Post hole size for cattle shed gate posts?

Forever Fendt

Member
Location
Derbyshire
Cattle need to feed along front feed barriers/troughs, so can't have a gate fastened back to the feed barriers, unless made that gate so it matched the feed barrier and cattle put heads through feed barrier and gate simultaneously.
have gates with adjustable eyes each end and use walking sticks through plates welded on post ,on the end you frequently open have nylock nut and leave eye floating and short pins so it always fits and if you want to swing gate other way you can
 

Grass And Grain

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Yorks
Why do they need a ring feeder?
Fair question.

Use bales. Need front feed barriers to hinge to muck out, so really want troughs hung off the barriers. Find it easier to drop bales in a ring than silage in troughs, hyped out then needs picking up, and need another tractor tied up on round bale unwinder. And I want to feed cake out along troughs with auger bucket, so don't want to be wriggling around bales.

Personal preference, but I find easier to use a ring. Totally get why someone else,.or indeed most people) would choose to feed silage along the feed fence.
 

Forever Fendt

Member
Location
Derbyshire
Exactly the plan (y)
you would be better with self locking yokes and not barriers that calves can get out of , Do TB whilst there locked in and clean back section out as well
 

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e3120

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Northumberland
17' is a fair old gate in a shed. When a few lean on it, it's easy to spring open. The chain and shackle to overcome this are not so nice for frequent (or very infrequent) use. I'm sure you're ahead of me.
 

Grass And Grain

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Yorks
you would be better with self locking yokes and not barriers that calves can get out of , Do TB whilst there locked in and clean back section out as well
Now those photos have helped me considerably. I hadn't even considered welding a collar on to the post, to set depth post drops into the socket (y)
 

Humble Village Farmer

Member
BASE UK Member
Location
Essex
Can't you get the ringfeeder close enough to drop a bale in over the gate at the end or ends of the shed? Having to go in and move them every time you put a bale in is going to add time and inconvenience.

If you put a ringfeeder at each end you could use the gates to exclude the cattle from one half at a time for bedding up. ( Or will you be blowing the straw in?)
 

Lincs Lass

Member
Location
north lincs
would the slurry not eat those steel posts within 5 years

Would a removeable concrete post not do the same job
Once it's cracked ,,that's the end of it just like garden fence posts.
Water gets into the rebar, it rusts,expands and blows the concrete apart plus it would literally weigh a ton
 

Ffermer Bach

Member
Livestock Farmer
Make a socket out of 4mm wall and it will never rot out ,if you cant get a any box thats slightly bigger than the post,,knock them up from old angle ,,make them to any size you want then .
As I said before ,,make a cover plate that will drop in the post hole slightly recessed into the floor ,,then when you muck out ,,you wont snag it

So only one gate of the post, still go bigger ,,you can hang the first gate of the stanchion to get the width for the middle post and then the second gate only needs a bracket to latch into ,,
that is a very good idea to make a square that is 1/4" deep round the top of the post, so when mucking out the grab doesn't snag the post cap, wish I had thought of that when I put in sockets for gate posts in the calving pens. 🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆. I went to buy new caps, then when I found out the cost, I put them back and straightened out the bent ones!
 

Lincs Lass

Member
Location
north lincs
that is a very good idea to make a square that is 1/4" deep round the top of the post, so when mucking out the grab doesn't snag the post cap, wish I had thought of that when I put in sockets for gate posts in the calving pens. 🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆. I went to buy new caps, then when I found out the cost, I put them back and straightened out the bent ones!
We had a big rsj in the middle of the grainstore door to support the louvre timbers ,,once the post came out ,,droped a cover plate in and what bit muck that got in the hole could be hovered out , same method worked in the sheep pens but they were only 50mm tubing posts , after lambing and the shed emptied ,,pull the posts out,pop in the cover and muck out with no obstacles poking up
 

Forever Fendt

Member
Location
Derbyshire
Now those photos have helped me considerably. I hadn't even considered welding a collar on to the post, to set depth post drops into the socket (y)
there is one at the floor level so it’s flush to top of socket and one 40 mm clear from bottom , they take up the difference between inside of socket and post , the bottom one set up so it doesn’t foul on anything in the bottom corners and they come out dead easy as not binding all the way up
 

Grass And Grain

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Yorks
Can't you get the ringfeeder close enough to drop a bale in over the gate at the end or ends of the shed? Having to go in and move them every time you put a bale in is going to add time and inconvenience.

If you put a ringfeeder at each end you could use the gates to exclude the cattle from one half at a time for bedding up. ( Or will you be blowing the straw in?)
Blowing it in.

Diagram didn't really show whole shed. Several pens along the shed, so will really need to open barriers and go in to fill the rings. Did consider a stone track outside, along back side of shed, with a silage bunker of some sort, then fill without going in. That might happen yet, but in meantime, I'll use rings.
would the slurry not eat those steel posts within 5 years

Would a removeable concrete post not do the same job
Would they crack if bumped by telehandler?

there is one at the floor level so it’s flush to top of socket and one 40 mm clear from bottom , they take up the difference between inside of socket and post , the bottom one set up so it doesn’t foul on anything in the bottom corners and they come out dead easy as not binding all the way up
Oh, I see, didn't notice one towards bottom of post.
 

puppet

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
sw scotland
Sorry I don't understand your set up but all this opening gates, pushing cattle up and ring feeder in a bedded area seems a lot of work.
Hinge the gates to outside posts, meet in the middle post which is in a socket so can be removed to muck out the whole shed without worrying what you are going to hit.
Feed the bales outside the feed barriers without getting off the tractor
 

Grass And Grain

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Yorks
Sorry I don't understand your set up but all this opening gates, pushing cattle up and ring feeder in a bedded area seems a lot of work.
Hinge the gates to outside posts, meet in the middle post which is in a socket so can be removed to muck out the whole shed without worrying what you are going to hit.
Feed the bales outside the feed barriers without getting off the tractor
Personal choice really. I'd prefer to open a couple of gates and then have ease of dropping whole bale in a ring and forget about it, than using a bale unroller, or bale shear, or placing bales in front of feed barriers to then have to push them up.

Added to that, I want to be able to run down the feed fence with an auger bucket to feed the cake 2 × daily, without having to negotiate bales of silage. I can see how it works for many people, but I've also to muck out by opening the front feed barriers, so easier for me of they're hinged with hanging troughs (rather than barriers bolted in place) - troughs don't work well with baled silage imho.

As I say, personal preference. Defo some negatives to using rings inside a shed. I've a 5 month old heifer which has taken to climbing inside one of the rings :mad:
 

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