Pottinger Europrofi 4000/4500

[james ds]

the fingers are dropped into slots cut in to the rotor, cracks spread from one slot to the next until it snaps or implodes. what do you mean by wore its rotor through?

I never seen that happening or being the cause of a rotor to go , check the rotor on your wagon down between the fingers , see if you can see a dip worn in the steel from friction between the fingers , it would be the shape of the back of your finger nail . A friend of mine who has a gigga2 has built his up with weld the whole way around , it's a lot of welding . But it has extended the lifespan of the rotor .

 

[Rob Holmes]

A Lely Tigo and Malone here,

http://www.jablooragriservices.co.uk/catalogue/farm-machinery/forage-harvesters-wagons

Not sure if they fit your requirements

 

[mtx.jag]

@mtx.jag Have found a Torro 4500 not far away from me in Northern Ireland, would a torro be a lot harder to drive than a europrofi? Tractor available is 145hp Massey 6615 with no CCLS so would have to have a spool pumping too, would it be able for it? Wouldn't want it to be on its knees, would rather the tractor was well capable

As James said,it be fine,we had the Euro profi behind 135HP on the flat and it didn't know it was there..
If it was my money,would be the Torro45

 

[Aircooled]

You will work it no problem , the more power the mower output , but I've often had a 130 hp tractor on the torro 5100 and it got away , you just wouldn't pack as much of a load in , keep the knives sharp and it will save a lot of power , that wagon is good value , just check the rotor for any damage .

The torro is impressive but what about the knivebank in the early ones. Does the heavier/jumbo type knivebank fit these when replacement time comes? Thanks

 

[james ds]

The torro is impressive but what about the knivebank in the early ones. Does the heavier/jumbo type knivebank fit these when replacement time comes? Thanks

Yes straight on with no modifications , the new knife is closer to the rotor and chops a lot better as well.

 

[Carrot Kid]

https://www.donedeal.ie/view/14993800
Pottinger Torro Silage Wagon

Good wagon that! Well looked after.

 

[jack_c]

As James said,it be fine,we had the Euro profi behind 135HP on the flat and it didn't know it was there..
If it was my money,would be the Torro45

Is the torro not a harder drive than the europrofi? Or is it just heavier?

 

[jack_c]

Good wagon that! Well looked after.

That wagon in particular? Do you know that machine?

 

[james ds]

Is the torro not a harder drive than the europrofi? Or is it just heavier?

It has more knives and chops better so it probably takes more driving , you can always take out a few knives to ease the pressure , there is no comparison in the two machines the torro is gearbox driven while the europrofi ifs chain driven . The torro is built as a contractor machine the europrofi is more of a farmers machine .

 

[mtx.jag]

Is the torro not a harder drive than the europrofi? Or is it just heavier?

To the best of my knowledge it's a heavier machine with more steel,would be harder to drive due to more knifes and better chop..
The Euro profi we had on demo was awful stuff to push about in the clamp,the Torro51 I used to buckrake against was completely different stuff,we used to do 2500ac/year with the one machine

 

[marco]

I never seen that happening or being the cause of a rotor to go , check the rotor on your wagon down between the fingers , see if you can see a dip worn in the steel from friction between the fingers , it would be the shape of the back of your finger nail . A friend of mine who has a gigga2 has built his up with weld the whole way around , it's a lot of welding . But it has extended the lifespan of the rotor .

Thats good advice for all wagons, taking in foreign objects is probably the cause of alot of problems for all wagons. To the op, dont be afraid to get a bigger wagon, most can be adjusted from the control box how much it packs before it moves the floor. is it hard to retrofit load sensing to your tractor?

 

[kill]

Thats good advice for all wagons, taking in foreign objects is probably the cause of alot of problems for all wagons. To the op, dont be afraid to get a bigger wagon, most can be adjusted from the control box how much it packs before it moves the floor. is it hard to retrofit load sensing to your tractor?

And running a wagon in manual override with a big tractor mushing grass with the chopping rotor when wagon is full and grass has no where to go apart from mushing it black also breaks chopping rotors

 

[jack_c]

Thats good advice for all wagons, taking in foreign objects is probably the cause of alot of problems for all wagons. To the op, dont be afraid to get a bigger wagon, most can be adjusted from the control box how much it packs before it moves the floor. is it hard to retrofit load sensing to your tractor?

I was think that could just adjust her so she wasn't packing as tight, especially if it's hilly.

Our tractor is open centre so I don't think load sensing applies? Someone can correct me if I'm wrong? I'm under the impression that need a variable displacement pump for load sensing? Read somewhere though that a front loader is supplied via a power beyond system on a standard tractor?

 

[jack_c]

Thanks for all the replies so far!

 

[jack_c]

Possibly going to look at the torro at some stage this week,
What all would I need to be looking at/checking? And what's the best way to check these?

 

[mtx.jag]

Possibly going to look at the torro at some stage this week,
What all would I need to be looking at/checking? And what's the best way to check these?

Knife bank,blade condition,pi K up tines,steering axle,floor chain and slats etc..

 

[jack_c]

Knife bank,blade condition,pi K up tines,steering axle,floor chain and slats etc..

She's got a full new set of knives, then check the rotor and knife bank for wear. How loose is too loose on a floor chain?
Will ask to see her running too

 

[james ds]

Check the rotor for damage , you need to turn it to see it all , , check the pickup reel where the bands are bolted on some times if it wasn't kept cleaned down these can be rusted away , on the knife bank take out the knives and check under the front of the knife holder , this can wear and it will lose knives , we have modified our own to solve the problem . Clean out under where the front of the knife is hooked in , if the holders are worn the knife will have dropped down and will be wearing the box iron out, when you see it you will understand better . Check if the floor chain tensioner is fully adjusted out .

 

[james ds]

She's got a full new set of knives, then check the rotor and knife bank for wear. How loose is too loose on a floor chain?
Will ask to see her running too

To check the floor tension of the chains , look in beside the knife bank and where the chains slide on a timber rail , where the rail ends the chain should not be sitting down on the rail , we tension them up until the chain is lifted off the rail.

 

[jack_c]

To check the floor tension of the chains , look in beside the knife bank and where the chains slide on a timber rail , where the rail ends the chain should not be sitting down on the rail , we tension them up until the chain is lifted off the rail.

Is the chain tensioner located here too?
Thanks for the points to check too