Paint

[Extreme Optimist]

Have some bunker feeders that are going a bit rusty and I want to repaint them with something long lasting and safe. My normal paint supplier is unhappy selling me anything, as he says none of his paints would be suitable for livestock.
Was planning a primer and top coat unless someone can recommend a single coat paint that would do the job?
Be grateful for any recommendations.
Thanks

 

[Forever Fendt]

Have some bunker feeders that are going a bit rusty and I want to repaint them with something long lasting and safe. My normal paint supplier is unhappy selling me anything, as he says none of his paints would be suitable for livestock.
Was planning a primer and top coat unless someone can recommend a single coat paint that would do the job?
Be grateful for any recommendations.
Thanks

View attachment 588776

I would say clean them with a wire cup brush on a 5"grinder (wear goggles ) red oxide primer and a gloss top coat or bitumen but read label first for suitability for use with stock

 

[MD @Minshall Buildings]

Its all about the preparation, whatever paint you use. Good advise from Forever Fendt on using a cup wire brush to prepare and you need to get very loose bits of paint off and polish any rust off before painting. I would use a good quality zinc phosphate primer and then a water based gloss top coat (suspect bitumen would be too soft and may wear off fast?). Whatever product you choose, check with the manufacturer that it is suitable for use with livestock!
Next time, buy a galvanized feeder.......there is nothing better when using with livestock!

 

[Extreme Optimist]

Its all about the preparation, whatever paint you use. Good advise from Forever Fendt on using a cup wire brush to prepare and you need to get very loose bits of paint off and polish any rust off before painting. I would use a good quality zinc phosphate primer and then a water based gloss top coat (suspect bitumen would be too soft and may wear off fast?). Whatever product you choose, check with the manufacturer that it is suitable for use with livestock!
Next time, buy a galvanized feeder.......there is nothing better when using with livestock!

I hate to think how much it would have cost to galvanise 7 x 20'feed bunkers! <OUCH!!!>
One of the problems was the specialist paint suppliers were unwilling to put their names to anything that would be safe for livestock. In the end, we have got something similar to what you suggested.

 

[Forever Fendt]

I hate to think how much it would have cost to galvanise 7 x 20'feed bunkers! <OUCH!!!>
One of the problems was the specialist paint suppliers were unwilling to put their names to anything that would be safe for livestock. In the end, we have got something similar to what you suggested.

Galv is not fool proof with silage and even meal in feed troughs painted thick steel will more than likely outlast the mass produced very thin sheet

 

[Mursal]

As above, clean it well with kerosene, so its ready to take the paint.
Yes primer and then top coat.
We buy oxide 20L at around £50 ..................

I cant see a problem with the animals?

100mm roller works well
Oh and a good radio

 

[Deutzdx3]

2k polyurethane paint. Can be mixed with an additive to allow it to be brushed or rolled.

£18 per litre ish. In any ral colour.

Red oxide it first.

Polyurethane is completely safe. Dries to make essentially plastic coating.

 

[Mursal]

Would that work out a tad expensive?
But then again if it seals the rust ..............

 

[Deutzdx3]

Would that work out a tad expensive?
But then again if it seals the rust ..............

Shouldn't be, it goes a long way. Might be cheaper of international paints. It'll last 20 yrs if done right.

 

[roscoe erf]

Its all about the preparation, whatever paint you use. Good advise from Forever Fendt on using a cup wire brush to prepare and you need to get very loose bits of paint off and polish any rust off before painting. I would use a good quality zinc phosphate primer and then a water based gloss top coat (suspect bitumen would be too soft and may wear off fast?). Whatever product you choose, check with the manufacturer that it is suitable for use with livestock!
Next time, buy a galvanized feeder.......there is nothing better when using with livestock!

good advice except they lick the galvanising off over time got several here that now need painting

 

[A1an]

Personally id rub it back then red oxide first coat and red oxide second coat.

Now there is red oxide and there is red oxide, don't scrimp, some brands aren't worth a toss.

I use Jotun applied with a Sealey air sprayer. I use the sprayer for everything from doing buckets to gates and applying Butinox to picnic benches and garden furniture.

 

[spanners and hammers]

i would use a acid ecth primer first ,,,, try ultramax coatings they very good ,,,they have a stand a lamma

 

[Extreme Optimist]

Got a primer and water based gloss from Tor Coatings so hopefully they will do a good job. I have 7 to do, so not going to be a quick task!!!

