Ploughing today

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John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
You have no problem driving straight John,
opening with a 4 furrow was never going to be easy, I used to carve out a single back furrow with my 5 furrow conventional, then on the way back across the field I would run the disc side of the front share up the disc cut from the first run and carve out a single furrow in the opposite direction, the plough would be tilted up to the right ( as viewed from the rear ) and tilted back slightly on the top link, the 2nd furrow would deepen the middle of the opening just as it would do if opening with a 2 furrow, the 3rd furrow would turn in the 1st run of the opening plus fresh soil from underneath the 1st run at 2/3rds to 3/4 depth to make the 1st furrow of the crown with the 4th and 5th furrow making the 2nd and 3rd furrows of the crown getting deeper to full depth, with the plough still tilted up but not quite as much the plough was then pulled back across the field turning in the front furrow of the 2nd run of the opening to make the ridge with the rest of the furrows getting progressively deeper until the rear furrow was at full depth.
In my opinion this is the best option for any multi furrow conventional plough to start a plot in an arable situation


First mistake i made was when i set in for the second run, if i had set in at a slight angle, it would have held the plough over, which had swung tight on the check chains, and prevented that slight dog leg at the start of the run and i got it back over to where it needed to be

How i did it, was to take a single furrow with the rear body. Turned round, then set tractor in the furrow "the wrong way round", ie land side in the furrow,. Ive set the wheels to be 40" inside width, which then meant that the rear furrow was taking just up to the wall, until i moved it over so the point was up against the bottom heel of the furrow slice, lengthend the rh lift rod and cocked the plough over until the 3rd furrow was taking a half cut.

When i turned round at the end of the run i was quite pleased with it, but the smile soon vanished when i tried to plough it back in!!!
 

Roy Stokes

Member
Location
East Shropshire
John 1594.jpg


Now then, what does this modification do then ????
 

Roy Stokes

Member
Location
East Shropshire
View attachment 463590

For Christ sake let me keep it straight as the eyes of the Farming Forum are upon me and my reputation is at stake here ..............................:(:(

In this photo the plough appears to be crabbing badly to the left the land side at the rear appears to be bulldozing into the un-ploughed ground ? and it is not turning the 1st furrow to the correct place on the opening, if it had done the same in the opposite direction a huge valley would appear in the middle of the crown ?

It is important to initially set the front furrow width by sliding the cross shaft through the plough either way until the desired front furrow width is achieved, from there onward you can use the width handle to compensate for side land and for very small corrections, it is difficult to tell from being here on a office seat but something tells me that the cross shaft settings are incorrect or the pins on the lower link arms (tractor end) have David Brown disease and are all sloppy, Common fault with the 990 setup and very poor design from a usually much better design team than that.

One of the reasons for cross shaft modifications which some commentators on here dislike so much is to make starting, finishing and initial setup much easier
 

John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
In this photo the plough appears to be crabbing badly to the left the land side at the rear appears to be bulldozing into the un-ploughed ground ? and it is not turning the 1st furrow to the correct place on the opening, if it had done the same in the opposite direction a huge valley would appear in the middle of the crown ?

It is important to initially set the front furrow width by sliding the cross shaft through the plough either way until the desired front furrow width is achieved, from there onward you can use the width handle to compensate for side land and for very small corrections, it is difficult to tell from being here on a office seat but something tells me that the cross shaft settings are incorrect or the pins on the lower link arms (tractor end) have David Brown disease and are all sloppy, Common fault with the 990 setup and very poor design from a usually much better design team than that.

One of the reasons for cross shaft modifications which some commentators on here dislike so much is to make starting, finishing and initial setup much easier

990 has had the lift arm brackets changed to later double jaw and pin setup, so no issue there. Cross shaft is slid as far over to the land side of the plougj as it will go, tractor at 53 inch centers.

Im faced with 4 options with this plough

1, try and make it run as it is, as close to original as possible, despite much discouragement from various commentators

2, adopt the "if you cant beat them, join them". Have the plough apart again, butcher the headstock to accept a sliding cross shaft, sliding depth wheel, adjustable frogs, fit a new set of discs and have 3 different types of skim to cover all conditions

3..sell it to the man who bid me 800 quid for it on saturday, use the money to buy a nice 2f reversible

4..sell it to the man who bide 800 quid on saturday and use the money to take the other half way for a weekend break as a valentines day present.
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
View attachment 463590

For Christ sake let me keep it straight as the eyes of the Farming Forum are upon me and my reputation is at stake here ..............................:(:(
The lift rods tell the tale. The right one is almost vertical and the left is hanging way over to the left. In other words the plough is running to the left and the landside is struggling to correct this. Either your lift arms are different lengths, you have bent frog(s) or leg(s) or some part of the frame is bent or twisted. You can get a clue by careful measurement but it would be far easier if you were to use two furrows and see how it runs. You should have about 2-3" between the frame and the pin crank on the right hand side of the cross shaft. If it runs like this with two furrows you know that the fault lies in the third or fourth.
 

