Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
What would you do with a good thick set of genuine Kristeel very pitted mouldboards? Shine them up or find some better ones?
Pitted mouldboards
- Thread starter Petetheploughman
- Start date
rusty nuts
Member
Find somebody with 20 acres of sand land that wants ploughing.
Mydexta
Member
- Location
- Dundee/angus
Someone once told me to try and weld the deepest pits, then grind it back
Tonym
Member
- Location
- Shropshire
If you were to use a welder do you not think it would alter the composition of the kristeel and you would end up with something like some of the spurious boards that the soil sticks to ?
Better removing some of the original metal with a linisher or better still send them to a metal polisher in my opinion.
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
How much would a metal polisher charge?
Ray996
Member
- Location
- North Scotland
Heavy clay land would be better for a start,don't think sand would flow to good on deep pitted board
- Location
- N.Lincs
You'd need less acres of tight. flinty wold land. If you turn your lights off at night you can see the sparks peeling off the breasts.
Have seen a few Kristeel boards 'spotted and sanded back. They work surprisingly well. Kristeel has to be pitted fairly badly before it stops scouring. RWM and RND's need to be really bright to plough well or they tend to drag the work apart due to their length while YL's are a bit more forgiving.
Klingspor ACT discs are the best (ceramic) 80 or 120 grit. Use a flexible backing disc and not the semi-rigid one which comes with them. However there is no substitute for soil polish.
- Location
- Owaka, New Zealand
http://i.stuff.co.nz/southland-time...-ploughs-Fortrose-Beach-stalling-whitebaiters
Ummm don't get caught but this is cheap and cheerful!
It wasn't me, either!!
Can't really beat the scrub marks going the right way.. personally I hook into the worst with a flap disc and then go somewhere remote.. not like this guy!!
Ummm don't get caught but this is cheap and cheerful!
It wasn't me, either!!
Can't really beat the scrub marks going the right way.. personally I hook into the worst with a flap disc and then go somewhere remote..
not like this guy!!
- Location
- N.Lincs
I expect once you've brightened 'em up like that you have to oil 'em so the salt doesn't start to dull them again on the way homehttp://i.stuff.co.nz/southland-time...-ploughs-Fortrose-Beach-stalling-whitebaiters
Ummm don't get caught but this is cheap and cheerful!
It wasn't me, either!!
Can't really beat the scrub marks going the right way.. personally I hook into the worst with a flap disc and then go somewhere remote..
- Location
- Owaka, New Zealand
It's only 'young rust'I expect once you've brightened 'em up like that you have to oil 'em so the salt doesn't start to dull them again on the way home
(Not that I'd even contemplate such wanton 'destruction of natural ecosystems'...will wash away in a week...)
It happens every year somewhere, often riverbeds
but of course this fella had to do it in a tourist spot, in whitebait season, and then plough a paddock about 300 metres away (We used to farm about 6 km around the coast from there, on a reasonably recent dairy conversion, about as far south as the south island gets.)
rusty nuts
Member
Yes it would but if they are that bad you would need a D6 to pull it
Have had several sets of boards polished TCNs Duncan's UCNs and they all look great to start with but have found with most of them they don't scour like a board dose with natural work, too highly polished and the soil sticks, any body who has used slip gauges will know what is happening too much suck and not enough air drawn in through natural polishing, I think Pennine said on here once about light shot blasting to get the pitting clean and then bring it down to the pitting with the flex backng disc you have said Howard
Have had several sets of boards polished TCNs Duncan's UCNs and they all look great to start with but have found with most of them they don't scour like a board dose with natural work, too highly polished and the soil sticks, any body who has used slip gauges will know what is happening too much suck and not enough air drawn in through natural polishing, I think Pennine said on here once about light shot blasting to get the pitting clean and then bring it down to the pitting with the flex backng disc you have said Howard
The nearest you get to a polished finish is from stone free clay. It's all down to the particle size. With soil polish the surface of the board is covered with microscopic scores all running in the right direction which Spindle says, allows the correct amount of air through to prevent sticking.
One most important point when using abrasive discs is to run them across the board so that the resultant trail runs in a similar way to the direction of the soil passing over the board.
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
very true, it needs air pockets,Have had several sets of boards polished TCNs Duncan's UCNs and they all look great to start with but have found with most of them they don't scour like a board dose with natural work, too highly polished and the soil sticks, any body who has used slip gauges will know what is happening too much suck and not enough air drawn in through natural polishing, I think Pennine said on here once about light shot blasting to get the pitting clean and then bring it down to the pitting with the flex backng disc you have said Howard
,and shot blast to stop the rust is important