 

[Deutzdx3]

We blast every thing first. Gives the best base to work from. Then we apply in order, 150-200 microns of high zinc redoxide. Then apply 250 microns of epoxy 2k primer then top coat 170 microns of 2k polyurethane. We paint things like gates, industrial doors, bridge sections, and the biggest is wind turbine tower sections. [emoji106]

 

[RushesToo]

We blast every thing first. Gives the best base to work from. Then we apply in order, 150-200 microns of high zinc redoxide. Then apply 250 microns of epoxy 2k primer then top coat 170 microns of 2k polyurethane. We paint things like gates, industrial doors, bridge sections, and the biggest is wind turbine tower sections. [emoji106]

You can bodge, or you can do the job properly,

 

[Kidds]

We blast every thing first. Gives the best base to work from. Then we apply in order, 150-200 microns of high zinc redoxide. Then apply 250 microns of epoxy 2k primer then top coat 170 microns of 2k polyurethane. We paint things like gates, industrial doors, bridge sections, and the biggest is wind turbine tower sections. [emoji106]

You do actually sound like you know what you are doing.
Can I ask why you use your high zinc redoxide rather than an etch primer?
Could I also ask what the redoxide part actually does. ie. I know what the high zinc part of it does but why the redoxide part?

Red oxide used to be lead based but obviously lead isn't allowed any longer so the only possible purpose of the red bit is to see where you have been. Someone above made the point of there being red oxide and then there's red oxide. To the best of my knowledge red oxide used to be good but now it's hardly any better than emulsion paint.

I am not trying to be a smartarse, it is a genuine question.

 

[Deutzdx3]

You do actually sound like you know what you are doing.
Can I ask why you use your high zinc redoxide rather than an etch primer?
Could I also ask what the redoxide part actually does. ie. I know what the high zinc part of it does but why the redoxide part?

Red oxide used to be lead based but obviously lead isn't allowed any longer so the only possible purpose of the red bit is to see where you have been. Someone above made the point of there being red oxide and then there's red oxide. To the best of my knowledge red oxide used to be good but now it's hardly any better than emulsion paint.

I am not trying to be a smartarse, it is a genuine question.

We use high zinc phosphate red oxide as etch primer. It's more about the zinc content than colour.
Original red oxide does have anti corrosion properties in it, not sure about the cheap one but I know better brands still do the job pretty well. We go go zinc content over any thing else but the red gives a good solid uniform base to work from. If we are leaving some thing out side to bring back in to finish later we put standard red oxide on it. As you say, it did used to have lead in it. Shame it doesn't any longer as it made all paint much more vibrant and adhere to metals a lot better.

When painting, be carful to not mix the different resins. Paints are split into resin category's, some work with others. Others react.

Oil base.
Acrylic
Synthetic
Polyurethane
Epoxy
Solvent
Water

Make sure you stick to one if possible.

As I said above we use

High zinc (solvent base)
Epoxy primer (epoxy base resin)
2k Polyurethane topcoat (2 pack polyurethane)

In this order they don't react. You can use 2k acrylic topcoat but it's more of a finish coat that we use for solid car colours. And it's more expensive than polyurethane.

Your cheapest way would be.

Grind back. Red oxide or zinc to prohibit corrosion. Epoxy or poly primer. You can leave this out if cost is king. It'll last with out it. 2k polyurethane paint. Will last for years

Prep is the key to longevity. Then good quality paint.

Pm me if you want to talk through some more. [emoji106]

 

[Pond digger]

@Deutzdx3
How essential is it to get back to shiney metal? Paint sticks better to rust so if you remove all loose stuff, and provided its dry, is it ok to paint on top? And how good are those rust stabilising primers?

 

[Kidds]

Thanks for that @Deutzdx3

As for bare metal, I find a twisted wire cup on a grinder (use gloves, eye and ear protection!!!) to get off what you can and then wipe with one of the rust converter products.
This isn't going to cure layers of flaking rust but will work on almost shiny but pitted decent steel.

 

[Deutzdx3]

Thanks for that @Deutzdx3

As for bare metal, I find a twisted wire cup on a grinder (use gloves, eye and ear protection!!!) to get off what you can and then wipe with one of the rust converter products.
This isn't going to cure layers of flaking rust but will work on almost shiny but pitted decent steel.

If we get into pitted rust on things we blast them. As for rust converters I'm not overly sure. A lot of people use them so they must work. I think they neutralise it and seal it.

A wire wheel work well, as long as you put a decent etch/zinc primer over all the cleaned metal then all will be well and you won't have adhesion problems later on.