your dryer on that but I don’t really want to have to have a tank full of gas and like this year not have to use the dryer, so I was wondering if anyone has and experience of running them one 48kg bottles and how long they would on one, like would you get a 2 hours drying cycle on a bottle? Also I have read you have to change a screen to dry rape, where abouts is the screen and is it a big job etc. Thank you in advance any advice welcome.
Opico dryer thoughts
- Thread starter Tom22890
- Start date
fermerboy
Member
- Location
- Banffshire
Using a gas drier on bottles is the work of the devil. Been there and never again!!
You will need a manifold to connect 2 or preferably 4 bottles. The flow rate is too much for one bottle and it will freeze.
Then they all ways run out when you've nipped round for your tea and you come back to a cold drier.
We have a 2ton gas tank, holds about 1850litre gas as they only fill to 85%, works perfect, just phone up and order more when it gets low, no different from a diesel tank. Cant remember but the rental is £60 odd a yr. The savings on gas price over bottles must about cover the rental, never mind the hassle saving.
Can't tell you about running cost as I've never had a diesel drier.
You will need a manifold to connect 2 or preferably 4 bottles. The flow rate is too much for one bottle and it will freeze.
Then they all ways run out when you've nipped round for your tea and you come back to a cold drier.
We have a 2ton gas tank, holds about 1850litre gas as they only fill to 85%, works perfect, just phone up and order more when it gets low, no different from a diesel tank. Cant remember but the rental is £60 odd a yr. The savings on gas price over bottles must about cover the rental, never mind the hassle saving.
Can't tell you about running cost as I've never had a diesel drier.
Yes I can see what you mean, I’m don’t know if you would know but do they use much gas? Also they say you have to change a screen to dry rape, do you know what that involves?
glasshouse
Member
- Location
- lothians
if it doesnt have rape screens., its no use, you can swap them
stick with batch
- Location
- S. Staffs
Used to run two Opicos, one on tractor and one with electric motor, both on gas. Never had a problem as regards the gas, had tanks on 'free' loan from gas co but bought our own through our supplier, who is an independent, not one of the big boys i.e.Calor or Flogas who are always top dollar ime. The dryer design is good and drying is much more even due to constant movement through the hot air than in a batch dryer, which relies on mixing the grain afterwards to achieve an 'average' m/c. Also cleans at the same time if you change the screens, which are part of the inside column, get inside with a 13mm spanner and slide them in and out, 5 minute job. I have cleaned up some horrible samples of corn when out with it on farms on contract, its amazing what you can do with one!
they need good maintenance, regular greasing especially the bottom bearing, on older machines there was no remote grease nipple for that and it was neglected because it was in the dust and trash, lots of weed seed etc falls through the mesh in the bottom of the drum.
If you need any more info just ask or pm.
they need good maintenance, regular greasing especially the bottom bearing, on older machines there was no remote grease nipple for that and it was neglected because it was in the dust and trash, lots of weed seed etc falls through the mesh in the bottom of the drum.
If you need any more info just ask or pm.
If you want to stick with diesel see if you can find a magna (opico) or a master or mechmar all very good driers and diesel
We went from a continuous flow alvan blanch to a opico 12t gas about ten yrs ago then a 20t diesel magna 4yrs ago
The gas drier wasn't a problem itself it was a very good machine but they changed how you could order gas if I remember rightly which didn't help at all so we changed to diesel
We went from a continuous flow alvan blanch to a opico 12t gas about ten yrs ago then a 20t diesel magna 4yrs ago
The gas drier wasn't a problem itself it was a very good machine but they changed how you could order gas if I remember rightly which didn't help at all so we changed to diesel
oldoaktree
Member
- Location
- County Durham
I don’t think that any that are in the UK won’t be able to handle OSR ! I wouldn’t worry too much on that score. The screens are the outer part of the dryer and the cone in the middle.
As others have said is easy enough to order gas at harvest time they work much longer
Hours delivering so usually it was next day delivery. You don’t have to get it filled right up.
Bottom bearing needs greasing and expect to change it every two or 3 years depending on how much it’s used . If you haven’t changed it for a few years it’s worth doing at the start of the season before it’s cover in dust etc . It’s quite possibly one of the worst jobs going !
Make sure the holes in the burner ring are clear it’s not so much of a problem now but in years past they used to block up . Grind a fine point on a welding rod is a good tool to clean them out with.
Also there’s a curved brass pipe behind the control panel which if blocked the burner won’t fire up ! 11mm spanner whip it off blow it out and jobs away . It’s about a foot long .
Used to dry 1500-2000 tons a year with a 12 ton one and I do believe I dislike every load dusty horrible job .
Don’t fill it full of wet stuff ready for in the morning it can settle and cause the belt on the main auger to slip .
956 was a good tractor for the dryer used 1000 pto and the hand pto cultch enabled you to engage power slowly.
If you buy any mobile dryer make a hopper that fits over the intake auger so you can fill with loader .
