Perkins injector pump

twosheds

New Member
Hi everyone, I should begin by introducing myself-not to mention a bit of honesty. I'm not engaged in the agricultural business but I am the proud owner of a Series 1 Land Rover which is fitted with a Perkins 4.203 engine. As this engine has a number of different applications I'm casting around for some advice on getting it up and running so I've left a post on the Series 1 forum and you knowledgable people are my next port of call.
So I'm starting to get to grips a little with this new project. I wanted initially to get the engine started, to allow me to move it around a little and I don't think it's ran for up to 20 years . I have suceeded in this to my surprise as I'm not that familiar with diesels, but I removed the injectors, dismantled and cleaned them, I don't have a pressure tester so I counted the number of turns on the adjuster screw and put them all back exactly the same way. Bleeding was carried out as per the Perkins manual but I mistook a bolt on top of the injection pump for a bleed screw, and loosened it a little, realising my mistake I've nipped it back up but it now seeps fuel when it's running. I'm reluctant to do it up anymore in case I overtighten it, I'm not sure what the bolt does but it's on top of the housing for the stop lever and throttle. Does anyone know how to stop it leaking ? Does it have a washer underneath ? Sorry it's not strictly relevent to your forum but I'm hoping the farmer's expertise and experience with these engines can point me in the right direction. I will post on a boating forum as well as the engine also seems to lurk in people's yachts and barges. Many thanks if anyone can help.
I have attached a photo, leaky bolt arrowed.
DSC_1178 (Small).JPG

Michael
 

Dry Rot

Member
Livestock Farmer
I am having problems with the CAV fuel injection pump on a Massey Ferguson 135 tractor and have found some excellent videos on Youtube. There's a guy in the Australian Outback who seems almost addicted to making them! (Bundy Bear?). Highly recommended. I think he covers Land Rovers too. Anyway, try searching Youtube.

To provide a seal in joints as you mention, I can highly recommend liquid gasket, similar to https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-Blue-Silicone-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B005ZH294I

Yes, it is expensive but you only need the thinnest smear. I tried it on the fuel filter housings of my tractor which are notorious for leaking and not getting a seal. Success first time!

Have fun! Oh, and don't forget Facebook. There are some good groups on there and you'll usually get a near instant response.
 

twosheds

New Member
Thanks guys, that's very helpful. I will check out the ozzie man and have a go with the ptfe as well, I thought later that a leather washer might work as early fuel systems before modern rubber used leather seals.
Cheers
Michael
 

manhill

Member
I am having problems with the CAV fuel injection pump on a Massey Ferguson 135 tractor and have found some excellent videos on Youtube. There's a guy in the Australian Outback who seems almost addicted to making them! (Bundy Bear?). Highly recommended. I think he covers Land Rovers too. Anyway, try searching Youtube.

To provide a seal in joints as you mention, I can highly recommend liquid gasket, similar to https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-Blue-Silicone-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B005ZH294I

Yes, it is expensive but you only need the thinnest smear. I tried it on the fuel filter housings of my tractor which are notorious for leaking and not getting a seal. Success first time!

Have fun! Oh, and don't forget Facebook. There are some good groups on there and you'll usually get a near instant response.

Are you sure this is a cav pump? Looks different to me.
 

agrimax

Member
Location
Co Down
It's a CAV hydraulically governed pump as opposed to a mechanically governed type that's more common on the likes of a MF 135,165 or Ford 4000 etc.
The leaky bolt/fitting above should just have a copper washer below it to seal.
 

Dry Rot

Member
Livestock Farmer
It's a CAV hydraulically governed pump as opposed to a mechanically governed type that's more common on the likes of a MF 135,165 or Ford 4000 etc.
The leaky bolt/fitting above should just have a copper washer below it to seal.
I have no doubt that is correct. I just found that sealant useful so mentioned it.

But while I have Agrimax's attention, could I steal the thread? I have cleaned the filter in my MF 135 injection pump and think I have reassemble that part correctly. (I had take that bit of the pump apart to get the filter out). But when I use the manual lift pump leaver to bleed the system the fuel does not squirt out of the pump with force as usual. Am I right in thinking that's the lift pump not working correctly rather than any fault in me not putting the injection pump filter (and associated pistons and springs) back correctly? (I've ordered a new lift pump anyway as it was full of sand!).
 

manhill

Member
I have no doubt that is correct. I just found that sealant useful so mentioned it.

But while I have Agrimax's attention, could I steal the thread? I have cleaned the filter in my MF 135 injection pump and think I have reassemble that part correctly. (I had take that bit of the pump apart to get the filter out). But when I use the manual lift pump leaver to bleed the system the fuel does not squirt out of the pump with force as usual. Am I right in thinking that's the lift pump not working correctly rather than any fault in me not putting the injection pump filter (and associated pistons and springs) back correctly? (I've ordered a new lift pump anyway as it was full of sand!).
Easy to check, hold your finger over the lift pump outlet and prime it. if it drenches you then it's working. Then work your way into the pump. It should give a good squirt out of the bleed ports. Has to fill up the pump body with fuel of course. The next pressure increase is the transfer pump (driven by the engine cranking) feeding the high pressure hydraulic head. There are some good descriptions on the net but I can't remember the best ones. Look for Roosa, He's the guy that designed it. Now I've got to fix my own one that's been playing up. Reckon it's the lift pump as well.
 

Dry Rot

Member
Livestock Farmer
Easy to check, hold your finger over the lift pump outlet and prime it. if it drenches you then it's working. Then work your way into the pump. It should give a good squirt out of the bleed ports. Has to fill up the pump body with fuel of course. The next pressure increase is the transfer pump (driven by the engine cranking) feeding the high pressure hydraulic head. There are some good descriptions on the net but I can't remember the best ones. Look for Roosa, He's the guy that designed it. Now I've got to fix my own one that's been playing up. Reckon it's the lift pump as well.
The pump isn't horrendously expensive at £20 so having done everything else, one should be arriving today, but that ^^^^ is useful information.

This is all good stuff and I think valuable to have it all on TFF as people do use this forum as a source of knowledge. Nothing worse than no conclusion to a thread!
 

manhill

Member
Easy to check, hold your finger over the lift pump outlet and prime it. if it drenches you then it's working. Then work your way into the pump. It should give a good squirt out of the bleed ports. Has to fill up the pump body with fuel of course. The next pressure increase is the transfer pump (driven by the engine cranking) feeding the high pressure hydraulic head. There are some good descriptions on the net but I can't remember the best ones. Look for Roosa, He's the guy that designed it. Now I've got to fix my own one that's been playing up. Reckon it's the lift pump as well.
It was the fuel filter on mine.
 

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