John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
The lift rods tell the tale. The right one is almost vertical and the left is hanging way over to the left. In other words the plough is running to the left and the landside is struggling to correct this. Either your lift arms are different lengths, you have bent frog(s) or leg(s) or some part of the frame is bent or twisted. You can get a clue by careful measurement but it would be far easier if you were to use two furrows and see how it runs. You should have about 2-3" between the frame and the pin crank on the right hand side of the cross shaft. If it runs like this with two furrows you know that the fault lies in the third or fourth.

Im guessing you missed the thread where i stripped the plough down to the last nut and bolt, sorted the frame and frogs out before putting it all back togther amd setting it up with bits of wood and a string line?

And yes, the lift arms are the same lenght, else the beet drill would not run true either

I might just sell it...im making a decent profit on it certainly
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
The lift rods tell the tale. The right one is almost vertical and the left is hanging way over to the left. In other words the plough is running to the left and the landside is struggling to correct this. Either your lift arms are different lengths, you have bent frog(s) or leg(s) or some part of the frame is bent or twisted. You can get a clue by careful measurement but it would be far easier if you were to use two furrows and see how it runs. You should have about 2-3" between the frame and the pin crank on the right hand side of the cross shaft. If it runs like this with two furrows you know that the fault lies in the third or fourth.

It is my considered opinion that discs always work better when under the beam rather than over, especially if they are seen to be upside down. Me thinks if the disc had either been down or even set correctly (if there does happen to be a finishing disc under there) then it would in all probability have counteracted the plough running to land.

Ploughing successfully is simply a matter of balancing the force to land created by the mouldboards, against the resistance sustained by the landsides, therefore getting the plough to run in equilibrium. That is if..... The tractor wheels are set correctly..........The plough is in the correct position on the cross shaft.......the discs are all (under the beam) set correctly.

Never forget that if you try to run a plough too narrow with the right hand crank too far forward, the excessive force applied to the rear landside will damage the front furrow of the next round.

When a plough is running correctly, the lower crank is just marginally forward of being straight up and down.
 

Roy Stokes

Member
Location
East Shropshire
990 has had the lift arm brackets changed to later double jaw and pin setup, so no issue there. Cross shaft is slid as far over to the land side of the plougj as it will go, tractor at 53 inch centers.

Im faced with 4 options with this plough

1, try and make it run as it is, as close to original as possible, despite much discouragement from various commentators

2, adopt the "if you cant beat them, join them". Have the plough apart again, butcher the headstock to accept a sliding cross shaft, sliding depth wheel, adjustable frogs, fit a new set of discs and have 3 different types of skim to cover all conditions

3..sell it to the man who bid me 800 quid for it on saturday, use the money to buy a nice 2f reversible

4..sell it to the man who bide 800 quid on saturday and use the money to take the other half way for a weekend break as a valentines day present.

I have a nice TS 81 reversible to come in with TCN bodies, worn but 2 lefts to replace worn and rights are easier to come by, full disc set and the original depth wheel that could be yours for £750 with no Vat, you could use the extra 50 quid on the other half and everyone's a winner ;)
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
I have a nice TS 81 reversible to come in with TCN bodies, worn but 2 lefts to replace worn and rights are easier to come by, full disc set and the original depth wheel that could be yours for £750 with no Vat, you could use the extra 50 quid on the other half and everyone's a winner ;)

Know where there's a set of golf clubs for £150. Might be a better option and has the potential to put you £650 up!:D:D:D
 

John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
It is my considered opinion that discs always work better when under the beam rather than over, especially if they are seen to be upside down. Me thinks if the disc had either been down or even set correctly (if there does happen to be a finishing disc under there) then it would in all probability have counteracted the plough running to land.

Ploughing successfully is simply a matter of balancing the force to land created by the mouldboards, against the resistance sustained by the landsides, therefore getting the plough to run in equilibrium. That is if..... The tractor wheels are set correctly..........The plough is in the correct position on the cross shaft.......the discs are all (under the beam) set correctly.

Never forget that if you try to run a plough too narrow with the right hand crank too far forward, the excessive force applied to the rear landside will damage the front furrow of the next round.

When a plough is running correctly, the lower crank is just marginally forward of being straight up and down.


Its my opinion that the best plough that day had no discs, no skims, and wasnt even bright

it was a fergy 2f on semi digger boards, with trash boards on top, and was making as good, if not better job that a lot of the "experts"
 

John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
All very well if you know what your doing but you could have done all that and got it wrong ?


No, i know for a fact the frame and frogs are bang on, to within a few mm. I nearly wore a brand new tape measure out setting it up. When you string the points they are spot on, lay wood across the tails of the boards, spot on again. Lay wood against the landslides, it all tallys up to 10 inch furrows. The above info taken from your very own website.

it may be the cross shaft is too far over, as i said, its fully over to the land side, it maybe wheel settings, even though i did ask about those before, and was advised on here to narrow it up a notch to minimum track setting, which it now is
 
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