As others have said is easy enough to order gas at harvest time they work much longer
Hours delivering so usually it was next day delivery. You don’t have to get it filled right up.
Bottom bearing needs greasing and expect to change it every two or 3 years depending on how much it’s used . If you haven’t changed it for a few years it’s worth doing at the start of the season before it’s cover in dust etc . It’s quite possibly one of the worst jobs going !
Make sure the holes in the burner ring are clear it’s not so much of a problem now but in years past they used to block up . Grind a fine point on a welding rod is a good tool to clean them out with.
Also there’s a curved brass pipe behind the control panel which if blocked the burner won’t fire up ! 11mm spanner whip it off blow it out and jobs away . It’s about a foot long .
Used to dry 1500-2000 tons a year with a 12 ton one and I do believe I dislike every load dusty horrible job .
Don’t fill it full of wet stuff ready for in the morning it can settle and cause the belt on the main auger to slip .
956 was a good tractor for the dryer used 1000 pto and the hand pto cultch enabled you to engage power slowly.
If you buy any mobile dryer make a hopper that fits over the intake auger so you can fill with loader .
Last edited:
- Location
- Durham, UK
I'm on my second one now. 1st one was bought as
a stop gap, had that for 14 years. Blooming good dryer. Check all belts and bearings also the two little cogs that are joined with a small chain as the cogs wear (this is on the agitator drive shaft).
Best to look for auger wear from the top rather than the bottom as the lower flights are thicker.
Screens are a 2 min job to change. Climb in and undo a 13mm bolt and slide them out. (I take the pto off the tractor for safety,)
I replaced it with a refurbed on this year. It's been spot on
a stop gap, had that for 14 years. Blooming good dryer. Check all belts and bearings also the two little cogs that are joined with a small chain as the cogs wear (this is on the agitator drive shaft).
Best to look for auger wear from the top rather than the bottom as the lower flights are thicker.
Screens are a 2 min job to change. Climb in and undo a 13mm bolt and slide them out. (I take the pto off the tractor for safety,)
I replaced it with a refurbed on this year. It's been spot on
- Location
- S. Staffs
As @oldoaktree says the bottom bearing is their weak link, we lined the bottom box with a sheet of 1/4” plate to take the downforce from the auger, and replaced the ordinary bearing with an angular contact one for the same reason, fitted a remote grease nipple, and we never had to touch it again, jus a shot of grease every day and it was fine.
i got a 9t second hand one 3 years ago, running on gas, the first year was a nightmare in that the gas tank we got from calor was dirty on the inside so it keeped destroying the seals in the gas solenoids, thank goodness for the dealer warranty as the fitter had to do a round trip of 180 miles. The second year when i was preseason checking her i noticed one of the solenoids was faulty and they were looking £180 for the kit to fix her, went to a local firm and was able to get 3 new solenoids for £150 (same spec as what was on her just a different brand) and she has run fault free from then.
when the fitter was setting her up for us i had asked him about the bottom bearing as i had read that it give problems, he said that what goes wrong is that the auger is meant to be hung from the Top bearing and the bottom bearing isn't meant to carry any weight and if it does it goes bad.
we drive our with a old super major so she drives it at the correct speed as a fast idle (as she has a 750 pto) i hope to get her to run on the 3 phase this year and maybe add a few extra fans to help with the cleaning and removal of the dirty and dust
when the fitter was setting her up for us i had asked him about the bottom bearing as i had read that it give problems, he said that what goes wrong is that the auger is meant to be hung from the Top bearing and the bottom bearing isn't meant to carry any weight and if it does it goes bad.
we drive our with a old super major so she drives it at the correct speed as a fast idle (as she has a 750 pto) i hope to get her to run on the 3 phase this year and maybe add a few extra fans to help with the cleaning and removal of the dirty and dust
- Location
- West Wales
The last place I worked we had a pistol grip grease gun which was only used on the Opico, you didn’t have the same pressure as a level type grease gun so you couldn’t blow the seals on the bearing, I did over 2500 hours with it as the second drier and never replaced a bearing on the bottom of the auger.
Try and get as modern as one as you can, a lot of the older ones havnt got the best electrics and I’m not sure about modern ones but the one I had was all American so annoying for parts sometimes.
Don’t go bottles, go tank or diesel. It’s worth every 200 hours going inside the burner and pushing a filed down welding rod into the gas burner outlets like mentioned above. If done regurarly enough you can see where they are and they clean easier. Once you have start up problems from them being coked up you’ll be looking at a drill in there to open them back up but don’t.
I had 4-5 screens for different crops, OSR rarely needs cleaning so put the blank in. If it is really bad with chaff don’t dry it at once because of risk of fire. Dry in 2-3% drops at a time and buy a OSR screen meanwhile.
- Location
- Darlington
I have run masters since 1985. I obviously like them.
Neighbour's had a bigger one than our 12 not sure on exact size but it just looked like the same but taller
Campbell
Member
- Location
- Herefordshire
As above, but with bigger fan, burner and plenum. Also most were designed as full auto functions.